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Old 26 March 2015, 07:54   #41
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Originally Posted by steve-ribnet View Post
Hi
I would just make sure that 3rd hose was clear - remove pipe from engine and pump first and blow through to remove fuel or oil residue from the pipe
Turning the engine over will clear excess fuel from crankcase if it has leaked in from this pulse line.
If you have the option to test the motor after rebuilding just the pump, it will give you an indication whether the problems did really arise due to pump problem, and what condition the carbs are in
Rebuilding carbs is quite straightforward- lots of posts on here about doing it. Just be thorough and meticulously clean - carb cleaner, compressed air and ideally ultrasonic cleaner too.
All the gaskets hear ,nearly the price of a new engine lol.Will run it up in the tub after pump rebuild see if its made a difference ,gasket sets for carbs ,plenty of carb cleaner ,and reed box gaskets hopping will be running ok after this.
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Old 26 March 2015, 07:57   #42
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Just a heads up :

Debris can wear out your jets...high velocity fragments will slowly erode the needles and jets, effectively stepping up your jet sizes, causing running problems.

Few people realize how important a good 10 micron filter / separator really is. Better too much filtration than too little!

(I'm running a 2 micron + vac gauge on my ETEC)
Have often thought of a 8mm fuel filter in the tank lead ,after the bulb ,inline fuel filters are quite cheap maybe replace twice a year ,any thoughts on that.
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Old 26 March 2015, 07:59   #43
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Please tell me you have got the full pump rebuild kit including the gaskets, diaphragms, non- return valve flaps and stems
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Old 26 March 2015, 08:11   #44
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Have often thought of a 8mm fuel filter in the tank lead ,after the bulb ,inline fuel filters are quite cheap maybe replace twice a year ,any thoughts on that.
Your main engine water separating fuel filter should be sufficient. The common setup is to have one of these bolted to the transom by the engine
Quicksilver Fuel Filter / Water Separating Kit - Mercury - Mariner - Outboard | eBay

A little off-topic now:
You can put a quick release fitting on the INLET side of one these blocks, then a matching fitting on your inboard tank line (if you have one) and also on your portable backup tank (if you carry one). This way, even if you switch from main tank to portable reserve tank, it will go through the filter.

I have a fuel flow meter on my fuel line right as it exits the inboard tank. This requires a filter before it in the fuel line, for which I use a small inline filter . This is much coarser than the main filter - 20 micron - compared with the 10 micron main filter.

I think these small filters are a little fragile just to have flapping in the breeze (you can get plastic or glass ones), but I have clamped this one securely to a bulkhead inside the console by the inboard tank.

So long as you have the means to bypass/replace these filters at sea in case they become choked...
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Old 26 March 2015, 08:44   #45
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Originally Posted by steve-ribnet View Post
Please tell me you have got the full pump rebuild kit including the gaskets, diaphragms, non- return valve flaps and stems
Yes Steve everything there its A42909A 4 Diaphragm kit ,inc gaskets springs ,valve flaps and stems.
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Old 26 March 2015, 08:52   #46
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Originally Posted by steve-ribnet View Post
Your main engine water separating fuel filter should be sufficient. The common setup is to have one of these bolted to the transom by the engine
Quicksilver Fuel Filter / Water Separating Kit - Mercury - Mariner - Outboard | eBay

A little off-topic now:
You can put a quick release fitting on the INLET side of one these blocks, then a matching fitting on your inboard tank line (if you have one) and also on your portable backup tank (if you carry one). This way, even if you switch from main tank to portable reserve tank, it will go through the filter.

I have a fuel flow meter on my fuel line right as it exits the inboard tank. This requires a filter before it in the fuel line, for which I use a small inline filter . This is much coarser than the main filter - 20 micron - compared with the 10 micron main filter.

I think these small filters are a little fragile just to have flapping in the breeze (you can get plastic or glass ones), but I have clamped this one securely to a bulkhead inside the console by the inboard tank.

So long as you have the means to bypass/replace these filters at sea in case they become choked...
We don't have a water separator filter only the in line filter on the engine ,we need to look at something like that as no filter before fuel pump probably some of my problem .Was thinking before you posted that ,maybe an inline filter in the fuel line from tank that could be changed at sea if need be.
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Old 26 March 2015, 10:52   #47
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Have often thought of a 8mm fuel filter in the tank lead ,after the bulb ,inline fuel filters are quite cheap maybe replace twice a year ,any thoughts on that.
Inline fuel filters are typically 250 micron, or 100 micron...they only filter out HUGE debris.

Fine grit is the worrisome part. Over time, it acts like a mini-sandblaster, eroding any soft metal orifices, and causing premature ring wear.

I would HIGHLY recommend installing a spin-on 10 micron filter / separator. You can get them as a package for less than 50 quid. They're easy to change in the field too if you carry a spare... it goes on like a car oil filter. Just make sure you have some filter pliers handy.

What Steve linked is perfect. You'll need to add some 1/4 NPT barbs.

As an added bonus, it is also a water separator. I know you guys across the pond don't have ethanol-free fuel, which sucks, since ethanol absorbs water out of the air. Inline filters don't remove water.
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Old 26 March 2015, 11:28   #48
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Originally Posted by office888 View Post
Inline fuel filters are typically 250 micron, or 100 micron...they only filter out HUGE debris.

Fine grit is the worrisome part. Over time, it acts like a mini-sandblaster, eroding any soft metal orifices, and causing premature ring wear.

I would HIGHLY recommend installing a spin-on 10 micron filter / separator. You can get them as a package for less than 50 quid. They're easy to change in the field too if you carry a spare... it goes on like a car oil filter. Just make sure you have some filter pliers handy.

What Steve linked is perfect. You'll need to add some 1/4 NPT barbs.

As an added bonus, it is also a water separator. I know you guys across the pond don't have ethanol-free fuel, which sucks, since ethanol absorbs water out of the air. Inline filters don't remove water.
I take it by barbs you mean for connecting the fuel lines to ,do they need to be in brass or plastic ,and can they be bought on ebay .Thanks Bill
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Old 26 March 2015, 11:38   #49
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I take it by barbs you mean for connecting the fuel lines to ,do they need to be in brass or plastic ,and can they be bought on ebay .Thanks Bill
They're typically brass or aluminum.

The longer ones are better so you can make your fuel lines NMMA / ABYC approved by putting their specified two clamps on them. It is also recommend to use a liquid paste sealant on the threads instead of teflon tape, which can potentially put debris in to the fuel...plus, teflon tape is not technically compatible with gasoline.

You can definitely ebay them.

You'll need a barb that is probably 5/16 inch with 1/4 NPT male thread on it, since it sounds like you're running an 8mm fuel line? 5/16 in = 7.9mm...close enough.
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Old 26 March 2015, 13:23   #50
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What Steve linked is perfect. You'll need to add some 1/4 NPT barbs.
Ignore this!

Made a mistake...these filters take a 3/8 NPT male, not 1/4.
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