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Old 17 March 2012, 06:11   #11
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Not many people around who know what Stilsons are any more, you might know them as a Pipe wrench. Their best trick is that the harder you pull the tighter they get, as long as you have them the right way round.

Grinding the head off sounds like a good idea as at least the remaining shaft of the bolt can be dealt with on the bench, or the leg even taken somewhere with better facilities to get it out. My prefered method of removing a broken bolt shaft is to weld a big nut to it, as the heat also helps the process.
HOWEVER - beware the bolt being corroded so hard into the hole that it still won't allow you to remove the leg once the head is off.

My next step in your situation would be to try the stilsons, maybe on a socket if you can still get one to grip, then if that doesn't work I'd turn a big nut down in the lathe to half height, slip it over the head and weld it on through the hole, but I'd then be worried about breaking the bolt off before it releases.

Like above, it's a shame you're not closer as it's the sort of thing I deal with a lot in my home workshop whilst 'mucking about with old stuff'.

Nasher.
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Old 17 March 2012, 06:59   #12
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Originally Posted by lockieboi View Post
Stilsons?
I did try a socket and tried to turn it with a pair of Grips but it's to tight and the grips just slip.

Didn't realise they need a spanner not a ratchet they seem like a good idea.
See photos, do not confuse the 2, one is for gripping pipes & the other is err well not for gripping pipes
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Old 17 March 2012, 07:03   #13
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two things to remeber,1/ if you damage the paint make sure you repair it to keep corrosion at bay, and 2/when you reassemble put marine grease on the threads not too much in case you hydraulic the bolt , dont forget any casing mating surfaces and you wont have this prolem next time , you could allso try heating the casing but dont scorch the paintbut good luck!
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Old 17 March 2012, 07:26   #14
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See photos, do not confuse the 2, one is for gripping pipes & the other is err well not for gripping pipes
Plenty time on your hands I see PD
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Old 17 March 2012, 07:36   #15
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Plenty time on your hands I see PD
Slow day at the ranch. Boat's in for service, so no toys to play with. Coing Geocaching this aft when we've solved a few puzzles. Currently researching Formula 1 drivers.
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Old 17 March 2012, 08:39   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lockieboi View Post
I am trying to remove the leg on my mercury 9.9 2 stroke to inspect/replace the impeller.
One of the bolts is not coming out!
There all thread locked on and I can undo 2 of the three as the third is rounded of.
I've tried spanner, pliers, mole grips and it wont budge.
A socket will grip it but I can't get the drive part on the socket as there isn't enough room.
So my question is, any ideas of how to get it off?
And also where to get replacements bolts?
Heather Mills???
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Old 17 March 2012, 10:43   #17
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You could always try filing the flats down very carefully until you can get the next-size-down spanner on it. I'd use a good fitting ring spanner and tap it to try and break free from the corrosion.
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Old 17 March 2012, 12:17   #18
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Progress!
Bought a smaller ratchet and cut down a socket to fit and it's out!
Next step: removing the gear link from under the hood.
I will as that I am a complete novice and this is the first OB that I have ever tinkered with.
I've taken some pics of where the linkage is attached to but I cant see any bolts that remove or anything obvious.
Also I now want to replace these bolts, do they need to be anything specialised or just stainless bolts.
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Old 17 March 2012, 17:01   #19
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The gear linkage would normally split half way down the leg so you can remove the lower unit. Look for a small pin or threaded adjuster.

Don't use stainless bolts, as Stainless and Aluminium like to get quite attached to each other in a salty environment.

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Old 18 March 2012, 06:24   #20
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Don't use stainless bolts, as Stainless and Aluminium like to get quite attached to each other in a salty environment.
Hmmm. A bit of non-copper anti-seize goes a long way here. Stainless and aluminum alone, yes, I agree, is a recipe for eventual corrosion. Put some anti-seize between them though and you're good to go. That's how Yam come from the factory.

You aren't seriously suggesting carbon steel bolts for a submerged seawater application, are you? That bolt wouldn't last a week.

jky
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