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05 January 2011, 18:43
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Herne Bay
Boat name: Red May
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp Honda BF4/
MMSI: yep got one
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 514
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How to spray an outboard
Hello once again,
I'm just about to embark on a minor project to fill the holes left by some doel fins on the outboard, however once filled i would like to spray it back to black.
I dont want it looking like a DIY botch job when done or it flaking off after a season, so am after any advice in what preperation i should do.
Ie, do i need to key the area to be sprayed first, use primer and then some mercury black paint, or just spray on top without any keying.
What level of key do i need, how many coats of sprays etc.
Many thanks
Matt.
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05 January 2011, 19:13
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mighty Penryn
Boat name: Little Joe.
Make: Avon Searider
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF50
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,047
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I did this job on our BF50.
1st fill the holes with JB Weld, then a wipe of car body filler to flat back with some fine paper and a block. If the gearbox doesn't require painting, you could just paint the cav plate. Mask to the joint between the lower and mid-section, flat with some 800 wet and dry, clean up with a tack rag. If you've got bare ally showing through, perhaps use an acid etch primer, if not, regular primer will do. When the primer is dry, hit with 2/3 coats of colour and a couple of clear lacquer. Apply lacquer whilst the paint is still tacky.
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05 January 2011, 19:18
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Herne Bay
Boat name: Red May
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp Honda BF4/
MMSI: yep got one
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
I did this job on our BF50.
1st fill the holes with JB Weld, then a wipe of car body filler to flat back with some fine paper and a block. If the gearbox doesn't require painting, you could just paint the cav plate. Mask to the joint between the lower and mid-section, flat with some 800 wet and dry, clean up with a tack rag. If you've got bare ally showing through, perhaps use an acid etch primer, if not, regular primer will do. When the primer is dry, hit with 2/3 coats of colour and a couple of clear lacquer. Apply lacquer whilst the paint is still tacky. 
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Cheers Mollers,
I wasnt sure where to start at all so this is perfect.
Matt.
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07 January 2011, 07:22
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#4
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Undecided....
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: N/A
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,733
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Good results can also be had using smoothrite warmed up in some hot water.
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07 January 2011, 12:11
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jizm
Good results can also be had using smoothrite warmed up in some hot water.
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you mean like this
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07 January 2011, 12:44
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Herne Bay
Boat name: Red May
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp Honda BF4/
MMSI: yep got one
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy B
you mean like this 
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If i can get a finish like that i'll be bloody happy.
I'm gonna try the cav plate first and if all goes well I may do the rest of the leg.
Cheers.
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15 January 2011, 12:15
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Herne Bay
Boat name: Red May
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp Honda BF4/
MMSI: yep got one
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 514
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Bit more advice please for 1st timer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers
I did this job on our BF50.
1st fill the holes with JB Weld, then a wipe of car body filler to flat back with some fine paper and a block. If the gearbox doesn't require painting, you could just paint the cav plate. Mask to the joint between the lower and mid-section, flat with some 800 wet and dry, clean up with a tack rag. If you've got bare ally showing through, perhaps use an acid etch primer, if not, regular primer will do. When the primer is dry, hit with 2/3 coats of colour and a couple of clear lacquer. Apply lacquer whilst the paint is still tacky. 
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Mollers, (or any one that can help).
I have filled and sanded ready for painting. This may well be a stupid question but do i need to prime the enitre area i'm going to paint or just the bit where the repair was done. I;m thinking of doing the entire gearbox area where it could do with a overhaul and didnt know whether it should all be primed 1st or just hit with the top coat?
Thanks
Matt.
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15 January 2011, 12:31
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#8
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Cairns
Boat name: KAHUNAS
Make: Zodiac
Length: under 3m
Engine: 30 Tohatsu
MMSI: wft is a dsc mmsi ?
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 82
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I used a self etch primer, and then a top coat, the better the prep the better the results i got. If i didn't prepare an area enough then it was obvious as soon as the primer went down.
Self etch primer will stick to just about anything, but a good rub down of the whole area first will ensure you don't have any problems when you go to apply the primer. Also be careful some primers have a chemical process that takes a certain amount of time to completely cure, longer than just being dry. If you apply top coat before the process has finished you can end up with flaking.
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15 January 2011, 12:35
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Herne Bay
Boat name: Red May
Make: Zodiac
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40hp Honda BF4/
MMSI: yep got one
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bus_Boy
I used a self etch primer, and then a top coat, the better the prep the better the results i got. If i didn't prepare an area enough then it was obvious as soon as the primer went down.
Self etch primer will stick to just about anything, but a good run down of the area first will ensure you don't have any problems when you go to apply the primer. Also be careful some primers have a chemical process that takes a certain amount of time to completely cure, longer than just being dry. If you apply top coat before the process has finished you can end up with flaking.
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Ok, so primer it all before top coating is the way forward then. I have spent ages making sure its all sanded correctly so didnt want to make an error when it came to painting. Thanks very much.
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15 January 2011, 12:37
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#10
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Member
Country: Australia
Town: Cairns
Boat name: KAHUNAS
Make: Zodiac
Length: under 3m
Engine: 30 Tohatsu
MMSI: wft is a dsc mmsi ?
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 82
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The lower unit was the first area i did, and you can see in the picture the finish gets better as i go up lol. One day i'll drop the lower unit and do it again.
You will know straight when you begin applying the primer if you haven't prepped the area well enough.
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