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Old 05 January 2011, 18:43   #1
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How to spray an outboard

Hello once again,

I'm just about to embark on a minor project to fill the holes left by some doel fins on the outboard, however once filled i would like to spray it back to black.

I dont want it looking like a DIY botch job when done or it flaking off after a season, so am after any advice in what preperation i should do.

Ie, do i need to key the area to be sprayed first, use primer and then some mercury black paint, or just spray on top without any keying.

What level of key do i need, how many coats of sprays etc.

Many thanks

Matt.
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Old 05 January 2011, 19:13   #2
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I did this job on our BF50.
1st fill the holes with JB Weld, then a wipe of car body filler to flat back with some fine paper and a block. If the gearbox doesn't require painting, you could just paint the cav plate. Mask to the joint between the lower and mid-section, flat with some 800 wet and dry, clean up with a tack rag. If you've got bare ally showing through, perhaps use an acid etch primer, if not, regular primer will do. When the primer is dry, hit with 2/3 coats of colour and a couple of clear lacquer. Apply lacquer whilst the paint is still tacky.
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Old 05 January 2011, 19:18   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
I did this job on our BF50.
1st fill the holes with JB Weld, then a wipe of car body filler to flat back with some fine paper and a block. If the gearbox doesn't require painting, you could just paint the cav plate. Mask to the joint between the lower and mid-section, flat with some 800 wet and dry, clean up with a tack rag. If you've got bare ally showing through, perhaps use an acid etch primer, if not, regular primer will do. When the primer is dry, hit with 2/3 coats of colour and a couple of clear lacquer. Apply lacquer whilst the paint is still tacky.
Cheers Mollers,

I wasnt sure where to start at all so this is perfect.

Matt.
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Old 07 January 2011, 07:22   #4
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Good results can also be had using smoothrite warmed up in some hot water.
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Old 07 January 2011, 12:11   #5
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Good results can also be had using smoothrite warmed up in some hot water.
you mean like this
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Old 07 January 2011, 12:44   #6
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you mean like this
If i can get a finish like that i'll be bloody happy.

I'm gonna try the cav plate first and if all goes well I may do the rest of the leg.

Cheers.
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Old 15 January 2011, 12:15   #7
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Bit more advice please for 1st timer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollers View Post
I did this job on our BF50.
1st fill the holes with JB Weld, then a wipe of car body filler to flat back with some fine paper and a block. If the gearbox doesn't require painting, you could just paint the cav plate. Mask to the joint between the lower and mid-section, flat with some 800 wet and dry, clean up with a tack rag. If you've got bare ally showing through, perhaps use an acid etch primer, if not, regular primer will do. When the primer is dry, hit with 2/3 coats of colour and a couple of clear lacquer. Apply lacquer whilst the paint is still tacky.
Mollers, (or any one that can help).

I have filled and sanded ready for painting. This may well be a stupid question but do i need to prime the enitre area i'm going to paint or just the bit where the repair was done. I;m thinking of doing the entire gearbox area where it could do with a overhaul and didnt know whether it should all be primed 1st or just hit with the top coat?

Thanks

Matt.
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Old 15 January 2011, 12:31   #8
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I used a self etch primer, and then a top coat, the better the prep the better the results i got. If i didn't prepare an area enough then it was obvious as soon as the primer went down.

Self etch primer will stick to just about anything, but a good rub down of the whole area first will ensure you don't have any problems when you go to apply the primer. Also be careful some primers have a chemical process that takes a certain amount of time to completely cure, longer than just being dry. If you apply top coat before the process has finished you can end up with flaking.
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Old 15 January 2011, 12:35   #9
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Quote:
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I used a self etch primer, and then a top coat, the better the prep the better the results i got. If i didn't prepare an area enough then it was obvious as soon as the primer went down.

Self etch primer will stick to just about anything, but a good run down of the area first will ensure you don't have any problems when you go to apply the primer. Also be careful some primers have a chemical process that takes a certain amount of time to completely cure, longer than just being dry. If you apply top coat before the process has finished you can end up with flaking.
Ok, so primer it all before top coating is the way forward then. I have spent ages making sure its all sanded correctly so didnt want to make an error when it came to painting. Thanks very much.
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Old 15 January 2011, 12:37   #10
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The lower unit was the first area i did, and you can see in the picture the finish gets better as i go up lol. One day i'll drop the lower unit and do it again.

You will know straight when you begin applying the primer if you haven't prepped the area well enough.
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Old 15 January 2011, 12:39   #11
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The lower unit was the first area i did, and you can see in the picture the finish gets better as i go up lol. One day i'll drop the lower unit and do it again.

You will know straight when you begin applying the primer haven't prepped the area well enough. What sort of primer are you using?
I have just got an ordinary hammerite anti rust primer smooth finish. Not sure if thats any good or should go for an etch primer that mollers suggested.
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Old 15 January 2011, 13:06   #12
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If you've got any bare aluminium then you must use etch primer, better to use it anyway.
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Old 15 January 2011, 13:25   #13
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If you've got any bare aluminium then you must use etch primer, better to use it anyway.
Yup, i have bare aluminium so will get myself some ecth primer to use instead. Can i get this from anywhere of is it more specialised?
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Old 15 January 2011, 13:31   #14
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I'd guess you'd probably need to go to a proper paint supplier, don't think the likes of B&Q will have it
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Old 15 January 2011, 13:35   #15
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I'd guess you'd probably need to go to a proper paint supplier, don't think the likes of B&Q will have it
Will hunt some down, i didnt have a clue having never heard of it before Thanks for your help, now just to keep my fingers crossed it all goes according to plan.
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Old 15 January 2011, 13:41   #16
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Is that its actual hp ? Kts at WOT Pls

*edit* just seen the other thread ... OMGG !! lol
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Old 15 January 2011, 13:46   #17
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Is that its actual hp ? Kts at WOT Pls
I'm thinking so, not my set up, but thats gonna fly somewhat. My old sib with a 9.9 flew along, so a 30...... have a look at http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37876
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Old 15 January 2011, 13:50   #18
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just seen the other thread ... OMGG !! lol
Yup, thats what i thought, now thats going to take some balls of steel.
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Old 15 January 2011, 14:51   #19
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Is that its actual hp ? Kts at WOT Pls
I'll let you know once the damn thing starts
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Old 15 January 2011, 14:57   #20
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I'll let you know once the damn thing starts
Well once it goes ... what ever you do .. hold the F**k on ......
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