Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 23 June 2006, 10:10   #11
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
Just spoken to the great people at Glasplies - they say a special resin should ideally be used BUT there are plenty of people who have used just normal resin for car and motorbike tanks and they have lasted years with no probs at all.

One advantage of fibreglass is they are more flexible so they are less prone to cracking than stainless or ali.
__________________

__________________
codprawn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 June 2006, 10:15   #12
RIBnet supporter
 
Erin's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,830
So how do you actually make a sealed tank then. How do you remove the mould or plug?

Would I be foolish unscrewing the top plate and re-sealing it without emptying and purging the tank?
__________________
Erin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 June 2006, 10:23   #13
Member
 
Country: Canada
Town: Newfoundland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2000
Posts: 2,097
Glass or Stainless/Alu?

Erin,

What is your tank made from? (Sorry if I have missed this in the thread). I had fibreglass fueltank failure on the very first outing with a brand new BWM back in 98. A good few litres of fuel in the bilge and very fortunate that the whole lot didnt go up in smoke! We ended up with the manufacturer replacing the tank with a stainless one which of course involve cutting a bloody great hole in the deck and resealing. Such are the joys of underdeck tanks.

I'm guessing with Prosport changing hands you dont have comeback to the manufacturer so if it is the tank then thats not the best news. I suggest you check and recheck every connection/breather. I also had a fuel leak on Blue Ice shortly after taking ownership which turned out to be a missing gasket from the fuel sender/inspection plate (removed by my engineer for reasons that escape my memory now). This leak only presented itself when the tank was filled to the brim when a combination of pressure and movement caused the leak. That was easily fixed (so dont panic Richard B ) by replacing the gaskets (actually a double gasket set).

You need to isolate whether your problem is the tank itself or connections/breathers. If it is then rectification is unfortunately involve dramatic surgery to your RIB. I'd suggest getting a good boatbuilder/rib specialist involved at this point. As to the merits of fibreglass vs stainless I think this has been debated before and often and I think will come down to your own preference at the end of the day.
__________________
Out of the fog......
Alan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 June 2006, 10:32   #14
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Over here
Boat name: S.S. Nobstick
Make: Three Wise Monkeys
Length: 3m +
Engine: 44lbs of thrust....
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,115
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan
..... As to the merits of fibreglass vs stainless I think this has been debated before and often and I think will come down to your own preference at the end of the day.

...yeah... Aluminium
__________________
Jono is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 June 2006, 10:35   #15
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: swansea
Boat name: Too Blue
Make: BLANK
Length: 8m +
Engine: Suzuki DT225
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 12,791
IF it really did come down to it - rather than having to rip up the deck etc would it be possible to get a flexi bag tank in through a smaller hole?
__________________
codprawn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23 June 2006, 10:42   #16
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Over here
Boat name: S.S. Nobstick
Make: Three Wise Monkeys
Length: 3m +
Engine: 44lbs of thrust....
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,115
...ask t'other Jono.. he'll remember which of the Prosports up there had the problem... and what the fix was.
__________________
Jono is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 June 2006, 06:18   #17
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: Iande
Make: Zodiac 6.5 pro open
Length: 6m +
Engine: Evinrude 150 + Johns
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 43
Had a similar problem with my Zodiac pro open. Stainless steel tank and leeking at top of sender unit. Bottom rubber gasket on sender within tank had gone and was allowing seepage when tank full and under most pressure (as stated above). Had to order a complete new unit as do not sell seperately of course. Installed and new seal disintegrated soon thereafter - probably rotted by the petrol I'm told!! On advice of very good engineer then cleaned everything up and used lots of ordinary silicone sealant on all contact points (this is what they use all the time) before tightning up. Easy enough and not a problem since.
__________________
Soupy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 June 2006, 07:02   #18
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: boston
Boat name: Miss bad 61
Make: Crapko, AKA Mako
Length: 5m +
Engine: OMC Mod50
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 398
evenrude make suff called M type ( or 3m 847) it's used to seal case halfs, it will not fail,
__________________
fast fred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 24 June 2006, 15:29   #19
RIBnet supporter
 
Erin's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,830
I doubt there's any kind of gasket on the existing setup. It looks like black sikaflex or similar. Will wait until the tanks almost empty then have a closer look.

The tank is fibreglass.
__________________
Erin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 April 2007, 15:16   #20
RIBnet supporter
 
Erin's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: A large rock
Boat name: La Frette
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200 Suzzy
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 2,830
Well I eventually got round to sorting this little problem out. i managed to siphon out nearly every drop of petrol into all my jerry cans, even having to make use of a brand new water butt for the last 30 litres .

Photo 1 shows the plate on the top of the tank (already removed but back resting place for benefit of photo. That was a bu**er to remove!)

Photo 2 shows the hole in th top of the tank cleaned as best I could of old sealant.

Photo 3 shows the various sizes of screws and the old rubber gasket (obviously home made) from the fuel sender. Good old Prosport, why use one standard size of screw when 5 different types can be found in the bottom of your toolbox.

Photo 4 shows my nice new gaskets cut from neoprene reinforced cork.

Hopefully this new arrangement will work. A good dollop of Blue Universal gasket sealant was added for good measure to all surfaces. i also replaced the fuel suction pipe which was a piece of 9mm copper pipe which was slightly undersized for the olive and union. Had to buy a 10m roll of 10mm microbore form B&Q just for 2 feet of pipe. Nevermind, cheap at the price if it works.

Erin
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT2312 (Small).JPG
Views:	128
Size:	41.2 KB
ID:	26222   Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT2316 (Small).JPG
Views:	143
Size:	40.1 KB
ID:	26223   Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT2313 (Small).JPG
Views:	120
Size:	36.9 KB
ID:	26224   Click image for larger version

Name:	PICT2314 (Small).JPG
Views:	94
Size:	45.9 KB
ID:	26225  
__________________
Erin is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:13.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.