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Old 04 September 2014, 15:51   #11
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Originally Posted by Ovey View Post
I was serviced last month (after possibly up to 5 years of not having been according to the service book) and I'm happy
So would I be
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Old 04 September 2014, 16:02   #12
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Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
So would I be

Haha, fair one!

Note to self - check the post before posting!


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Old 04 September 2014, 16:04   #13
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Originally Posted by kerny View Post
If your fuel has been standing for more than two months "do not use" in case it's gone stale , please P.M. me your address as I do offer a free service and I will come and take it away from your premises free of charge.

If you can just turn up with two tankers I'll give you the boat petrol and the disco's diesel in case that goes too! Thanks, you're a saviour!


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Old 04 September 2014, 17:56   #14
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Depends on my plans for winter.
If planning to use through winter, I don't do anything at all, just put it away as usual (engine flushed, trailed rinsed off & cover on)
If winterising I don't add anything to fuel but always try to run the tank fairly low, then brim with fresh juice when de-winterising in the spring. Never had a single problem.
Remainder of winterisation routine is:-
  • Engine given a good dose of fogging oil, plugs oiled & put back in hand tight
  • Everything under the engine cowl given a good coating of anti-corrosion spray.
  • Battery off and stored in workshop.
  • Ropes / fenders / boathook / paddles all off and dry stored
  • Wheels & brake drums off trailer into dry storage, brakes wire-brushed off and treated with anti-corrosion spray (not the linings or drums obviously). Brakes bagged off with heavy plastic bags.
  • winch & hitch lubed and bagged with heavy plastic bags
  • Whole rig tipped up so any water drains out. Stick put up trunk to keep it open.
  • Whole rig washed down, dryed, cover roped down securely.
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Old 05 September 2014, 12:51   #15
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I've come to the conclusion that disconnecting the fuel line and running until empty isn't that great for the fuel pump diaphragms.

If you think about it, when you disconnect the fuel, the pump is trying to pull against a closed valve, a bit like trying to suck through a straw with your finger on the other end, maybe pressing the pin to allow air in would be a little kinder to the pump?
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Old 05 September 2014, 21:06   #16
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[QUOTE]I've come to the conclusion that disconnecting the fuel line and running until empty isn't that great for the fuel pump diaphragms.[/QUOTE]

Definitely not great. Much better to leave carbs / fuel system filled. If you need to drain it, do it when you de-winterise and refill / flush with fresh fuel.

If you have a fuel system without a water separator, draining can result in salt crystals in your fuel system that then block jets / injectors etc.
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Old 06 September 2014, 05:29   #17
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Really helpful comments folks... if I may ask some more...

I do have a water seperator and let the fuel line breath when draining it (as the bulb collapses otherwise too).

In that case, would your advice still be to leave the fuel line / carbs primed / full of fuel?

I'm sure the advice I got on here (or at least somehwere) was to run them empty, but if collective wisdom is not to, that makes it easier actually as I don't have to reprime the fuel line as much each time.


Where does the oil get added to the fuel btw (Yamaha 60hp Autolube) - eg before or after the carbs?

Do let me know what you think - thanks!

Steve
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Old 06 September 2014, 11:13   #18
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This has already been said, but I got it from the etec owners thread, posted by one of the service engineer type guys on there.

They suggest if you have an internal tank to just run it down, maybe leave 20 % in there! but not dry! then winterize the engine. With execs, use the function, and others, whatever the manufacturer recommends, I guess.

When you come to use it again, brim the tank, which will dilute any stale fuel. Check the water separator for water when you 1st run it, and drain off if any water is there.

The forum over there has had a debate on using additives or not, and is in 2 camps, to use, and to not use. Some believe that there may be an issue with injectors if you use additives, whilst others maintain that there may be an issue with injectors with water in the fuel!
Personally I just run the tank down, and brim it before use next time.

Also as others say, park on a slope, so water drains aft, bungs out, cover on, and as for batteries, leave them on charge with a ctek charger all the time.
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Old 07 September 2014, 07:45   #19
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Hi All

Must admit to now looking at the manual for my Yamaha 60FETO 2 stroke ... Yes I know not a very masculine thing to do, like asking for directions!

Anyway, the advice is as below and I think that's where I got the run the fuel line dry idea... Or does the "Idle the engine until the carburettor is drained off" mean something else?

I'm not an engine person so clarification welcomed.

And any other comments on the Yamaha advice... May be of use to others too.

Thanks

Steve
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