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Old 06 April 2008, 14:27   #1
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Country: Ireland
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Make: Valiant DR 490
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Extending The Battery Cable

I just got my rib back but the battery and the fuel tank are in the same compartment i.e. under the seat. I want to move the battery to a seperate compartment which is located in the front of the seat unit. The cable that connects to the battery is not long enough. I need to add approximatly 2 foot (600mm). The engine is a 60 hp ETec.

In your opinion will the extra 2 foot cause an excessive voltage drop. The cable that came with the engine is 9 foot.

TSM
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Old 06 April 2008, 14:49   #2
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Use cable at least as fat as your present stuff and make a good quality joint and it'll likely be fine.
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Old 06 April 2008, 15:05   #3
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I would not splice the wire to make it longer
get a longer wire and larger size
( the smaller the number the larger the diameter the wire)
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Old 06 April 2008, 15:13   #4
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Extending the cable

The cable that came with the engine has been finished with a ring (looks like a lollypop wiith a hole in the middle). I was thinking of using a pre made section of cable with lolly pop connector on each end and connect one end to the battery and connect the lollypops on top of each other and tighten them with a SS bolt.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e.../battleads.php

Using the SSP/N wire 600mm long.
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Old 06 April 2008, 15:37   #5
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The correct way is to use butt connectors and 2 layers of heatshrink.
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Old 06 April 2008, 15:48   #6
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two stroke mick View Post
The cable that came with the engine has been finished with a ring (looks like a lollypop wiith a hole in the middle). I was thinking of using a pre made section of cable with lolly pop connector on each end and connect one end to the battery and connect the lollypops on top of each other and tighten them with a SS bolt.
dirk is of course correct about the correct way. However what your describe is what I have done all covered in two layers of heat shrink. Its a bodge but it works. I only have a 20HP and it has a cord start so I decided that it didn't really matter anyway; if not being able to start your engine would be more critical for you then your conclusion may be different.
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Old 06 April 2008, 16:03   #7
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Dirk is correct, this is the only failsafe way, the other nut and bolt way would be considered a bodge!!
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Old 06 April 2008, 16:24   #8
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Personally If I was to extend cables rather than replacing them I would in all likelihood solder them by splaying and butt jointing them and then blowtorch the joint with plenty of flux and solder to get a good joint. Then cover with adhesive type heatshrink.
I would be happier with this type of joint electrically and mechanically over a crimp. In fact I solder all my crimped connections in addition to crimping them.
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Old 06 April 2008, 16:29   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt h View Post
.... this is the only failsafe way,
Pish. You think a crimp is failsafe?
Quote:
...the other nut and bolt way would be considered a bodge!!
By some, maybe but a nut and bolt will put a pressure of many tons across the joint. After all, when the cable terminates at the battery, it'll just be held to the terminals by.......a nut and bolt.
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Old 06 April 2008, 16:29   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceB View Post
Personally If I was to extend cables rather than replacing them I would in all likelihood solder them by splaying and butt jointing them and then blowtorch the joint with plenty of flux and solder to get a good joint. Then cover with adhesive type heatshrink.
I would be happier with this type of joint electrically and mechanically over a crimp. In fact I solder all my crimped connections in addition to crimping them.
Agreed.
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