Engine Offset

Chris · 23 September 2007, 21:47

Since fitting the new engine I have noticed a slight tendancy for the rib to come down slightly to port especially in rougher conditions. Its not to bad and must be down the extra torque I guess.

Is it really worth the hassle of redrilling holes etc to move the engine over? I have an AUX hanging off the transom on the port side its a 4HP Yamaha, I was wondering if this might be contributing? I cant really see how I could move it over the other side as the elephants trunk is there as well as all the engine cables on the inside.

Is there any other way I could correct this as I suspect that I would have to plate the transom as the holes would only be an inch apart and would probably weaken the transom if I go down the offsetting route.

Chris

Paul Beaurain · 24 September 2007, 08:46

Hi Chris

Definately dont re drill transom yet.
I had this same difficulty on a Humber 6.3 Suzuki 140.
I had the auxilary on the port and then moved it to the starboard.

The result was better. when stationary the boat settled to starboard, at constant speed at 2/3 throttle in calm conditions it would run level.
When in rough conditions and the prop would leave the water it would always land to port.
The boat would get a extra push from the prop as it left or entered the water

hope this helps.
Paul

Chris · 24 September 2007, 09:24

Hi Paul, Yes I agree that moving the aux would be my first port of call if it were not for the elephants trunk being in the way. As it goes I could always do away with the Aux however recently in Cornwall the engine cut out which I believe may have been due to a clogged fuel filter in a very awkward situation and if I had not had the AUX I would have been in trouble so its not going anywhere yet! Once I have gained full confidence in the engine I may do away with the AUX.

Chris

Chris · 24 September 2007, 20:20

I spoke to Roy Bishop at Osprey today and he was v helpfull

I metioned that the new engine has been rigged with the Cav plate even to the bottom of the transom when the old engine had been about 1.5" above the bottom and he sugested that this would definately ontribute to the tendancy so I have asked the installers to lift the engine 2 holes (1.5") I am looking forward to seeing what this will do to both speed and handling with the new engine.

who knows maybe 50 knots

Chris

Searider · 26 September 2007, 16:24

Chris,

Please let us know the outcome - both for the speed and handling.

Lifting my engine a bit is something I have thought about doing but it's such a pain to do with a 150 without proper lifting gear. It would be interesting to see what difference you get.

Duncan

Chris · 26 September 2007, 18:39

I heard of an interesting way to lift the engine a notch without needing any lifting gear. You lower the engine then remove the top two bolts then you lift the front of the boat with the jockey until the outboard skeg is touching the ground (put some wood under it to protect) then slightly loosen the bottom two bolts in the slotted holes. Then use the jockey to lift the front therby lifting the engine up the transom.

Sounds to me like it might work

Chris

scott · 26 September 2007, 19:59

ive just lifted my 200 yam up 2 holes i put a rope from engine to aframe ,a trolley jack under the skeg,took the 2 top bolts out and just loosend the two that are in the sliders it was easy

Searider · 26 September 2007, 20:40

No sliders on my Opti!

Downhilldai · 26 September 2007, 21:52

Trolley jack under the skeg - with protection of course.

Get a couple of bolts back through quickly though.

Searider · 27 September 2007, 13:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Trolley jack under the skeg - with protection of course.

Get a couple of bolts back through quickly though.

That's what I mean about it being a pain! having to balance the engine on its skeg whilst moving it or the boat - with nothing connecting the boat to the engine.

1up · 27 September 2007, 20:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Trolley jack under the skeg - with protection of course.

Get a couple of bolts back through quickly though.

Dont use the skeg on a heavy engine, chock up using wood to the cavitation plate and a couple of mates to help, I lifted my 90, wound on to skeg just as it were taking the weight, as i wound the jockey wheel, it looked like it might snap off so i then used the cavitation plate with no worries.

Paul Beaurain · 29 September 2007, 06:32

Chris
Yes when I moved my Aux. I moved it to the side with the elephant truck.
In reality the elephant truck only works when using the main engine, in which case the aux would be tilted.
Seeing the other proposals - interesting, keep us posted.
Paul

Tim M · 29 September 2007, 12:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

I heard of an interesting way to lift the engine a notch without needing any lifting gear. You lower the engine then remove the top two bolts then you lift the front of the boat with the jockey until the outboard skeg is touching the ground (put some wood under it to protect) then slightly loosen the bottom two bolts in the slotted holes. Then use the jockey to lift the front therby lifting the engine up the transom.

Sounds to me like it might work

Chris

I tried this recently and it wasn't possible as everything was just too heavy (225 4stroke). Engine crane is the way to go - you can hire them for about £20 a day.