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Old 07 March 2009, 12:44   #51
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Supposed to be!

Theres a very good chance that you've got bolts instead of set screws which means the thread wont be long enough after you take the box section out so you'll have to buy new bolts anyway.

Don't worry about all these fancy, overpriced high tensile jobbies, just get some new stainless ones in those marine pre-packs
I've always gone by the rule of tightening the wheel nuts up as tight as you can get them and then put your foot on the bar for an extra crunch. Torque in them up will leave you in a spot at the side of the road.

Anyway, I never thought about that Martini! For some reason I thought it would be threaded at least half to a third of the way down. D'OH!!!
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Old 07 March 2009, 12:51   #52
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Lets hope the mrs doesnt get a puncture in your car then! Wheel nut torque is normally 70-80 ft/lb which isn't that tight at all, would probably suprise you!
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Old 07 March 2009, 12:56   #53
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It's different with alloy and steel wheels. Especially old Land Rovers!!! You need to torque up the alloy ones but it's just not tight enough for the steel.

Remember lot's of things specify tigthening to a certain torque and then an extra 1/16th of a turn or whatever. That is exactly the same as nipping it up a bit!!!
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Old 07 March 2009, 13:01   #54
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Not sure if this is right but have always been told to replace a torqued up bolt and nut for a shiny one?
Ok will re phrase what I said as by torque I mean TORQUED.

Not sure if this is right but have always been told to replace a highly torqued up bolt and not for a new one.


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Old 07 March 2009, 13:17   #55
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Depends on how tight I suppose. Some cars use stretch bolts on the cylinder heads and they do need to be replaced after a certain number of cycles.

On a similar point I remember seeing how they tighten some huge bolts in the Port Talbot steel works. They stretch the bolts first - screw the nuts on hand tight and then release the bolts - they contract back to their original length and you have very tight nuts............
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Old 07 March 2009, 13:20   #56
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They stretch the bolts first - screw the nuts on hand tight and then release the bolts - they contract back to their original length and you have very tight nuts............
Once had a girl do that to me She was all teeth too.

I'm hoping the bolts have enough thread to get back to the transom but thinking about it, I doubt it as Martini says.

Right, back to what nut and bolt to buy?
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Old 28 April 2010, 17:26   #57
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Thread resurection

Having searched this thread seems to be the best on moutning bolts.

I went this evening to fit the bar that spreads the load on the top mounting bolts only to realise the bolts aren't long enough to go through the washer , bar, transom, engine , washer and on to the nut !

So I need new bolts - ideally very very quickly so I can get bolted up properly for the weekend. I'll be on the phone at 8 to chase up but any known stockists ?

Anyone know of anywhere around that may carry them off the shelf ( in the Bournemouth area - or Portsmouth as I can head that way on Friday)
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Old 29 April 2010, 04:18   #58
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What length do you need?
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Old 29 April 2010, 06:10   #59
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What length do you need?
Have to be about 14 cm in all, with maybe 8 cm shoulder.
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Old 29 April 2010, 06:31   #60
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Give Gareth at Marinautic a call, he'll have those.
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