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Old 08 December 2015, 18:09   #21
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The rectifier BTW is ~77, kit is ~133
That doesn't include any charge controller.
From what I can see from googling ( https://www.tohatsuoutboardparts.com...0221054-1).pdf ) you already have the alternator. You probably have a white and yellow wire that terminate at loose terminals. Alternator spec seems hard to find but looks like it would be 60-80W. About 5amps.

If you ran that into this: New 150-250 CC Engine Motor Voltage Regulator Rectifier 4Pin Female Plug | eBay

Pin in/outs:
Yellow - Connect to the yellow wire from the alternator
Red - Connect to 12V +ve of battery via a 3Amp fuse
Pink - Connect to the white wire from the alternator
Green - Earth Connect to engine body, and to 12V -ve of battery

Before connecting to a battery I'd suggest running and checking the voltage with a meter - expect 14.4V or thereabouts.

Secure the rectifier to something big and "metally" that will dissipate heat.

That unit is a rectifier (converts AC to DC and a regulator converts varying voltage to c12V. ) It doesn't manage the battery charging. There is a possibility you could over charge battery if you don't have any drain on the current ever running such as lights or radio etc. If thats a possibility you want a charge controller like you put on a solar panel too. BUT assuming you will have some drain running you will probably be fine, especially as you wont be motoring for 72 hours solid.

If I'm remembering right you said you have 34Ah of battery on board. That would discharge down to about 14Ah and then be 'dead'. Recharging that 20Ah drop will take about 7 hours with no draws on current. But assuming you head out with full batteries and have engine running while the electrics are on chances are you aren't draining anything... its the drifting that will discharge you. You'd need to know what your current draw is in "drift mode" and how long you drift vs motor. To be honest you need the drift mode current draw no matter what solution you adopt or its all guess work...
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Old 08 December 2015, 18:17   #22
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Eh?
The actual pack Kaman links to is not a 21Ah jobby but a Li Battery. Type of thing you can charge your phone from 8000 times from an inbuilt USB port, but as this is the super powered model you can also start a car and fly to the moon. But for some reason, that I assume is technical rather than bad design, they don't let you charge while discharging, unlike with a Lead Acid where you can feed the battery from an alternator and either draw more than you are putting in or less and charge the battery up more... ...the Li power packs insist on switching between discharge and charge mode. (Or all the ones I looked at when trying to find a battery backup solution for a RasPi did)
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Old 09 December 2015, 03:20   #23
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Jeff, totally agree with all you've said.

Just not with your poor comment of Clyde Outboards (although you may have your reasons for this and that's your business) but was hoping it came from the simple misunderstanding I highlighted. I see Kaman has cleared this up also. IMO they're all 'brand new' that work there, but that would be for another thread !

I personally would also rather be charging up something electrical from a mechanical source giving good redundancy.
Total misunderstanding willie I worked years with scotch lads never heard the term brand new down hear it's no expearence I have apologised thanks for pointing it out no offence intended.

Cheers
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Old 09 December 2015, 03:31   #24
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Shiny

The kit I got for my Suzuki 106 is a rectifier & regulator assembly in one hope that helps

Cheers
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Old 09 December 2015, 05:20   #25
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total misunderstanding willie i worked years with scots lads never heard the term brand new down hear it's no expearence i have apologised thanks for pointing it out no offence intended.



Cheers

👍🏻👍🏻.
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Old 09 December 2015, 08:54   #26
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Well I spent half my life in Glasgae
That's a festival..... I think you meant "Glesga"


I only read this thread now, so this comment might be too late - I got a used Suzuki Outboard Rectifier / regulator for something like 20. (replaced the "rectifier only" that toasted my first battery on the Clamshell). Granted I had a wiring diagram for both the engine and the new electrical bit to hand!

With my limited SIB experience, My thoughts would be that having something else to fill the boat usually just results in a trip hazard or pain as it meets you on the way past when you hit an unexpected wave!
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Old 09 December 2015, 14:03   #27
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With my limited SIB experience, My thoughts would be that having something else to fill the boat usually just results in a trip hazard or pain as it meets you on the way past when you hit an unexpected wave!
Kaman is a pro though with all his kit tied down and neatly stowed for reasonably long trips.


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Before connecting to a battery I'd suggest running and checking the voltage with a meter - expect 14.4V or thereabouts.
That could be an expensive mistake. Regulators tend to go pop with no load attached.

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That unit is a rectifier (converts AC to DC and a regulator converts varying voltage to c12V. ) It doesn't manage the battery charging. There is a possibility you could over charge battery if you don't have any drain on the current ever running such as lights or radio etc. If thats a possibility you want a charge controller like you put on a solar panel too.
? There is no clever battery charging electrickerry circuits in a normal outboard arrangement, you don't boil the battery because the voltage is properly regulated.
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Old 09 December 2015, 14:20   #28
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Cheers guys for all of your input.
I'm still not decided how to address my electrical dilemmas but I will do in the new year once my fixed DSC radio is installed and ready for action.
I will have a chat with my local dealer whom I bought my Tohatsu outboard from before I make up my mind.
He's also "brand new" :sly:
Excellent input on here sure has given me a good starting block for next year.:thumbup:
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Old 09 December 2015, 14:37   #29
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I think we may need to set Myth Busters away on this one...

Myth One: An Expensive Mistake - its a 5 rectifier

Now apparently according to the science of Poly it can't boil your battery because the voltage is regulated... ...but what about the current? Boiling your battery is affected by both from my understanding.

But if thats the case the regulator must be capable of not putting any juice into a fully charged battery to avoid boiling it. On that basis the regulator must be able to cope with no battery connected?

But yes if running for any length of time or at any more than tickover or without the heatsink attached to plenty of heat disepating surface a load to take the power away from the heatsink would be good, that could be a 25W, 12V car side light bulb. If its not wired correctly you blow the bulb (1) not the battery 30-100
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Old 09 December 2015, 15:42   #30
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I think we may need to set Myth Busters away on this one...

Myth One: An Expensive Mistake - its a 5 rectifier

Now apparently according to the science of Poly it can't boil your battery because the voltage is regulated... ...but what about the current? Boiling your battery is affected by both from my understanding.

But if thats the case the regulator must be capable of not putting any juice into a fully charged battery to avoid boiling it. On that basis the regulator must be able to cope with no battery connected?
No. The "feedback" from the battery to the alternator is the voltage. No volts (disconnected battery) "tells" the alternator to supply more power which it does, but still gets no volt feedback and the process runs away eventually going pop (and if you are lucky only the regulator gets fried). In contrast a fully charged battery sends back a "good" voltage signal which reduces the current output.

I don't know how you'd get high current into a working battery without pushing the voltage above the normal charging range?

When you ruin the cheap rectifier you also risk damaging other stuff...
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