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Old 05 March 2007, 10:29   #1
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Centring steering wheels

When I was fitting my passenger jockey seat I had the steering (cable) disconnected to run the stg cable through the new jockety seat out of the way. When I put it all back together, inevitably the wheel was not straight.

Now the sensible and logical thing would be for the wheel to fit on a multi splined hub so that you could pull the wheel off with the engine in the straight ahead position, then refit the wheel and it would be done, like every car I have ever seen. But Messrs Teleflex thought that was too easy, so the hub only has two notches and a woodruff key, neither of which is anywhere near my centre...

I could pull it all out again (pain in the rear taking the cable back out through both console and seat and it is a two-person-heave v v f tight fit) but if its done by trial and error then it is probably no more likely to be straight than it was the first time

Is there a "trick" to doing this some other way, or do I have to live with a wonky steering wheel (which annoys me every time I look at it!) or risk taking it off another six or twenty times before I get it exactly right?

Thanks
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Old 05 March 2007, 11:06   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster View Post
When I was fitting my passenger jockey seat I had the steering (cable) disconnected to run the stg cable through the new jockety seat out of the way. When I put it all back together, inevitably the wheel was not straight.

Now the sensible and logical thing would be for the wheel to fit on a multi splined hub so that you could pull the wheel off with the engine in the straight ahead position, then refit the wheel and it would be done, like every car I have ever seen. But Messrs Teleflex thought that was too easy, so the hub only has two notches and a woodruff key, neither of which is anywhere near my centre...

I could pull it all out again (pain in the rear taking the cable back out through both console and seat and it is a two-person-heave v v f tight fit) but if its done by trial and error then it is probably no more likely to be straight than it was the first time

Is there a "trick" to doing this some other way, or do I have to live with a wonky steering wheel (which annoys me every time I look at it!) or risk taking it off another six or twenty times before I get it exactly right?

Thanks
I couldn't find the trick, it took 6 times before I was happy, now have a six spoke wheel so you can't tell
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Old 05 March 2007, 11:55   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster View Post
When I was fitting my passenger jockey seat I had the steering (cable) disconnected to run the stg cable through the new jockety seat out of the way. When I put it all back together, inevitably the wheel was not straight.

Now the sensible and logical thing would be for the wheel to fit on a multi splined hub so that you could pull the wheel off with the engine in the straight ahead position, then refit the wheel and it would be done, like every car I have ever seen. But Messrs Teleflex thought that was too easy, so the hub only has two notches and a woodruff key, neither of which is anywhere near my centre...

I could pull it all out again (pain in the rear taking the cable back out through both console and seat and it is a two-person-heave v v f tight fit) but if its done by trial and error then it is probably no more likely to be straight than it was the first time

Is there a "trick" to doing this some other way, or do I have to live with a wonky steering wheel (which annoys me every time I look at it!) or risk taking it off another six or twenty times before I get it exactly right?

Thanks
Humber got mine straight. The helm broke (much misuse by adoloscent son). Firm that replaced it got it wrong. Now wonky like yours and handily obscures the trim indicator - which is erratic at best so no great loss. But really irritating.

If it's a Teleflex Safe-T or Big-T or NFB Safe-T II, before the cable is inserted turn the wheel so the 'horizontal' spokes are at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock, and the 'vertical' spoke at 2 o'clock. Then feed in the cable and all will be perfect. If it's an NFB 4.2 helm, the 'vertical' spoke should be at 11 o'clock. It doesn't say where the engine should be.

That's what it says in my installation manual anyway. You've probably got one. Probably followed the same instructions to the letter.... It's all very American!

Tony
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Old 05 March 2007, 12:41   #4
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You can download instructions from Teleflex at http://www.teleflexmarine.com/ Centreing the steering wheel is described. I know this won't help much, but it is a straightforward procedure.... when the cable is not attached to the motor
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Old 05 March 2007, 15:03   #5
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Thanks

On a related subject, there seems to be a little bit of play in the steering hub if you try and pull/push the wheel in and out - is this normal in Teleflex systems or should I be worried about it? Steering seems fine - a little bit of play which I think is pretty normal on a cable system, and it isn't notchy or stiff as long as I keep the engine end greased up.

I don't have the installation manual for the steering, I didn't get it when I bought the boat, no idea whether the original owner did or not.
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Old 06 March 2007, 05:16   #6
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Originally Posted by BogMonster View Post
Thanks

On a related subject, there seems to be a little bit of play in the steering hub if you try and pull/push the wheel in and out - is this normal in Teleflex systems or should I be worried about it? Steering seems fine - a little bit of play which I think is pretty normal on a cable system, and it isn't notchy or stiff as long as I keep the engine end greased up.

I don't have the installation manual for the steering, I didn't get it when I bought the boat, no idea whether the original owner did or not.
Mine's the same. I think it's something to do with the clutches on the NFB system. Doesn't seem to affect accurate steering though.
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Old 06 March 2007, 06:48   #7
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it's timed, you got to start the cable into the helm with the wheel at a set position for it to come out timed right.
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