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Old 14 October 2008, 17:47   #21
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Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP View Post
Nice one. It may tell me in the manual that Nos4r2 linked to.
Hang on and I'll tell you
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Old 14 October 2008, 17:53   #22
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
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MMSI: 235090687/235055163
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50:1 according to that manual.
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Old 14 October 2008, 19:00   #23
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Cheers mate, I could have sworn it was nasher who said about the 50 or 100:1 ... I need one of them there younger women
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Old 14 October 2008, 22:41   #24
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Country: Other
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Make: Honwave Air 3.2
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Hi JSP
Dont wanna put a downer on things.. but.. the guy is telling you a load of porkies it appears. the engine looks to be about 17 years old or more, without the the code, hard to tell. IF it has been serviced on a regular basis, then he should have receipts. If he has done it himself, then he wont mind removing the lower leg for inspection of internal corrosion in the leg. also remove the powerhead at the time, a strightforward job, and check the ehaust and lower bearing carrier, driveshaft connection etc for terminal corrosion. Check the compressions too, lower gearbox oil for colour and metal contents.
The boat could be a lot older too.
As you may have read in a few threads here, just scrapped a 15 yam of similar vintage due to internal corrosion, yes, it can look great outside... but...
otherwise I would walk away, seriously.
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Old 15 October 2008, 04:34   #25
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You've got my backside twitching now Ruddles. Don't want to travel all that way and find a Muppet with a spinning bow tie! I know a good amount about normal diesel engines but outboards I understand can be a different ball game.
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Old 15 October 2008, 05:24   #26
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I personally think removal of the lower leg is overkill. Bit like buying a used car - "Do you mind if I remove the engine, just want to check something!)

For 2,000 it's a deal. Start the engine up and see it pumps water with strong tell-tale, etc.
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Old 15 October 2008, 08:33   #27
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Found this courtesy of 'Roofer' posted in 2005

"There should be a letter in the serial number, it works like this

1990=d, 1991=c, 1992=b, 1993=a, 1994=z, 1995=y, 1996=x, 1997=w, 1998=v, 1999=u, 2000=t, 2001=s, 2002=r, 2003=q, 2004=p, 2005=n

hope this helps"

There you go so mine is a 94, you could ring the seller and ask for the letter?
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Old 15 October 2008, 08:51   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP View Post
Cheers mate, I could have sworn it was nasher who said about the 50 or 100:1 ... I need one of them there younger women
from what i was told if the engine is used hard and fast it wants to be at 50/1 but if its usage is slow speed or light use 100/1. regards younger women my wifes 10 years younger than me sometimes i wish she was 10 years older .
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Old 15 October 2008, 09:52   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
I personally think removal of the lower leg is overkill. Bit like buying a used car - "Do you mind if I remove the engine, just want to check something!)

For 2,000 it's a deal. Start the engine up and see it pumps water with strong tell-tale, etc.
I would disagree strongly. to change the impellor, one needs to remove the lower leg, it is a normal service item. The seller says it has been maintained / serviced on a regular basis, so it shoul only take a short time and can tell you a heck of a lot. IF for example, the blts dont want to remove, then you have a problem, IF the waterpump housing is badly corroded, you also have a problem. The yam I scrapped did run and pump water, but was still beyond any sensible repair. It could not have had a new impellor fitted or a simple service of the powerhead, the aluminium castings were shot.

If the price is, say 2k, then what is the guy paying for the outboard ?, if you think the boat on its own is worth that and are prepared to buy another outboard, then ok.
Look, it could be a great engine, but its NOT 7 years old.
Make the sale dependent on a service of the engine at a reputable engineer if necessary. Ask the engineer to check for corrosion and sizing of powerhead bolts etc. with the lower leg off you can at least shine a torch INSIDE the main leg - the area where the corrosion will kill the thing no matter how clean the outside is.
Same as a thorough test run and compression check, check on plug colours after a run. If you think thats too much to ask, then fine, but if there is 500 squids in the deal for the engine AND its a pup, its a lot of dosh to throw away. another 500 plus only buys another dubious engine.
Sorry to sound like the doom merchant here, as said, it may be a good motor, but a few sensible precautions are called for. Just making sure it starts and pumps water is not in any way conclusive or objective.
Caveat Emptor
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Old 15 October 2008, 10:35   #30
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Quote:
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If the price is, say 2k, then what is the guy paying for the outboard ?,

He said in a previous post that he paid 1500. Without seeing the state of the package it's impossible to judge accurately. However, roughly speaking, if the boat's worth in the region of 850 and the trailer 200 then he effectively only paid around 450 for the engine (obviously very approximately worked out).
Even if the engine was shot he could probably still get a couple hundred quid back from it on ebay as 'spares or repair' so it's not quite as serious as you make out.

I hear what yor saying Ruds and agree you have to be quite vigilant but, personally I would be pretty cheesed off if someone came to look at my engine(if up for sale) and wanted to remove the lower leg

Hear the engine run, test compression, check plugs and general condition yeah but I'd have to draw the line if someone I've just met insisted on dismantling my (working perfectly) engine
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