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Old 20 April 2010, 17:49   #21
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Originally Posted by Bigmuz7 View Post
Ditto!

That would be a spectacularly daft thing to do.

Does the boat dry? Is there any reason you can't just leave the engine down?
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Old 21 April 2010, 02:50   #22
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Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
Ditto!
That would be a spectacularly daft thing to do.
I can see 2 problems with that several problems with that.

1 glycol mix isn't as lubricating as oil,
2, There one thing glycol isnt and thats conductive, we use it to cool magnetrons in work, and the glycol is in contact with both ground and 2000 volts on the magnetron, and no current flows.
unless some nobbur mixes it with tap water,(we use DI water) then there is a spectacular amount of corrosion.
pure water isnt conductive either, electrical pylon insulators are pressure washed with deionised water....LIVE! at 500000volts!
so i fear if you use tap water the inside of you trim unit will corrode, and if you use DI water then it wont make any difference.

I will have to agree with the spectacularly daft comment at the moment
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Old 21 April 2010, 02:54   #23
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Originally Posted by The Dock View Post
Yes i can retract the trim rams . But i will have very little contact with an earth strap loop on the rams . I am afraid that this will only concentrate the pitting to the area of contact . I am hoping to fit conductive rubber O-Rings that will carry the earth bonding from the clamp bracket and tilt assembly casing to the ram . I am also going to drain ATF and replace with glycol and water solution which is for extra protection . I am nearly convinced at this stage that it is the ram quality cos only one of two is pitted . Engine is Suzuki but Yamaha have the same dimension ram . How could i source a cheap replacement Yamaha ram ?
you dont need much contact, any area will do, just a teeny little stainless strap across the tilt tam eye bushes, and retract the trim rams, job done.
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Old 21 April 2010, 18:13   #24
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Guess i wont drain the ATF then ! Thanks a million for the advice guys ! I think Mobil have a solution for me . Will keep ye posted . Again Thanks a Million !!!!!!!!
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Old 21 April 2010, 18:32   #25
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And the 3rd time...


Does the boat dry out at low tide? Is there any reason you can't just leave the engine down so the anodes can do their job?
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Old 22 April 2010, 18:30   #26
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Sorry Bud ! I'm being warned by my Suzuki service man that is a bad idea . Growth will build up inside leg . No worries with depth . I think I'm back to one of the original recommendations and hanging individual anodes from the rams . Stainless wire crimped with an anode hanging from it . This is a bummer but I'm also being reassured that the newer rams are being made from a better grade of stainless . Here's to Happy Motoring!!!!!
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Old 22 April 2010, 18:35   #27
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. Growth will build up inside leg .
Sounds like an odd idea to me-Not heard of any large amounts of growth buildup inside an Avon flooding hull so there shouldn't be any problem with the inside of something that's dark and being regularly blasted with hot gas and water.
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Old 23 April 2010, 04:26   #28
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Sounds like an odd idea to me-Not heard of any large amounts of growth buildup inside an Avon flooding hull so there shouldn't be any problem with the inside of something that's dark and being regularly blasted with hot gas and water.
dont think ive ever seen anything living in a leg. i would of thought as you say the exhaust deposits and regular hot flush were an effective antifoul.

Individual anoded on each rod will work OK, dont really see the difference to the original suggestion of an earth strap though? except one end will be swinging around free.
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