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Old 26 February 2012, 19:36   #21
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so if the motor is also not pushing out the power it suppose too, it will also cause boat not to plane out not enough power to level boat out basically???
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Old 26 February 2012, 19:46   #22
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thks to everybody in the mean while
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Old 27 February 2012, 13:59   #23
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errr that's not a 225...... It's a Merc Blueband from the days when they multiplied horsepower by 10 for the name - The 500 was a 50Hp, 600 was 60 Hp, 250 was a 25...... and those were crank horsepowers so subtract about 5HP for your actual prop power too!

Looking at it looks more like the 3 cyl 50 / 60Hp, so it wouldn't be too difficult for someone to "re power" by swapping cases. (I could fit a blueband case to mine to make it look like a 600HP!) If you have a 21" pitch prop on there it's hardly surprising it's not going anywhere fast as I doubt you have the grunt to turn it. I would guess somethong in the vicinity of 11-14" would be more appropriate. (if it is a 50-ish HP engine)


You got a serial number for it? or could you photograph the engine "full frame" with something we could scale against in the shot? That might help to work out what is actually hanging on your transom.
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Old 27 February 2012, 14:38   #24
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errr that's not a 225...... It's a Merc Blueband from the days when they multiplied horsepower by 10 for the name - The 500 was a 50Hp, 600 was 60 Hp, 250 was a 25...... and those were crank horsepowers so subtract about 5HP for your actual prop power too!

Looking at it looks more like the 3 cyl 50 / 60Hp, so it wouldn't be too difficult for someone to "re power" by swapping cases. (I could fit a blueband case to mine to make it look like a 600HP!) If you have a 21" pitch prop on there it's hardly surprising it's not going anywhere fast as I doubt you have the grunt to turn it. I would guess somethong in the vicinity of 11-14" would be more appropriate. (if it is a 50-ish HP engine)


You got a serial number for it? or could you photograph the engine "full frame" with something we could scale against in the shot? That might help to work out what is actually hanging on your transom.
Looks like a 200/225hp to me. Look at the pic of the side of the cowl where it says '25 Mercury'.
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Old 27 February 2012, 16:17   #25
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If the pic on the trailer and the one at sea are anything to scale it by, that looks about the size of my 60 HP lump..... Also the proportions of the case don't shout "V" to me - it looks way too narrow. is the 225not a V6 or a V8?

Mind you those Clamshells were quite compact. Happy to be proven wrong, it just to my untrained eye doesn't look big enough on the boat to be that size of engine.
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Old 27 February 2012, 16:33   #26
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i was told put some spacers behind motor like some kind of aluminum wedge to tilt motor more back is tht true
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Old 27 February 2012, 16:36   #27
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its diff a v6 serial no is 5819392
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Old 27 February 2012, 16:41   #28
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Motor's too high, you need a longer shaft.
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Old 27 February 2012, 16:49   #29
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starboard side 3 cylinders and the port side has another 3 making it a v6
it also takes 6 spark plugs, also meaning its a 6 cylinders, 3 on each side making it a v6
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Old 27 February 2012, 16:53   #30
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Ah, OK. Forget my first reply! That is one compact lump...

Couple of thoughts -
-Any water in the hull? "moveable ballast" never helps bows stay down, and with 225 on the back you probably won't even notice the extra weight - 'till it moves aft!
-Are you trimmed right in when you take off?
-How heavy is the boat?

As said above, that's a lot of gee gees for a relatively small boat. Have a play with the power trim. (trim right in for start) also a higher pitch might reduce the "0-60 (or 0-100 if you are metric!)" a bit, calm the attempts at back flips & give you more top speed.

What's it's max revs if you open up & let it go?
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Old 27 February 2012, 16:53   #31
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errr that's not a 225...... It's a Merc Blueband from the days when they multiplied horsepower by 10 for the name - The 500 was a 50Hp, 600 was 60 Hp, 250 was a 25...... and those were crank horsepowers so subtract about 5HP for your actual prop power too!

Looking at it looks more like the 3 cyl 50 / 60Hp, so it wouldn't be too difficult for someone to "re power" by swapping cases. (I could fit a blueband case to mine to make it look like a 600HP!) If you have a 21" pitch prop on there it's hardly surprising it's not going anywhere fast as I doubt you have the grunt to turn it. I would guess somethong in the vicinity of 11-14" would be more appropriate. (if it is a 50-ish HP engine)


You got a serial number for it? or could you photograph the engine "full frame" with something we could scale against in the shot? That might help to work out what is actually hanging on your transom.
stop crying mercury serial no says its 225hp loll weather if it only pushes out 25hp lol its still 225hp by merc
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:01   #32
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Ah, OK. Forget my first reply! That is one compact lump...

Couple of thoughts -
-Any water in the hull? "moveable ballast" never helps bows stay down, and with 225 on the back you probably won't even notice the extra weight - 'till it moves aft!
-Are you trimmed right in when you take off?
-How heavy is the boat?

As said above, that's a lot of gee gees for a relatively small boat. Have a play with the power trim. (trim right in for start) also a higher pitch might reduce the "0-60 (or 0-100 if you are metric!)" a bit, calm the attempts at back flips & give you more top speed.

What's it's max revs if you open up & let it go?
no no water in hull
no moveable ballat
yes trimmed right down
the boat not tht heavy 5 men can lift it without the outboard on maybe 200 250kg
hhhmmm as fare as revs not sure still busy connecting rev gauge
also my motor as in the pic show the outboard trimmed right in some1 told me i need more angle so i mst add some kind of spacer to transom to give the outboard more trim if u understand? wht u guys think and is motor to hi do i need a longer shaft??
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:02   #33
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also if the motor need to be dropped how much must it be dropped by maybe i can out the transom and lower the motor???
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:10   #34
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Conventional wisdom says the cav. plate should be in line with the bottom of the keel.
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:17   #35
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Conventional wisdom says the cav. plate should be in line with the bottom of the keel.
first problem is to lower motor or get a longer shaft and take it from there???
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:22   #36
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Probably be easier / cheaper to muck about with the trim , weight distribution & prop first (dealers usually have a selection of props you can test with - on the assumption you are going to buy one off them when you are finished!)


If it is a short shaft, there may be an argument for sell it & replace with a longshaft. Depends on your mechanical abilities and the likelihood of finding a longshaft donor engine.
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:28   #37
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Conventional wisdom says the cav. plate should be in line with the bottom of the keel.
Looked to me to be about 10+cm too high
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:28   #38
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it is a long shaft engine and wht do u mean muck about with trim cause when i was driving it the trim was adjusted right down

prop how much higher should i go +/ - at the moment its 21p

thanks for everybody input and time really appreciated
thanks
from cape town south africa lol
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:46   #39
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Before you go cutting the transom measure it! Is it a 20 or 25 ? your engine is suited to a 20. May be you require an XL.

TBH the hull looks cheaply built, I see it's warped under the engine brackets in some pictures.

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
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Old 27 February 2012, 17:46   #40
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Change the motor for the right one!
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