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Old 19 November 2008, 19:32   #21
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Stainless it is, I would prefer glassed in knees but the pipe is easier.

What diameter is the pipe?

Thanks

Phill

1-11/8 inch diameter. the pads welded on the ends are about 2" wide so there is half inch either side of the tube.
the bolts glassed into the deck are M10.
and yes its thick wall stainless tube.
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Old 19 November 2008, 21:07   #22
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Can't see any bolts on mine? Are they bolts or some sort of nut glassed in?
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Old 19 November 2008, 21:10   #23
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theres M10 bolts through the transom, and m10 studs sticking up out of the deck with a nyloc nut holding the plate down.
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Old 19 November 2008, 21:13   #24
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Can you have a look at these pics and see if you can see them, I think I know where they should be but can't see em?
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Old 19 November 2008, 21:19   #25
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if they have been removed, you will have to glass some new ones in.

I had to put some new ones on mine, get an m10 bolt welded to a flat stainless plate about1.5" square and epoxy and screw it directly to the plywood deck, epoxy a piece of ply over the top, then glass over the lot.

heres a picture of one matt H did you can see where they go.

http://rib.net/forum/attachment.php?...9&d=1198867215
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Old 19 November 2008, 21:24   #26
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Thanks for that, it'll keep me out of trouble for a while.
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Old 19 November 2008, 21:30   #27
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Whats happened to the transom? have the elephant trunks been covered?
why has a hole Been brutalised through the floor?
i assume you are putting it back as it should be?
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Old 19 November 2008, 21:34   #28
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Not sure whats happened to it, doing a bit tapping sounds like a trunk has been covered, feck knows what the hole in the deck is for? It doesn't go through in to the flooding bit though and has been sealed pretty well.

I want to get it back to someway near original looks and build.
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Old 19 November 2008, 21:53   #29
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I noticed there is a hollow bit on mine,that is totally sealed, maybe its there so you have the option of having a bilge pump well, which is what i guess its been used for on yours.? there should be two or 3 elephant trunk holes depending on the age of the hull. you can have the best of both worlds, pump and trunks. or the other possibility is the flooding hull needs a volume reducer so it doesnt sit too low with the hull flooded. might have to ask someone at avon.
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Old 19 November 2008, 22:23   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doggypaddle View Post
if they have been removed, you will have to glass some new ones in.

I had to put some new ones on mine, get an m10 bolt welded to a flat stainless plate about1.5" square and epoxy and screw it directly to the plywood deck, epoxy a piece of ply over the top, then glass over the lot.

heres a picture of one matt H did you can see where they go.

http://rib.net/forum/attachment.php?...9&d=1198867215
Or use a bighead.

Looking at the photo of the transom, do you know what condition the plywood is in? Has a tendency to go a little "soft" over time. If it's not in good condition the struts might be the least of your worries.
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Old 20 November 2008, 07:01   #31
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It seems ok, me and my brother had a swing on it and they was very little movement considering they was about 32 stone hanging on it.

I'll fit two trunk drainers that are suppose to self seal and see how quickly it sinks, if its really quick I'll sort a bilge pump out.
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Old 20 November 2008, 09:14   #32
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each strut tube is approx 630mm long with a plate tig welded on the ends.
thats the longest side of the tube measured, i cant measure the shorter underside.
if you want any more measurements like the height on the transom or the distance from the transom to the anchor bolt let me know. boat is in driveway so easy to get at.
Hi mate, could you email me the above measurements as I'm looking at getting some supports made.

Measured from the deck to the transom mounting and the deck/transom joint to the deck mounting.

Thanks Phill
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Old 20 November 2008, 19:13   #33
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i will have a measure up on saturday for you.
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Old 20 November 2008, 20:17   #34
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Cheers mate, I might be able to get a local fab shop to do some cheapish.
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Old 21 November 2008, 12:03   #35
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probably easiest to get them made then put the anchors in the right place, Then the angle of the plates on the end is the only really critical bit.
You will probably have to make a wooden template to make sure its spot on.
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Old 23 November 2008, 17:48   #36
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sorry.....i havent measured up yet, was going to do it today but got sidetracked due to a rather spectacular turbo failure on a mates landrover!
maybe tomorrow if its dry!
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Old 23 November 2008, 18:41   #37
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What Landy is it?
I'm looking at getting anotherone.
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Old 24 November 2008, 15:33   #38
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the one that blew up is a 1962 series 2a with a perkins prima engine.
Its newer than all my landrovers
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Old 24 November 2008, 18:06   #39
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Never had a turbo one but broke most of the others I had!
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Old 24 November 2008, 19:37   #40
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easy to break but fortunately just as easy to fix
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