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Old 26 October 2007, 11:35   #1
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Transom Bolt sealing??

All

I need to remove and replace a couple of my engine bolts to replace rusty washers that obviously found their way in amoungst the stainless washers ones when I put the engine on.

What do others use as a sealing agent around the bolts through their transoms?

I've used everything in the past from silicone grease and sealer to Sikaflex, which obviously makes them a pain to get out again.

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Old 26 October 2007, 12:18   #2
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Try spraying the bolts with silicone before you insert them. I would be tempted to use epoxy - just make sure you do a test run in a block of wood or something first!!!

BTW buy yourself a magnet - great for checking your nuts.............
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Old 26 October 2007, 12:27   #3
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Can't beat Silkaflex Nasher, rather than buy a new tube, I have some black I purchased to do the sealing around the instruments and don't need it for anything else. Your more than welcome to pick it up.
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Old 26 October 2007, 13:12   #4
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Thanks Guys

I've a half empty tube of Black myself at the moment thanks Andy, I'll need to go and get some more white.
Last time I used Sikaflex on transom bolts they were a right pain to get out again, but I suppose they don't come out too often.

I keep my Stainless and other fasteners in seperate bins in the garage, but must have mixed some somehow.
I don't trust the magnet with stainless, as some forms of Stainless are magnetic.
One of my commodities at Raymarine is Fasteners, and I've recently had a long drawn out battle with a mad Hungarian who claimed that some Jubilee clamps I'd supplied were not Stainless because they were magnetic.
I persuaded him in the end with help from my supplier that Stainless can be magnetic depending on the grade.

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Old 26 October 2007, 13:29   #5
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The best stainless to resist corrosion IS non magnetic - but it's not as tough as the magnetic stuff - as always it's a compromise.

Yup - loads of people think ALL stainless is non magnetic - in fact there are probably about 50 or more different grades - there are 8 grades of 316 alone!!!

Then again I'm probably teaching granny to suck eggs here...........

Try coating the threads with silicone spray - it should make removal easier - if that's what you want!!!
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Old 26 October 2007, 13:36   #6
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.....One of my commodities at Raymarine is Fasteners, and I've recently had a long drawn out battle with a mad Hungarian who claimed that some Jubilee clamps I'd supplied were not Stainless because they were magnetic.
I persuaded him in the end with help from my supplier that Stainless can be magnetic depending on the grade.

Nasher.

Then, if your supplier is supplying ferritic/martensitic "stainless" as opposed to austenetic “stainless” for fasteners used in a marine environment I suggest he wants a good kick in the gonads… but be aware that extensive cold working can render even austenitic steels “magnetic”….
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Old 26 October 2007, 13:47   #7
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The best stainless to resist corrosion IS non magnetic - but it's not as tough as the magnetic stuff - as always it's a compromise.

Yup - loads of people think ALL stainless is non magnetic - in fact there are probably about 50 or more different grades - there are 8 grades of 316 alone!!!
Oh Goodie.... a discussion on my favourite subject....
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Old 26 October 2007, 15:09   #8
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Stroke em wiv a magnet.

Anyway, I use silicon sealer cos you can chap the bolts out with a drift when you need to.
Don't put silicon grease anywhere near where you might, in the future, want something to stick.
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Old 26 October 2007, 15:14   #9
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you can chap the bolts out with a drift

dats diffrent

i yewshully drifft de bowlts owt wiv a chapp

gaRf
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Old 26 October 2007, 15:26   #10
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skwirrel meet forr sail

worning: maiy contane nutts






It reminded me of the meat pies that were sold during the war...50% horse and 50% chicken.

One horse mixed with one chicken.
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Old 26 October 2007, 15:27   #11
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i yewshully drifft de bowlts owt wiv a chapp
You could use Codders!
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Old 26 October 2007, 15:32   #12
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skwirrel meet forr sail

worning: maiy contane nutts






It reminded me of the meat pies that were sold during the war...50% horse and 50% chicken.

One horse mixed with one chicken.
Wow. You remember the war

Which war ?
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Old 26 October 2007, 15:41   #13
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Which war ?
Not tellin...

Anyway, me Dad used to tell me about it.
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Old 26 October 2007, 15:49   #14
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Right enough about wars, we have had plenty of them on here already.

Nasher whilst they may be difficult to get out again if water gets into the transom because its not sealed then getting the plywood out is going to be even more of a pain. Me? I would sikaflex them in with a big dollop and be done with.

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Old 26 October 2007, 15:51   #15
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Then, if your supplier is supplying ferritic/martensitic "stainless" as opposed to austenetic “stainless” for fasteners used in a marine environment I suggest he wants a good kick in the gonads… but be aware that extensive cold working can render even austenitic steels “magnetic”….
Jono
The supplier is supplying exactly what I've asked for, being a below decks componant.
Above deck spec is altogether different.
But both Stainless.

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Old 26 October 2007, 15:53   #16
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...whilst they may be difficult to get out again if water gets into the transom because its not sealed then getting the plywood out is going to be even more of a pain.
Do you leave your transom holes raw edged? Paint some resin down them with a water colour brush. It just takes 10mins. Sorted for ever.

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Old 26 October 2007, 16:01   #17
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Do you leave your transom holes raw edged?
Yep then cover bolts and washers in a big dollop of sealant, though I do accept lining the holes with a layer of resin would be good practise.

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Old 26 October 2007, 16:02   #18
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Do you leave your transom holes raw edged? Paint some resin down them with a water colour brush. It just takes 10mins. Sorted for ever.

Wish I had, but as usual was in too much of a rush to get the engine on.

I've always sealed them up with something, just wondered what others used.

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Old 26 October 2007, 18:47   #19
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Sika below the waterline, sillycoon above! As told to me by an ancient boatbuilder.
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Old 26 October 2007, 21:09   #20
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I use Sikaflex 221 rather than 291 though as it's more elastic (Think it's that way round!)
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