Teleflex Steering connection help

[redxpuser]

Thanks to everyone for their replies.
It seems my Old Blueband 20Hp shouldn't be too bad, if I can get it going.
Just changed all the carb/fuel pump gaskets, so nearly ready to try for the first time.
Any tips for starting please?
It also seems the tilt locks into place when in neutral, but unlocks when forward is selected - Is this correct , as there doesn;t seem to be any other way of operating the tilt.

[doggypaddle]

not sure, NOS4R2 will now for sure but that sounds right, locks down in neutral so you can yank the start cord without it kicking up, and in reverse for the same reason. free in forward gear so if you hit amything its free.

[9D280]

Originally Posted by redxpuser

Any tips for starting please?

Every engine will have it's favourite way of starting. If you;ve never run this one, I'd start off by trying choke only (some of the older mercs had an "enrichening valve" which rather than blocking the air adds more fuel). Mine refuses to start if I open the throttle even a bit, so on the assumption that yours is of a similar vintage I'd try choke, no throttle, pull a few times then gently open the throttle a bit at a time until you find the optimum place. then use that for all cold starts. It will inevitably need something different once warm, but unlikely the choke.

If after a few dozen pulls you see fuel & oil floating on the water behind, de-activate the choke, open the throttle and pull 'till it fires.

Originally Posted by redxpuser

It also seems the tilt locks into place when in neutral, but unlocks when forward is selected - Is this correct , as there doesn;t seem to be any other way of operating the tilt.

Almost sounds right. I wonder if your mechanism is slightly out of adjustment? Locked in reverse but unlocked in neutral / Forward is more normal. Doggypaddle may have a point about it kicking up tho'.

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by doggypaddle

not sure, NOS4R2 will now for sure but that sounds right, locks down in neutral so you can yank the start cord without it kicking up, and in reverse for the same reason. free in forward gear so if you hit amything its free.

Yeah that's right-and it's a miracle it still works as the bush usually dies that locks it in place in neutral/reverse. It's no big deal if it does though, as long as you remember not to rev it going backwards. You won't be able to go much above tickover in reverse anyway.

[redxpuser]

Thanks for that everyone, espescially Nos4R2 who seems to know this engine inside out !
Don't have a remote throttle or gear cable at the moment, so Starting for the first time will have to wait.
Would anyone have a diagram to show what I will need to connect remote cables to this engine ?
I already have a controller for dual cable, but does it need any brackets to keep the cable rigid at the engine end, ordoes the cables just pass through the holes and connect (somehow) to the operating levers for throttle and gears /
Thankyou again, I will add some pictures ASAP

[9D280]

Gears - Usually on the older smaller engines the gear shift was connected with a "T- pin" through the external gear lever and anchored to a bracket on the outside to hold the cable in place. Where the anchor goes varies form engine to engine. Unfortunately your pics are all of the other side! I had a quick look at the exploded view on Ishop, but don't have time to deep dive it - there may be an internal connection.

Your throttle looks like it has a similar arrangement to mine - on your second pic, towards the back of the enfgine there is a big silver lever. At the bottom end, is the thing that looks riveted on a kind of spruung cap over a pin? If so, that's where you connect the moving end. The anchor point I guess is either going to bolt on to that Big shiny bolt roughly under the bit of the link rod that seems to be holding a big shiny triangle down (don't you love the technical explanation... ) or onto an unused boss somewhere on the side of the block.

Nos will no doubt be along with better info soon, but if you look at the Teleflex / Ultraflex websites, you should be able to find the kit for your engine which will have the appropriate connectors (& if they are required, the fixings / anchors). That may help to give you a clue if there are pics.

[redxpuser]

Hi,
I am enclosing some pictures showing both sides of my Mercury engine, with the hope of finding out in more detail, how to fit remote control cables for throttle and gears. I hope the pictures are good enough, as my concerns are withwhat will keep the cables rigid.
Do I need extra brackets etc.
I have also included a picture showing the console I have made which houses the steering, with regard to the length of cables I need, my front control unit will be mounted at a distance of around 6 feet from the transom. Am I correct in assuming I will need 9 foot Mercury/Mariner cables ?
thank you,
Andy

[9D280]

If you could take a couple of pics looking forward from above at the front of the cowl, that might confirm what I'm looking at, as I am only going to suggest here based on the fact that design details are usually standard across a manufacturer's range, your throttle fixing is identical to mine, and my fitting kit came described as something like "all Mercs Pre 1980atcake".

Throttle.
Yep, that thing on the bottom of the lever is exactly the same as mine, so you need to pull it out slightly then swivel it to reveal a pin. drop the control rod end over that, clip it back in place.
As for anchoring it, assuming it's a similar setup to the clamshells, that big recess on the aluminium looking thing just below where the rod bends round the front to the carb might be what it locates in, and I guess if you had the tiller version whatever clip was there to hold it in has now gone or was never there in the first place. Mine's held in place with a couple of tie wraps! I guess there is a blanking cover / cable entry that goes in the big hole left by the tiller assembly. Check the tiller casting doesn't have a push- out or a screwed in blanking plate, or even a circular recess.

Gears.
Does that big cast hole on what looks like a lever attatched to the gearstick (inside the engine) move with the stick? if so, I guess the fitting on the end of the cable has a pin that goes in there & clips round the back of the casting to hold it in place.

Anchoring the cable, I suspect that hole to the left of the choke is where the gear cable goes. Again, if you havenlt taken a blanking plate out of there, you'll probably nedd to find the thing that fills that & has the anchor attatched. (although the fitting kit might come with that in the bag).

Have a trawl through some of the club sites linked here: http://www.vintageoutboard.com/Links/Links.html - the pics might help to fill in the gaps a bit.

Where's Nos when you need him?

[9D280]

Just used your other post with the serial number to check out Ishop.

Yes, those holes are where the cables are supposed to go through, however I couldn't find anything with a nice obvious name like "clamp, remote cable" however if it;s built to a similar design style as mine, the anchor point is probably integral to something else. (Mine's integral to the gear linkage bracket, and is described as such).

So, you're looking for a couple of recesses about 10-15mm dia, and about 10-12mm deep (I say that form memory) They'll be the nearest "round number" imperial equivalent.

On grounds that a picture speaks 10000 words, click on http://www.uflexusa.com/engine_c_cables.html and scroll down.
I used the K56 adaptor kit (scroll to the bottom) on a universal cable (granted, the cable was in the boat already), but you'll see what I mean about the anchoring lug. You'l lbe looking for a recess to take that lump, probably quite close to the front of the cowl and in line with the plane of swing of the lever (if that makes sense). If your cable doesn't have the lug, a K56 cost me (I think) about £15, then it's just a case of fitting it as per instructions & adjusting everything to be inthe right place.

[redxpuser]

Do link arms come in various lengths then ? If mine was 100mm longer, I would get full lock both ways.

[9D280]

Yep, and shapes....... The one I had with the Yam 55 was bent in 2 places to clear the body of the engine.

The other option (As hinted in the other thread) - would it be easier to build a new plate for the engine & offset the hole?

[ianplumpton]

Redxpuser, I have a newer 20hp Mercury and I am after the bracket that you have attached to your outboard and then to the steering link arm. Can you please let me know where you obtained this?

I have initiated a separate post in respect of the above.

Thanks, Ian