SR4 Retubing, PVC or Hypalon?

[Livid]

Hi all

I'm looking into getting my 1980s SR4 retubed as the original tubes are beginning to show their age, I'm going to use the next winter season for a major overhaul if I can afford it as the boat is beginning to show its age. Looking for new tubes I can see PVC or Hypalon, I know the originals are Hypalon but pvc is a hell of a lot cheaper. What ones should I be looking at? I want the boat to last a good while longer, it's a really enjoyable boat. Ive still got the side by side seating and a 40hp 2 stroke more reliable than a rock.
Also what other things should I look into doing whilst it's in the hands of my local inflatables specialist? I'm going to do a bit of electrical work because all 5 wires for auxiliary functions have all given up the ghost lmao, new seats, repaint the inside of the hull etc, should I look at strengthening the transom?
My uncle has a similar era searider and he's had the tubes redone and had some fiberglass gussets put in between the transom and the hull. I've noticed the hull flexes underfoot, which was a little unnerving, anything I can so to stiffen it up or is that just the way they are? If there is any structural work that should be done I want to do it now as I'm not going to get a better time to do it for a long time

[craig_c]

Hypalon all day everyday

Your boat will be more robust, easier to patch if needed and most importantly far far far easier to sell if you want to change.

Theres a reason you still have a 1980s searider with original tubes. Hypalon is just so tough!

When the tubes are off you should just go all out and strengthen all you can especially the transom. I had one turn to mush on me so if the time and money is there just get it done

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by craig_c

Hypalon all day everyday



Your boat will be more robust, easier to patch if needed and most importantly far far far easier to sell if you want to change.



Theres a reason you still have a 1980s searider with original tubes. Hypalon is just so tough!



When the tubes are off you should just go all out and strengthen all you can especially the transom. I had one turn to mush on me so if the time and money is there just get it done

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Wot he said

[jeffstevens763@g]

Hypalon but I know of a PVC boat that's 14 years old and still looks new which has had plenty of use you could look at it that you could retube again in PVC at a later date for not much more than hypalon would cost you

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Wot he said

Just out of curiosity, what’s the price difference between Hypalon & PVC?

[Livid]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Just out of curiosity, what’s the price difference between Hypalon & PVC?

Pvc tubes are about 2 grand, Hypalon is more like 5

[Livid]

Thanks a lot guys, I suspected Hypalon was the way to go but refreshing getting the confirmation, I hope I get this internship with BAE systems, might be another year until I can get together the coin lol.
As for structural stuff how would you guys go about it? Any way to get rid of that deck flex? I saw a searider with the transom rotted out from the inside, don't want my engine falling off on me

[nocando]

I would never stick 3k more in an SR4 on tubes. You will never see it back the other end.

I'm surprised at that cost difference TBH, have other quotes confirmed similar?

Hypalon is better but you can retube twice and be better off with PVC at those prices.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by nocando

I would never stick 3k more in an SR4 on tubes. You will never see it back the other end.

I'm surprised at that cost difference TBH, have other quotes confirmed similar?

Hypalon is better but you can retube twice and be better off with PVC at those prices.

With you on this I'm sure you can buy a new sr4 for about £8000
Under the zodiac brand now
http://www.ronhalemarine.co.uk/super...RIB_No_Console

[craig_c]

Originally Posted by Livid

Thanks a lot guys, I suspected Hypalon was the way to go but refreshing getting the confirmation, I hope I get this internship with BAE systems, might be another year until I can get together the coin lol.
As for structural stuff how would you guys go about it? Any way to get rid of that deck flex? I saw a searider with the transom rotted out from the inside, don't want my engine falling off on me

mine did that!

[Livid]

I'm not planning on making my money back, the boat's been in my family since new and I have no plan of selling it on ever. It's a fantastic boat for me and my family. Same reason I don't plan on buying a new one. I might have a look for a cheaper set of hypalon tubes. I just don't want to cheap out on the pvc tubes, have them let go 10 years down the line and then have trouble getting a new set yk?

[Livid]

Originally Posted by craig_c

mine did that!

Oh deary me, I had a pretty scary moment when I snapped one of the bolts for the stock transom supports drove home very carefully after that particular cockup

[Stevem]

I would think you could get hypalon tubes for less than 4k on an SR4 and worth doing if it's a keeper, (after you have sorted the deck out). Loads of info on here if you do a search about structural work though you will need to be quite handy.

[Livid]

Originally Posted by Stevem

I would think you could get Hypalon tubes for less than 4k on an SR4 and worth doing if it's a keeper, (after you have sorted the deck out). Loads of info on here if you do a search about structural work though you will need to be quite handy.

I see. I'm plenty handy, I am doing an engineering degree after all, I've worked with fibreglass before and am well versed with the searider, did a few patches on the inner hull when I pulled the fuel tank lugs through the floor after some enthusiastic driving. I'll see if I can find that info about the structural work, many thanks

[Livid]

wow you guys were right about the cost, found this site (https://www.ribretubes.co.uk/gallery) that does hypalon or PU tubes for 3.5k, apparently PU is even better than hypalon but i am unconvinced

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Livid

wow you guys were right about the cost, found this site (https://www.ribretubes.co.uk/gallery) that does hypalon or PU tubes for 3.5k, apparently PU is even better than hypalon but i am unconvinced

The difference in price should only be the difference in the material costs of Hypalon v PVC. The biggest cost will be labour & that will be similar for either material.

[GuyC]

The following is quite an interesting read.

https://www.powerboatandrib.com/2018...-of-rib-tubes/

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by Livid

wow you guys were right about the cost, found this site (https://www.ribretubes.co.uk/gallery) that does hypalon or PU tubes for 3.5k, apparently PU is even better than hypalon but i am unconvinced

Pu as opposed to pvc is definitely more abrasion resistant than hypalon and modern pu is supposed to not suffer in the way older pu boats did. That said I personally prefer hypalon just for the ease of working with it in the event of needing any repairs etc

[Livid]

Originally Posted by beamishken

Pu as opposed to pvc is definitely more abrasion resistant than hypalon and modern pu is supposed to not suffer in the way older pu boats did. That said I personally prefer hypalon just for the ease of working with it in the event of needing any repairs etc

ill think about it, i try and treat my rib a bit carefully, but lifespan is a very important consideration for me. PU seems to last a bit longer than hypalon but i'll have to do more research. I got quoted 3300 by those people for tubes and structural work which seems reasonable

[Livid]

I rarely beach my boat, that's why we make my youngest brother drive the SIB 1 mile haha, but i can get a bit overzealous when docking itso it cant be made from glass, i'm just trying to find the best balance