Show us your transom.

[Hugh Jardon]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Put yer cables above the deck. Tuck them under the tube a tie them off. Put the new deck down totally sealed with a bug in the well. No water inside the hull - ever. It may look a little less bling but you'll be safe in the knowledge that your hull will stay sound with no attention. Just look at all the stories on here where folk have water in hull problems - why risk it? Because it looks a bit prettier?

i am really surprised that you came up with that view. I would have thought that having under deck trunking is far superior to having cables etc above the deck being routed around the place and causing a hazzard as well as being more exposed to the elements or damage

if the trunking is done properly then you wont get water in the hull, unless there are holes in the trunking to allow water out of the trunks and into the hull.

I can not comment on humber or a porter hull being like a colander

[jwalker]

Mark, see that vertical edge along the tube flange, why don't you box it and route the services inside. They can swing out at the transom and be led neatly to the engine rather than sprouting out of the hull in all directions like an ungainly plant.

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon

I would have thought that having under deck trunking is far superior to having cables etc above the deck being routed around the place and causing a hazzard as well as being more exposed to the elements or damage..

I wasn't suggesting they be, 'routed around the place and causing a hazard'. It's quite possible to bring them out of the console through a tube pointing in the right direction for them to lay neatly under the boat's tube. They can be clipped into place and they bend tidily against the transom where they lead conveniently to the fuel filter and engine. The only ones which need to protrude a bit are the stiffer control cables. If necessary, cable protection is easily arranged. As I said, it aint what you do, it's the way that you do it.

[Mark Halliday]

Originally Posted by bedajim

For the fuel connection hydraulic bulkhead fittings in stainless + doughty seals with a couple of large washers glassed on to either side of the bulk head to give them something to lock up to. Or just a stainless socket welded to a plate and glassed in

Ah, now you are taking quality installation. What we have here is (and always be) a BWM (Better off Walking Mate). All I have is a bit of rubber hose and a spigot on the tank. A Jubilee clip was considered extravagent. You can just see it in the first picture above.
I was jus going to make sure the hose meets fresh air well above any water level this side of being sunk.

[Mark Halliday]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Mark, see that vertical edge along the tube flange, why don't you box it and route the services inside. They can swing out at the transom and be led neatly to the engine rather than sprouting out of the hull in all directions like an ungainly plant.

A cunning plan indeed. I could even use the other side of the flange where there is a 120mm shelf under the tube. A little bit of protection to stop chafing the tube and we might be in business.

[bedajim]

Originally Posted by Mark Halliday

Ah, now you are taking quality installation. What we have here is (and always be) a BWM (Better off Walking Mate). All I have is a bit of rubber hose and a spigot on the tank. A Jubilee clip was considered extravagent. You can just see it in the first picture above.
I was jus going to make sure the hose meets fresh air well above any water level this side of being sunk.

The plate and socket is the budget version

[Mark Halliday]

A solution pehaps?

I was looking at a mates Ribtec 655 yesterday, and I may have an answer.

He has a bit of rectangular trunking (extractor duct) on the underside of the deck from the front face of the well to under the console. It is sealed at both ends, so the inside of the duct is "outside" and it never opens into the bilge. As the deck is lower at the stern than the console, the water level in the well/on deck is always lower than the floor in the console. A pump in the well keeps the outboard end dry mosy of the time. The only time that I can see it being lower is if you are going down a big wave with a dead pump.

Any 655 owners out there got any comments?

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Mark Halliday

Any 655 owners out there got any comments?

Fitted out a Ribtec 535 with the same system, only they didn't mark were the underdeck trunk ended so had to guess where I put the hole cutter to access it It does work but the Ribtec ones didn't have much space and it's a tight bend if your using cable steering.

Pete

[Mark Halliday]

Originally Posted by Pete7

It does work but the Ribtec ones didn't have much space and it's a tight bend if your using cable steering.Pete

Cable steering? You want me to bin my SeaStar?

Cunning plan in hand for engine control bends.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FD56400.html

[BruceB]

My trunk ends above the deck at both ends, the worst that can happen is that the trunk gets full of water as it isn't possible for the trunk to flood the hull. The external connector at the transom is about 3 inches above deck level topped by a "hat".
On a small boat I did find the above deck cables such a pain that I wanted rid of them even having done them in the way JW suggests. It was the obvious way to do them in any case. The picture shows how much room it took up on what was a very small boat for diving.
They still needed to get across to the tubes and the loom always got in my way.
Humbers always have a little water in the hull in my experience after use, every one I have every used or owned always had a small amount inside from various sources.
Once main source I found was with anchor well, this drains to the hull and then out into the well so each day you use it any wet rope or hatch leakage has to run down the length of the hull to drain when the plugs are taken out.

[Mark Halliday]

Bruce
Your trunk is more or less how things were before it all went rotten. There is a photo of the old arangement further back.
I am trying to find a way of smoothing out the throttle and gear cable routes because of the significant and sharp bends at the transom. Its amazing how much smoother the throttle was after it had been freed from its old constraints.
The thing I like about the open trunking is that it will fill with water for part of its length, it may even flood the console if things get very bad, but it does not onvolve a hole straight into the bilge. Empty the sump, and the whole thing is self draining. There is are no "U" bends or traps to hold water/sand/ham sandwiches/sweet wrappers etc.
I used to get water in the bilge, some which which was from wet anchor warps and some was through old leaking hatch seals, but most was from a really poor fuel pipe exit and poor/non-existant support at the deck/transom joint.

[BruceB]

I am beginning to think we are all talking slightly at cross purposes now?
To recap. My last RIB had above deck looming and on a very small boat used for diving it was a pain. control cables to route around everything and go along under the tubes meant quite a few bends and it was a pain taking up a fair amount of what was limited deck space exiting the console.
New boat has 4" trunk with raised spigot forward of the well, no access from trunk into hull as it is sealed off with only opening to above deck level. Water cannot get into the hull via the trunk. because of positioning runs for cables are brilliant and could not be better unless run down middle of deck on surface. The only issue is possibly in certain circumstances the console could have some water entering via any leaks into the trunk from the rear "hat" but I have fitted a "hat" to the exit point in the console to limit this and this part of the console is only wet storage, all dry stuff is on a shelf mid way up the console via another witches hat.
Nothing is perfect but I am happy with it.
mark, I reckon your control routing problems were mostly caused by the exit point too close to the transom requiring a double reverse bend to get into the outboard?

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by BruceB

On a small boat I did find the above deck cables such a pain that I wanted rid of them even having done them in the way JW suggests. ....The picture shows how much room it took up on what was a very small boat for diving.

Not guilty. That's nothing like what I was suggesting and I can understand why you wouldn't want that arrangement.

Humbers always have a little water in the hull in my experience after use, every one I have every used or owned always had a small amount inside from various sources.

I must have been lucky with mine. My Destroyer was so well sealed it popped when the bung was removed.

[Downhilldai]

Originally Posted by Mark Halliday

A solution pehaps?

I was looking at a mates Ribtec 655 yesterday, and I may have an answer.

He has a bit of rectangular trunking (extractor duct) on the underside of the deck from the front face of the well to under the console. It is sealed at both ends, so the inside of the duct is "outside" and it never opens into the bilge. As the deck is lower at the stern than the console, the water level in the well/on deck is always lower than the floor in the console. A pump in the well keeps the outboard end dry mosy of the time. The only time that I can see it being lower is if you are going down a big wave with a dead pump.

Any 655 owners out there got any comments?

Mark: How will this solve your fuel hose problem?

[Mark Halliday]

Originally Posted by BruceB

I reckon your control routing problems were mostly caused by the exit point too close to the transom requiring a double reverse bend to get into the outboard?

Spot-on. It is just the engine controls that I want to straighten out. All the other cables and pipes are easy to route.

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Mark: How will this solve your fuel hose problem?

It won't. I am still going to run the fuel hose out through the front wall of the well, but this time it will go through a round Index Marine cable gland, which should be a bit more effective than a large hole and some silicone.

Re. Over deck routing. It probably is the most simple installation, but I have never been known for making life easy for myself.

[kwil]

Mark
Here is a picture of mine cable runs probably it is very similar to your original configuration as it was built by Porters, you can probably see the builders plate in the picture.

I have never had any problem with the control cables being stiff, although I did get water in the trunking until I discovered that the tophat had only been shown the sealant gun before it was screwed in place, I have resealed it and all is now well.

I have also fitted a watertight inspection hatch so that I can check the inside of the trunk every now and then. I can be seen at the left of the picture.

Keith

[Mark Halliday]

Keith
Thanks for that.
It is a very similar arangement to mine. It even looks like the same top hat moulding.
I think Bruce is right about it being too far aft, but if I bring the whole shooting match forward it is even more in the way.
Also I found it was difficult to clean around as you can probably tell from the picture.

[kwil]

Hi Mark

I agree that it is a pain to clean round, but even with the tight bends I have no binding in the cables, so maybe the binding is a symptom of the cables are past their best and will soon need replacing. Moving the tophat may only be delaying the day when replacement becomes nessecary.
My cables were replaced when the engine was, which was only 2 years ago and the originals only did a couple of years. It could be that the tight bends are shortening the life of the cables and I have never had the cables long enough to find out.

Keith

[PeterM]

BHG in Lymington rigged my AVON with an ace bit of Stainless trunking- they said it is bit of 'exhaust stub' from a 'BIG' boat. Cant post pics as file size too big for site & I cant shrink them. Run inside consile inside std bit of PVC drain pipe (bonded in) under floor & up stainless pipe- (bonded & screwed). Topped off with hypalon wrap. Unless I put 8 inches of water in the boat nothing goes down. Looks very bling & never going to break if it gets walked into ! In a small Rib it has to be underfloor.....................

[martini]

Originally Posted by martini

I'm shortly going to make a stainless plate which will screw to my deck a foot or 2 forward of the engine. On to the plate I'm going to weld a bit of tube at a 60 degree angle which my rigging hose will attach to. This should allow my cables to exit the deck pointing pretty much straight at the motor. I'll post pics when I'm done and you'll see what I mean!

As promised!

http://ribworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23520&page=8