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Old 16 July 2010, 11:41   #21
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This is all very helpful indeed.

I stupidly took the automatic release valve appart to see why it was leaking air (what a bad move this was!!) lol
Basicallt the rubber seal in it has been pinched at somestage and needs a new one. I have bodged it back together for now so that I can pump it up now that I have cleaed and tightened all the valves to see how long it stays up for.

Pumped it up last night, today the nose has lost a little but the main tubes feel ok at present.


Hmmm Still goes down in a few days over all tubes. More investigation required me thinks!!

Is there anyone in the Bristol area that anyone could recommend for me to get it looked at for a proffessional quote to get it ship shape?
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Old 16 July 2010, 16:25   #22
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Hmmm Still goes down in a few days over all tubes. More investigation required me thinks!!

Is there anyone in the Bristol area that anyone could recommend for me to get it looked at for a proffessional quote to get it ship shape?
Pro work on it is going to be expensive. If you haven't already paid for the boat (800 wasn't it?), don't even consider it as for the purchase price+tube repair you could buy a better, ready to run 4m Searider. It'd be basic (no power trim, crap trailer, no electronics, old engine) but still a far better buy.
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Old 16 July 2010, 16:35   #23
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Pro work on it is going to be expensive. If you haven't already paid for the boat (800 wasn't it?), don't even consider it as for the purchase price+tube repair you could buy a better, ready to run 4m Searider. It'd be basic (no power trim, crap trailer, no electronics, old engine) but still a far better buy.

Cheers buddy, I havent paid anything for it yet as I am waiting to see if he will accept my offer (much less than £800) lol. If he does go for it I could be paying as little as £200 for it.

I have started looking at the engine tonight, again I dont want to spend anything on it until I know I am having or not, but basics required would be fuel line.
I will have a look but it there a thread on Mercury engines for set up wiring etc?
I found it does have a starter motoe on it, with a single lead (Im guessing this will be 12V power) but the engine kill switch is not there so I would know how to turn it off!! lol I really am a complete novice!
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Old 16 July 2010, 17:37   #24
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Well, £200 would be more like it, but here's the rub as far as I see it:-

It's worth £200. However, (in my opinion) it's only worth that because you could offload it to someone else for that.

If the engine is ok,and assuming you buy new, it's going to cost you £240ish just for the cables to the engine and steering cable+draglink(I assume all 3 are scrap?).
The cowl front will pop up eventually on Ebay for a couple of quid. However, the engine is mid '70s so even if it's fantastic it's not worth more than a couple of hundred quid.
You'll need a trailer-that one looks very much like scrap.

Now work out how much you want to spend on tube repairs.
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Old 16 July 2010, 17:53   #25
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Thank you so much for your help.

The tubes are Hypertext.

I think you are right, its too much for a begineer, especially when the guys hasnt given me a price yet. I know he paid £800 at auction and as it is, I would not want to give much more than £100 with the work that needs to be done.
I think it is save up a few more pennies and get one running and ready to go. There isnt even a winch on the trailer and it doesnt sit well on the trailer.
I will post up some pics shortly.

And you want to risk your sons on something like this? I have read the your start post on here. Walk away - go and buy something that is safe, be prepared to pay for it. Starting off by saying you are only prepared to spend £100 because of the work that's needed says it all.
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Old 16 July 2010, 18:01   #26
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And you want to risk your sons on something like this? I have read the your start post on here. Walk away - go and buy something that is safe, be prepared to pay for it. Starting off by saying you are only prepared to spend £100 because of the work that's needed says it all.

Fair comment, but I just love to tinker! lol.

If I can find the leak and sort it, it could be saved. If the guy doesnt accept my offer then it is going back anyway.
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Old 17 July 2010, 02:55   #27
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Fair comment, but I just love to tinker! lol.
You'll find plenty to do on even a 'ready to go' boat unless it's had thousands of pounds and many hours spent on it
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Old 01 September 2010, 11:03   #28
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The guy has accepted £100 which is fair in my opinion, as I can spend a little time and effort (and help on here) to get it back in the water.

I have had the engine running and started doing the water pump, but there are a few bits I need to find so if there is anyone in the know and has Merc blueband 20hp bits, or steering and throttle bits, give me a shout.

As far as the front seam on the rib then I am going to have to find someone local who can repair that and fit a new auto relief valve as I just cant get thet bad boy back together and besides the rubber in it is damaged (which is why it leaked in the first place.

Do you think I have done the right thing by buying it for £100?? I think I have something to work on now at least.
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Old 01 September 2010, 11:27   #29
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Do you think I have done the right thing by buying it for £100??
No
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Old 01 September 2010, 11:39   #30
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No
I agree.

However, it could be a shrewd move. Get the engine running, take it off and sell the boat and engine separately on Ebay and you'll probably get enough to buy a restorable SR4.
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Old 01 September 2010, 11:48   #31
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ok, will do.
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Old 09 September 2010, 13:36   #32
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Sorry guys, Im sure you have had enough of me already but basically for £100 this will be my learning and training experience, so if it fails then I havent lost alot if it works out then I have a rib worth not much anyway!! lol

So I thought I would have a look at this leaking seam today. Effectively where is has been left out for years flat its just come unglued, I was able to just peal off by hand the front protection strips, handles, protective strips. Then it came to the patches over the seam again the black cover came off really easy, then the white rubbery strip over that. The seam is just gone. there is a blue (very flimsy) inner strip which is hardly stuck at all.
I also removed two massive lumps of expandable foam.
For any reason (appart from badly attempted repairs) should there ever be expandable foam in the chambers??

I have pulled the seam back to the chamber wall which has also come unstuck.
As I have gone this far, I am actually contemplating completely removing the tubes altogether as they would need re-doing anyway and I think it may be easier for me when it comes to regluing.

On the main seam, is it worth me PVC welding the seam after I have glued the inside seam and before I glue the outside cover?? I have access to the equipment.

Is there a resto section on here?? dont expect a quick job as I am currently restoring a VW beetle which has to take priority right now.



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Old 10 September 2010, 03:28   #33
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There are two ways of looki ng at this:

1) The DHD way

2) You have just bought a half price engine with free boat. Worst case, if the hull is scrap, you can punt the engine and be at worst no worse off.

Solent Ranger has a very valid point, but, at the same time, My hull / engine were semi unknown when I bought mine, and so far not even Mrs 9D has not been out in it. (and just as well, beacuse as you all know, the engine destroyed itself). Only once I am happy it's reliable will I happily take the family out.

As you say, it's a good cheap way to learn. And the more you have to do to it, the better you'll know your boat in the event that something goes the way of the pear when out on the river.
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Old 10 September 2010, 07:59   #34
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You have just bought a half price engine with free boat. Worst case, if the hull is scrap, you can punt the engine and be at worst no worse off.
I think we all suspect that old Gungey is going to spend hours (& £s) trying to repair the toobs, before arriving at the conclusion that the whole exercise is unworthwhile. Then he may move onto trying to recoup some of the funds by going down the 'flog the motor' route, at which stage, the old tub will probably eat more of Gungey's cash getting the motor to run & in a saleable condition. After all this, I wonder then whether the total financial 'investment' could be recovered, irrespective of what value he puts on his time.
Hopefully, I'm wrong.
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Old 10 September 2010, 12:28   #35
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I totally know where you are coming from and I have always been one of these people who take things appart to see how they work (irrispective as the whether they every go back together and work or not!!)lol.

Hell, it will keep me busy and hopefully I can learning something from it (not by buy knackered old Rhibs!!)

The gluing work does sound like a bit of a job and finding the supopliers of the correct materials locally so that I can pick brains at the same time. I was quite supprised at the internal seam material being so flimsy when all the other seams use a nice thick PVC strip.

Hay ho, I will give it a go. one thing is for sure, I will be posting my victories and failers on here for some time to come!!

Sorry!!

But I am right in thinking there should not be the contents of about 4 tubes of expandable foam in the tubes arent I?
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Old 10 September 2010, 12:34   #36
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But I am right in thinking there should not be the contents of about 4 tubes of expandable foam in the tubes arent I?
Yes!
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Old 26 September 2010, 17:38   #37
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Starting the realise the extent of the mamouth task ahead of me!! lol

I have now stripped off most of the outer seal protection from the rib and got down to the seal, I still have a few more bits to go before I start de-seaming, but the amount of old glue and bodged seal reapairs is extensive and the MEK (which I thought would get rid of the glue easily doesnt!!) lol.
I found a company that makes MEK so I was able to buy lots of it at a good price. (I think I may end up needing more than the 7.5ltrs I have!! lol.
I am going to try and heat gun some of the really thick glue to soften it before using the MEK next time. I figure if I just do a little at a time over a long period it wont seem so bad!!
I think I will have to remove the tubes from the rib to do a good job repairing it. It is already coming away from the fibreglass hull in some places and holding sludgy water in there, so it would have to be done anyway.
I will keep you updated as I do more.
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Old 27 September 2010, 06:54   #38
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I am going to try and heat gun some of the really thick glue to soften it before using the MEK next time. I figure if I just do a little at a time over a long period it wont seem so bad!!
I know you know this - but find a safe way to have a heat gun and MEK on the same job....
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Old 27 September 2010, 07:42   #39
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I know you know this - but find a safe way to have a heat gun and MEK on the same job....
lol, yeah apparently it is a little on the flammable side!! lol

If I never post on here again then you will know the outcome!! lol

I know its a monster of a task but in my eyes, if it works then I have a good solid Rib, if it doesnt then I have a lovely fibreglass garden ornament that I can make a water feature out of!!!
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Old 27 September 2010, 13:23   #40
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I know you know this - but find a safe way to have a heat gun and MEK on the same job....
Or, if its insured
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