Securing an anchor with no locker

AndrewH · 07 December 2006, 11:58

I'm looking for some sensible suggestions of how to secure an anchor in the bow of my Ribtec. There is no anchor locker there, but there is a ridge along the deck that has two reasonable size holes drilled through, that I could use to "tie" the anchor to the deck. I'd really like to keep the anchor in the bow for both convenience, and the weight of chain + anchor helping to keep the nose down
All bright ideas

gratefully received

Andrew

vince · 07 December 2006, 12:10

Obviously havn`t seen your rib, but wouldnt it be just as easy to install an after-market type sealed locker in the space at the bow? Then you got space for other stuff as well as the anchor? Just a thought...

AndrewH · 07 December 2006, 12:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by vince

but wouldnt it be just as easy to install an after-market type sealed locker in the space at the bow?

Good idea - have you got any links to ones that you'd recommend

Thanks

Andrew

BogMonster · 07 December 2006, 12:56

Mine is just secured to the internal bow eye with a short bit of cord so it could bounce around if you really hit something but it can't escape! So far I have never seen it move though.

Narcosis · 07 December 2006, 13:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by vince

Obviously havn`t seen your rib, but wouldnt it be just as easy to install an after-market type sealed locker in the space at the bow? Then you got space for other stuff as well as the anchor? Just a thought...

I'd also be interrested in hearing about after market bow locker. Any ideas about who does these.

David

Tim M · 07 December 2006, 14:42

Andrew do you have a pic of your ridged bit?

Ive just bought a Ribtec 585 which has something similar to what you describe. Its basically an anchor locker without a top. Im planning to make a top for it out of flow-coated marine ply, then put a big-ish hatch in the middle for access.

AndrewH · 07 December 2006, 16:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim M

Andrew do you have a pic of your ridged bit?

Ive just bought a Ribtec 585 which has something similar to what you describe. Its basically an anchor locker without a top. Im planning to make a top for it out of flow-coated marine ply, then put a big-ish hatch in the middle for access.

I'll get a pic this evening - weather and rain permitting. However I suspect that your ridge is a good bit more beefy than the one in my rib. Mine is little more than a couple of inches off the deck

Andrew

Kernow Buoy · 07 December 2006, 16:51

Andrew, are you really going to send me out in the dark and the rain to take a pic of mine with a locker installed?

Kernow Buoy · 07 December 2006, 18:46

oh well, any excuse for a fiddle!

AndrewH · 07 December 2006, 19:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kernow

Andrew, are you really going to send me out in the dark and the rain to take a pic of mine with a locker installed?

You're as bad as I am!! Here's my efforts at nighttime bow photography.

Now that I've had a second look I can see the ridge is nearer 6" deep rather than the 2" that I originally commented. Yeah I know - that's why women can't park

. Anyway, that means the "convert it to a bow locker" idea is now much more viable.

Andrew

Across the Pond · 07 December 2006, 19:23

I guy I work with has a sheet metal shop in the family. I picked up a partial sheet of 5052 alum. and went to work cutting and TIG welding this locker for my RIB. Total cost about $250 US. It allows for a spot for the anchor with the line in a place where it can dry. Also I get a bunch of storage space I needed for life jackets, dock line, etc. Another benefit is the bow weight.

mike · 07 December 2006, 22:10

hi My friend had the same issue and had to accomodate a 16kilo bruce with chain etc. Also wanted the thing at the bow.

He made a simple metal plate for both sides and welded 2 threaded bolts where he wanted to mount the anchor ie the flat surface. onto one of them.
He then bolted the back plate and face plate thru the verticle bit you show before attaching the anchor (which had 2 corresponding holes) via 2 wing nuts (GREASED THREAD) HE ALSO attached a small spanner in case of rust.

It stayed there with heavy use over 300 hours and came out in 5 mins or less also meant the chan was around it in the well at the front so weight well forward.

it sounds complex but was easy and cheap. (less than a tenneras we welded it ourselves. silka flex was in the garage already but would have added only £7.00 or so to the job).
We hammerited it white 4 coats and it never rusted.

vince · 08 December 2006, 11:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewH

You're as bad as I am!! Here's my efforts at nighttime bow photography.

Now that I've had a second look I can see the ridge is nearer 6" deep rather than the 2" that I originally commented. Yeah I know - that's why women can't park

. Anyway, that means the "convert it to a bow locker" idea is now much more viable.

Andrew

I`d think some good half inch marine ply and some good glassing would do the trick nicely. Put in a hatch cover and you`d think it was built like that originaly. Plus a good feature with the drain holes already in!

Kernow Buoy · 08 December 2006, 12:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by vince

I`d think some good half inch marine ply and some good glassing would do the trick nicely. Put in a hatch cover and you`d think it was built like that originaly. Plus a good feature with the drain holes already in!

That would be ideal Andrew, my anchor locker was not original and hasn't got the drain holes, the 5.35 hasn't much deck space and being able to stand on the locker without too much fear of tripping is a bonus.

AndrewH · 08 December 2006, 14:41

Vince and Kernow: Thanks guys sounds like a good suggestion and yes you are right it would have some built in drainage. Only problem would be the like about "some good glassing" - hmmmm - not my strong point

.

Would you suggest laying the marine ply in first and then applying the CSM over the top, then resin and build up in layers?

Also how would you recommend preparing the surfaces of the preexisiting gelcoat on the deck. Is it OK to rough up with some coarse 'ish wet 'n' dry and then clean with acetone or do I need to go down to the base resin?

Finally the final top coat of gelcoat will need wax solution to turn it into flowcoat but what's the best way of applying it, brush - roller (- plaster's trowel

)

Thanks again guys

Andrew

pathalla · 10 December 2006, 03:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Across the Pond

I guy I work with has a sheet metal shop in the family. I picked up a partial sheet of 5052 alum. and went to work cutting and TIG welding this locker for my RIB. Total cost about $250 US. It allows for a spot for the anchor with the line in a place where it can dry. Also I get a bunch of storage space I needed for life jackets, dock line, etc. Another benefit is the bow weight.

good practical solution there, I have a similar arrangement on my boat regarding the anchor. It makes good sense to have the anchor on deck ready to deploy, few anchors are easy to dig out of any locker, especially so if it is rough out. Nice welding job!