Searider Repairs and Improvements

Nathan k · 22 January 2012, 20:43

Hi all

Will be finishing my Searider project in the next few weeks. Bit late for a thread but after a recent discovery a might as well do it now...

What I have done so far

-New bilge pump wire
-new battery connectors, cable and isolator
-Installed and wired a Tri Navigation light
-used wire from the old gps to connect the compass red light
-Moved backrest forward, reduces weight increasing speed and improving fuel consumption ...Basically only one person can sit on the seat...also acts a great leaning post
-Installed Garmin 551 chartplotter
-30 litre fuel tank with a top of the range bungee and zip tie securing system

All electrics are wired to a 6 switch panel (horn, vhf still to be wired)

Still to do

The tubes (not sure what material they are?) need to be re painted. it really shows how key prep is, repainted under two years ago. The old paint is flaking already in some places.

Tubes will also need new valves, A patch and the Rubbing strake re glued. agian clearly wasn't prepped properly when put on!

The hull damage was caused by a badly judged car recovery. The gash at the front was repair exposed by the grounding. I have started sanding hence all the missing paint and removed cracked gel coat, I also ripped all the old repair work off. My plan is use two part epoxy filler to fill all the chips and dings and the inside of the gash. I will then fiberglass it over restoring the original shape and use plenty of epoxy resin to finish off before re painting.

Oh and another 30l upfront still needs to be installed...

I have Zero experience really with anything like this. I learnt everything about wiring from internet guides so advice on how to repair is very helpful

Nathan

Nos4r2 · 22 January 2012, 21:11

Ouch!

Tubes are Hypalon.

Nathan k · 22 January 2012, 21:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Ouch!

Tubes are Hypalon.

Thanks!

Nos4r2 · 22 January 2012, 21:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nathan k

Thanks!

No prob.

You need to go round the whole boat looking for rusty bolts and replacing them with A4 or 316 grade stainless looking at that pic of the A-frame where it's bolted into the transom. Do it as a priority too-rust will flake and allow water into the transom core.

Ian M · 22 January 2012, 21:22

Not sure that I have the right perspective on that hull damage, where abouts is it?

Ian M · 22 January 2012, 21:24

Ah, see it now. Me thinks you need to think carefully about that repair.

Nathan k · 22 January 2012, 21:30

Luckily I some bolts that I think will fit providing I cut them down a bit. Not sure how long the A-frame has been there but i'd say around 2005. I guess I am very lucky to still have a solid transom!

skippermarky · 22 January 2012, 21:57

Nathan, is it my eyes? or is that crack all along the keel? Please put up some more Pics of the hull matey, then we can all hopefully give you the write advice

Ian M · 22 January 2012, 22:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by skippermarky

Nathan, is it my eyes? or is that crack all along the keel? Please put up some more Pics of the hull matey, then we can all hopefully give you the write advice

That is the way I see it. We all know what that means for a good long term repair

Nathan k · 22 January 2012, 22:12

yes it's along the keel. what does that mean

I'll take some more pics tomorrow

skippermarky · 22 January 2012, 22:20

Dont panic yet matey, get us more pics, a lot of guys on hear have many years expierence, and we like to see young people, making a huge effort to get some where, we will help, you take the pics first, and then we can see whats to be done

skippermarky · 22 January 2012, 22:21

ps, dont put any more filler in it yet

Nathan k · 22 January 2012, 22:24

Ok will do, thanks mate

ribraff · 22 January 2012, 22:32

Is this still a flooding Hull? It looks like there is some kind of Keelband on there too?
I have seen a few of these SR4's which have a pretty skinny lay-up on them and that will need to be dealt with properly by stripping it down and rebuilding it. There are two methods I can think of
No. 1

Strip everything off and turn the Hull upside down
Remove the Keelband
Cut away any loose parts of the keel GRP with a Grinder
Sheath over the Keel with GRP or Epoxy
Fair in with a suitable epoxy compound to the lower sprayrail
Repaint

No.2

Remove the Console
Cut a hole in the Deck
Remove all loose parts of the Keel GRP
Glass in to make the Keel nice and strong in GRP or Epoxy
Replace deck section and glass sheath
Turn upside down and fill gaps with suitable filler
Fair and repaint

I have vastly simplified the explanation of these two methods and would be happy to give you more detailed guidance on both of these procedures if required.

Nathan k · 22 January 2012, 22:53

not sure what a keel band is? it was a flooding hull but has been blocked up.

I had not had any problems up untill the damage revealed the old patch, how long would a fill,glass then epoxy resin job last? i simply don't have the time/facility or knowledge to undertake a job like that.

Poly · 22 January 2012, 22:54

ribraff - are you suggesting this is a repair on a SR4 that cannot be fixed simply using duck tape?

If it is as bad as it looks then a less scrupulous person might be tempted to fill it with sealant, stick some metal keel guard over it and pop the boat on ebay...

ribraff · 22 January 2012, 23:05

It sure looks that way!! I don't think the Force (Gaffa Tape) will be strong enough for this one.

Nathan, did you see any water coming out when you recovered it onto the trailer?
I hate to be the bearer of bad tidings but it looks as though you may have to bite the bullet and find someone local to you who can repair it as it will only cause problems if used like this.

Ian M · 23 January 2012, 08:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nathan k

not sure what a keel band is? it was a flooding hull but has been blocked up.

I had not had any problems up untill the damage revealed the old patch, how long would a fill,glass then epoxy resin job last? i simply don't have the time/facility or knowledge to undertake a job like that.

Actually, with the balls that you have shown so far, I think that you could do it. I would be tempted to go for the lifting the console, cutting through the deck and making good from the inside approach (obviously finishing the outer gelcoat as well). BUT, I am not a Searider expert

biffer · 23 January 2012, 08:38

Do it from the inside and then tidy up the outside. If you remove anything from the outside first you will have no datum to work to.
Have a go. If you get it wrong then let someone else do it. Whoever does it will have to cut the floor and do the grinding. If you do it then that's a bonus for you

sent from a remote device

Boats&Outboards · 23 January 2012, 09:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polwart

ribraff - are you suggesting this is a repair on a SR4 that cannot be fixed simply using duck tape?

If it is as bad as it looks then a less scrupulous person might be tempted to fill it with sealant, stick some metal keel guard over it and pop the boat on ebay...

By the look of those pictures Isn't that what happened when he bought it. Only difference was it was put on Ribnet, not eBay!

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007