sea rider Valve

[matt h]

what is the Best Design Transom Valve that is Available?? i have heard of a few Models and designs but not sure where to start trying, also how to block the two holes on the Bow,, any ideas???

[Tomas]

There was a thread on this. Basically they just layered Hypalon to the thickness to make it stiff and one guy used an adhesived strip to attach it above the hole, another showed screws.

I'm not sure you'd want to block the bow holes. I have a 4.7 SeaRider and although I have yet to decide to shutter the rear hole, the front holes are necessary to flood the hull so it rides properly in the water when still.

The problem is when one slows and water enters the hull through the transom drain. If you just wanted to slow or were in a sharp turn this ballasts the hull when you don't want it to be ballasted. The block is a flap that allows water to exit, just not enter. I don't think you get much ballast too rapidly through the front holes unless you really settle down on the water.

Just my opinion of what I understand about what others did and how my boat operates...

Tomas

[Nos4r2]

Thread is here:-

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...highlight=flap

[bedajim]

Originally Posted by matt h

what is the Best Design Transom Valve that is Available?? i have heard of a few Models and designs but not sure where to start trying, also how to block the two holes on the Bow,, any ideas???

The guy I sold mine to wanted to block the flooding hull so I made him two stainless disks about 70 mm od for the front holes and glued a bolt onto each so they would stay in position while the sikaflex dried (bolt locates in hole so disk can't slip)

For the transom hole I made a square plate so he could fix it on with sikaflex and four self taping screws, that would of been better with a bung in to let any water out that may get into the hull

Something like this, ebay number 160040357260

Nos4r2 made the opening flap design

James

[MikeCC]

It depends what you're trying to do.

1. Slow down the intake of water into the flooding hull and still being able to let it escape under way
or
2. Seal the hull completely

For 1, don't seal the bow holes because this is where the air comes in to displace the water. Otherwise you'll just end up with a vaccuum and the water will take an age to drain. As above, there's been some threads on this for various flap arangements.

For 2, you can use 1" bungs of some sort for the bow holes. For the stern hole, you could use an inspection hatch screwed and glued (Sikaflex). You may still get ingress of water and you might want to install a bilge pump in the void. A Rule 500 auto will just fit in (not the round one, the rectangular with rounded ends type)

[Nos4r2]

I originally did my flap arrangement because I was having trouble with the 10 knot speed limit in Poole.
I'd go from 6 knots to 15 and back to 6 as the hull drained then refilled when I hit a small wave-and all on the same throttle setting. It was a pain in the neck.

Now it doesn't feel like I'm climbing out of a hole when I throttle up from a tight turn and the planing time out of a tight turn or after dropping off the plane momentarily is greatly improved. I would have had serious problems getting back after the Yarmouth meet if my flooding hull had filled every time I slowed down.

[IANK]

I managed to seal the front holes on my searider 5.4 with 1" rubber bungs tapped in with a ribber mallet and then cut flush to the hull.

For the rear drain hole I purchased a bung from Polymarine @Llandudno Junction. I can't remember the name of the manufacturer but it worked by having a back plate against the thick rubber which was screwed and forced to compress and expand to fill the hole - simple and very effective. I never had any water entering the hull. (I think I paid about £10 for it about 5 years ago)

I found the boat much quicker on to the plane and significantly cheaper to run with very little loss of stability because the sponsons are already quite close to the water.