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Old 12 May 2025, 05:48   #1
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Rusty fuel sender plate on top of fuel tank

Hi all any advice on where to source a fuel sender plate for a 2005 Ribeye?

This isn’t looking that wonderful so thought I’d get on it sooner rather than later.

I’m not expecting an easy extraction!
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Old 12 May 2025, 06:47   #2
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I’m in the process of trying to remove my fuel sender. No luck so far! On to a chisel now. I may try a heat gun on it next in case it has sealant bonding it in.
My tank has not been used for some time so is quite empty and I’m trying to re use it again.
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Old 12 May 2025, 08:04   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gazzago View Post
I’m in the process of trying to remove my fuel sender. No luck so far! On to a chisel now. I may try a heat gun on it next in case it has sealant bonding it in.
My tank has not been used for some time so is quite empty and I’m trying to re use it again.
Do let me know how you get on, my tank is in use so maybe a heat gun might be a problem for me :-)
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Old 12 May 2025, 09:37   #4
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The only way I would attempt to remove those #2 Phillips screws is with a "Manual Impact Driver". Spray the heck out of them with a penetrating oil and let it soak a day or two before attempting removal. I would also remove the plastic outer ring to create more clearance before beginning removal and possibly replace the ring/hatch as they are not expensive.

If they won't come out cut the heads off, and use vise grips to get the stud out post removal. If that doesn't work you can drill and tap all new holes in a different position.

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Old 12 May 2025, 16:30   #5
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I had the same problem with my a600. I drove 70 miles to Ribeye factory for help and to buy new parts ! They did not want to know and were not interested in helping me.
I had a new hat made and zinc coated.
Needless to say i did not buy another Ribeye after that experience
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Old 13 May 2025, 23:15   #6
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I had the same problem with my a600. I drove 70 miles to Ribeye factory for help and to buy new parts ! They did not want to know and were not interested in helping me.
That’s pretty poor. I know they’ve moved into the super yacht tender market, but even though.

Back to Nick, I wouldn’t be using heat for obvious reasons.

Peter’s suggestion of an impact driver with liberal dousing of PlusGas is a good shout. You can use wire brush attachment on a drill to remove loose rust first. You get one or two decent shots at the impact driver. Irwin carbide drill bits are the dog’s danglies if you need to go down that route afterwards
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Old 14 May 2025, 21:00   #7
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Thanks all really appreciated, I’m going to clean up and remove as much of rust this weekend to see how it looks
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Old 14 May 2025, 21:37   #8
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Thanks all really appreciated, I’m going to clean up and remove as much of rust this weekend to see how it looks
Don't spend much time cleaning as you will be throwing the rusty parts in the trash. Not a bad idea to use a pick and remove some of the gunk in the screw heads, but that is as far as I would go. Change the fuel line with a new SAE J1527, or equivalent for your country, all the way to back by pulling a new one in from the front or the back. Sometimes they can be pinched on top of the fuel tank so make sure the fuel line slides around before cutting into it or damaging it. Also poke around with a bright flashlight to see what is going on inside the fuel tank, after you remove the fuel level sensor.

An impact driver will either break them loose or break them. Either way it is working towards a solution
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Old 14 May 2025, 21:40   #9
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Replace the complete unit. Mine rusted on the fuel pick up pipe where it joined the plate
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Old 14 May 2025, 23:02   #10
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Thanks again all.

I have a drop of phosphorus acid left that I’d used prev with good results so thought I’d give it a go to expose screws a bit more if nothing else..

Playtime would you mind sharing where you got your plate manufactured? And thanks for the measurements I’ll A/B against mine but guess it’s probably the same.

I don’t know much about the build under the hull as haven’t got any related documentation and it’s my first Ribeye.

Does the fuel pipe run continuous from the fuel connector on rusty top hat up thru console and back thru the bilge ducting to engine? Access is pretty rubbish to the console and being a large chap haven’t managed to contort myself into there yet to have a look what’s what,

I have an external fuel filter with grey coloured hose so presume that joins to the black hose at the stern behind the rear seat hatch .
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Old 15 May 2025, 00:30   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickpw View Post
Playtime would you mind sharing where you got your plate manufactured?
I just realized they used some weird stuff, and thought the rusty part was the sender not a plate. What is the fuel tank made out of?

Quote:
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Access is pretty rubbish to the console and being a large chap haven’t managed to contort myself into there yet to have a look what’s what,
Use your cell phone on video with a bright light or the cell light to slowly move it around and record. Pictures can work too. Even better is a bore scope to push inside small places. I think I paid under $70 for my bore scope, but I use it fairly often.

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I have an external fuel filter with grey coloured hose so presume that joins to the black hose at the stern behind the rear seat hatch .
Follow it...
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