Re-fitting our Humber Ocean Pro 6.3

[Nasher]

Bluesea components are really good for the price, I rewired my boat @5yrs ago and used a lot of their stuff.
I've just stripped some of it out as part of a minor refit whilst fitting my newer engine and it's as good as the day it went in.

If you are struggling to source anything I've always found Furneaux Riddell in Portsmouth to be very helpful. Not the cheapest, but helpful, carry lots of stock, and can source stuff quickly. I tend to buy all my cable from them over the counter.
https://www.furneauxriddall.com/

My main comment would be how much in the long run it's worth paying now for fully Pre-tinned cable. no more black conductors as moisture wicks it's way under the insulation.

Nasher

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by Nasher

Bluesea components are really good for the price, I rewired my boat @5yrs ago and used a lot of their stuff.
I've just stripped some of it out as part of a minor refit whilst fitting my newer engine and it's as good as the day it went in.

If you are struggling to source anything I've always found Furneaux Riddell in Portsmouth to be very helpful. Not the cheapest, but helpful, carry lots of stock, and can source stuff quickly. I tend to buy all my cable from them over the counter.
https://www.furneauxriddall.com/

My main comment would be how much in the long run it's worth paying now for fully Pre-tinned cable. no more black conductors as moisture wicks it's way under the insulation.

Nasher

Thanks Nasher, very helpful. Yes agree about the tinned cable, I’ve bought some reels of that stuff for that reason. Was also thinking of using liquid tape (type you see on Force 4 website) on connections, any thoughts?

[Nasher]

Liquid tape is good, until you want to get it off again, although to be fair it's easier to remove than a lot of adhesive heatshrinks. Worth using though.

Hopefully you are getting more time to work on your project than I am.

Nasher.

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by Nasher

Liquid tape is good, until you want to get it off again, although to be fair it's easier to remove than a lot of adhesive heatshrinks. Worth using though.

Hopefully you are getting more time to work on your project than I am.

Nasher.

Haha in dribs and drabs! We have a 8 month old son so time not plentiful, but I’m getting bits done here and there. It’s larger meaningful chunks of time that are hard to find!

[GuyC]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Thanks Nasher, very helpful. Yes agree about the tinned cable, I’ve bought some reels of that stuff for that reason. Was also thinking of using liquid tape (type you see on Force 4 website) on connections, any thoughts?

In addition to tinned cable I'd recommend using adhesive lined heat shrink connectors.

I've not used the liquid tape but I can see for hard to subsequently get to places e.g. fuel tank senders (if underdeck), the tape would give additional protection.

I'm sadly not that loyal when it comes to buying bits although 12V Planet are very good and tend to be my first port of call for electrical stuff.

[GuyC]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Haha in dribs and drabs! We have a 8 month old son so time not plentiful, but I’m getting bits done here and there. It’s larger meaningful chunks of time that are hard to find!

Do you think he'll be walking before you're boating?

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by GuyC

Do you think he'll be walking before you're boating?

Haha quite possibly at this rate!

I’ll have a look at the adhesive lined heat shrink connectors, I have various versions but not adhesive lined I don’t think. I’ve bought things from 12v planet before which seemed to be good

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by GuyC

From your battery I'd go fuse and then isolator.

https://www.bluesea.com/systems/42/2...ctrical_System

is an example diagrammatic which shows the charging relay.

Ordinarily when you get to your console you would attach the +ve from the battery to a fuse box which protects the individual circuits - VHF, chart plotter etc.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/502..._Bus_and_Cover

I tend to use Blue Sea but there are lots of others at various price / quality points.

12V Planet has some quite good guides on wiring and things like voltage drop which does have an effect if you have cable running several metres.

Someone else was talking lightweight batteries recently but I can't recall who it was.

Something like this?

I guess -VE cables from each electrical item connects to the -VE connection on the fused switch panel / Fuse block? So in this set up, only +VE cables need to go from the Blue Sea switch, one to the fuse block and the other to the fused switches.

Could a single cable go from the battery switch to a post, then two cables from the post, one to the switch panel and the other to the fuse block?

[beerbelly]

do you need a fuse box if the blue sea switch panel has trip fuses built in . i used one like this but as it has trip fuses i didn't use another fuse panel
https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Blue-S...Panel-Grey/T4K

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by beerbelly

do you need a fuse box if the blue sea switch panel has trip fuses built in . i used one like this but as it has trip fuses i didn't use another fuse panel
https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Blue-S...Panel-Grey/T4K

I have one like this which is similar to the one you provided the link for;

[GuyC]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Something like this?

Could a single cable go from the battery switch to a post, then two cables from the post, one to the switch panel and the other to the fuse block?

Yes

Looking at your consumers in the console, you won't be drawing more than 30 Amps even if you have everything on simultaneously. As a result you could use 16mm2 cable which would be fine for voltage drop so long as it doesn't exceed about 8m in length. As you suggest run it to a post and then split from there. You can also run an earth cable to the console. I tend to use black cable and then put a short length of red heat shrink on the end of it to indicate if it is +ve. It's personal taste but I think all black looks better and it's cheaper if you buy in bulk.

For your battery connections I'd use the biggest cable you can - 70mm2 wouldn't look out of place. If you do this, the fuses which could be cube fuses (https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/batte...s-50-300a.html) could be 300A. You would then need a fuse (100A) in the cable going to the console.

Disclaimer - Whilst I'm reasonably confident when it comes to basic electrics, I'm not a sparky (I work for a living) so please treat with a bit of caution.

[GuyC]

I'm just looking at more of your pictures.

Your switch panel has a common +ve so all switches are powered by one feed.

This feed needs to be fused so I'd run the 16mm2 cable to the fuse block and not to a post. The switch panel feed can come from one of the fuse ways on the fuse block.

You might want to check the maximum fuse rating of the fuse block but I suspect it will be around 30A which would be fine for the feed to the switches. If you go with 6mm2 cable, you can start to use the standard 6.3mm blade connectors etc.

As you have done, drawing it out is the best way to get it sorted.

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by GuyC

I'm just looking at more of your pictures.

Your switch panel has a common +ve so all switches are powered by one feed.

This feed needs to be fused so I'd run the 16mm2 cable to the fuse block and not to a post. The switch panel feed can come from one of the fuse ways on the fuse block.

You might want to check the maximum fuse rating of the fuse block but I suspect it will be around 30A which would be fine for the feed to the switches. If you go with 6mm2 cable, you can start to use the standard 6.3mm blade connectors etc.

As you have done, drawing it out is the best way to get it sorted.

Thanks I’ll draw out a revised plan tomorrow and double check on here - cheers for all your advice!

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by GuyC

I'm just looking at more of your pictures.

Your switch panel has a common +ve so all switches are powered by one feed.

This feed needs to be fused so I'd run the 16mm2 cable to the fuse block and not to a post. The switch panel feed can come from one of the fuse ways on the fuse block.

You might want to check the maximum fuse rating of the fuse block but I suspect it will be around 30A which would be fine for the feed to the switches. If you go with 6mm2 cable, you can start to use the standard 6.3mm blade connectors etc.

As you have done, drawing it out is the best way to get it sorted.

Hi Guy, would I need to go from battery switch to fuse block, then from fuse block to switch panel? The switch panel I have is a blue sea one where all switches are individually fused?

Also I forgot to add my Fusion radio to the appliances.

I have 16mm red and black tinned cable, was going to use that all the way from the battery to the console, the fuse I was going to use is in the picture below, 100A in line fuse, connecting between battery and battery switch on the +VE line.

In the photo also below is this what you mean by also running the -VE cable to the console? Each of the appliances have a -VE connection so guess they should connect back to the battery, perhaps all connecting to a -VE Bus bar? Or am I going a bit wrong here?

Also attach below a photo of the Blue Sea switch panel I have.

Thanks again

[GuyC]

I've attached my version of what you are trying to achieve.

For the house battery I've assumed you are not going to be drawing more than 45A through the 6m cable length. Any more than that and / or longer than 6m, you will need to increase cable size to reduce the voltage drop.

For the ACR I don't know what you charging rate of your alternator is. The size of the cable is based on this. If your alternator charges at less than 80A you can use 16mm cable with 100A fuses for the ACR cables but check your particular engine and ACR.

For the engine feed I've suggested 70mm cable. This may be overkill but I'm a believer in over speccing the engine start side of things. Check what current your isolator switch can handle.

I've run a -ve cable to the console so it is easy to terminate the earth connections.

Hopefully this helps. Please note the usual disclaimer but if there any more knowledgable people out there I'd be happy to listen to constructive criticism.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by xpertski

Haha quite possibly at this rate!

I’ll have a look at the adhesive lined heat shrink connectors, I have various versions but not adhesive lined I don’t think. I’ve bought things from 12v planet before which seemed to be good

Kojaycat are also good. Prices vary between 12Vplanet & Kojaycat. So compare carefully. Also check the prices include VAT & delivery.
Adhesive lined crimps, I wouldn’t use anything else, same goes for heatshrink. Having battled the dreaded black copper cores on previous boats, BP has only tinned copper on board.
Try ASAP supplies for Bluesea stuff.

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by GuyC

I've attached my version of what you are trying to achieve.



For the house battery I've assumed you are not going to be drawing more than 45A through the 6m cable length. Any more than that and / or longer than 6m, you will need to increase cable size to reduce the voltage drop.



For the ACR I don't know what you charging rate of your alternator is. The size of the cable is based on this. If your alternator charges at less than 80A you can use 16mm cable with 100A fuses for the ACR cables but check your particular engine and ACR.



For the engine feed I've suggested 70mm cable. This may be overkill but I'm a believer in over speccing the engine start side of things. Check what current your isolator switch can handle.



I've run a -ve cable to the console so it is easy to terminate the earth connections.



Hopefully this helps. Please note the usual disclaimer but if there any more knowledgable people out there I'd be happy to listen to constructive criticism.

Hi Guy,

Thanks again - the alternator charges at 60Amp so guess 16mm would be sufficient between batteries to the ACR, though I could get larger capacity if there is benefit?

Thanks

[GuyC]

If it's 60Amp then 16mm2 will be fine. It consolidates the battery cable you need to buy down to two sizes. Does your outboard have a recommended size of battery cable?

[xpertski]

Originally Posted by GuyC

If it's 60Amp then 16mm2 will be fine. It consolidates the battery cable you need to buy down to two sizes. Does your outboard have a recommended size of battery cable?

Not that I can find ... it’s a 2009 Mercury Optimax 175ho

[m Williams]

A quick question for the experts. I have recently purchased a Humber Assault 5.0, however, there is no hull identification plate just details of weight limit,max number of persons and a a maximum engine size of 90 hp. Contacted Humber who were unable to help.

So, for insurance purposes I need to establish a year built and a maximum speed with the 50 hp four stroke outboard fitted. Any help would be greatly appreciated.