pinhole leaks & boat update

[playspot1]

Hi all,

Ok, with the help of many so far, my RIB is cming along nicely. I've repatched and repaired a previous owners inadequate repair. I've got all the engine, electronics, and steering issues worked out.

I took the boat out for the maiden voyage (2nd one) last weekend, and everything was great. I was pleased that the massive amount of glueing, straking strips, tube to grp bond, and everything else stayed together just fine.

With the motor still being broken in, and still mixing extra oil in the fuel tank, everything ran smooth. Now we have about 21/2 hours on the motor, and will soon be onto the straight fuel, and let the motor mix on its own.. (2 stroke)

Well, she cruises well. Not quite WOT (a little breezy on Saturday) she goes about 45 MPH ground speed on the GPS. I suppose I should convert that over to knots, and will do so next time. Handles well, and I even managed to get a little airborne, and track well coming down. (that wake was just a little bigger than it looked at first)

A big thanks to all of you that have helped with input from motor type to steering, to tube repair.

To that end, I can't seem to find where a leak is coming from in my starboard tube. Holds air fine during the day, but after about 24 hours you can feel that it has let some out. After 48 hours it is visibly a little deflated. I've rubbed with soap and water, and looked for bubbles, but it's not apparent. No leaks seem to be coming out of the seams or valves. I'm lost on this one. Port tube stays rock hard. I've heard of putting in a tube sealer, but how can I get it all around the inside on a RIB? Perhaps put it in at the boat ramp, pump it up, and then take is out immediately for a bumpy cruise? Any other suggestions?

Thanks. As soon as this bugger is completely sorted out, I'll post a pic of "Glue Scraper"

playspot

[Pete7]

hmm, tricky one. Have you checked the valves ? They unscrew leaving one piece on the outside and the rest on the inside, although the manufacturers glue them in they can be removed and cleaned up then refitted. Quick tip on replacing them, use a piece of cotton threaded through the outer piece and then tied to the inner piece to hold it in place as you line them up to screw together.

Also air can migrate, along a seam, along the material between the layers or quite a common problem is past a baffle between two compartments.

There is a puncture fluid for sealing the inside of tubes and it works quite well on an inflatable as you can turn them over and over to work the fluid round, bit more tricky on a rib and doesn't solve the original problem just cures it. Cost £12 last time I used a can of it.

[gaelforce]

what i've done in the past is have a snorkeller check out for bubbles on the underside. failing that in the middle of a still silent night, run your ear all along the tube. it's amazing what u can hear.

[RussHaley]

We used 5 bottles of the tube sealant (one for each compartment) on a 5.8m inflatable, and it has been solid ever since.

OK, so without the floorboards it took 4 of us to roll it around a lawn. Apart from stripping the RIB of everything and getting 5 big blokes to help you roll it about on something soft, I can't think of another way of doing it.

If you can get the stuff in the tubes, and roll it about it should work well.

Good Luck.

Russ

[sunrider]

We circulated sealant in a 23 foot zodiac mark VI by suspending it with rope formed in a bridle from the transom to a pole, about 10 feet off the ground, then ran a single line from the bow to an engine hoist and raised the boat until it was level - hanging lick a hammock. We were able to spine the boat easily, and adjust the circulation vertically by raising or lowering the bow. It worked well, providing the tubes were fully inflated. The same principle should work even better with a RIB. Good luck!
Bryan