Glassing in SR jockey hump

bowfront26 · 10 April 2017, 21:26

I am in the process of converting a 5.4m deluxe searider to a center console. I've removed the the side by seating and have a piece of 3/4" marine plywood cut to fit my jockey/console. The problem is that the deck has a slight rocker to it, causing a small 1/4" gap in the middle.

When I go to glass the ply into place, I will be weighting the ply down to contour to the slight rocker shape of the existing deck. My question is, should I apply a layer of peanut butter consistency epoxy to act as adhesive between the ply and deck? I will leave a slight gap (won't weight the ply down fully) under the ply, otherwise this gap will carry forward to the space between the ply and the jockey. I'm thinking I will leave about 1/8" gap between ply and deck, filled with peanut butter epoxy. Then the remaining 1/8" gap will be filled with a rubber mat above the ply.

ncp · 12 April 2017, 17:15

Post some pictures. Everyone loves pictures. You're probably get some more opinions (other than mine, which you have already).

If you're not using the app on your phone, it's the way to go to start threads and upload pictures.

bowfront26 · 13 April 2017, 18:03

You're right

. I'll post some pics after this weekend. Going with your advice tom but maybe it will help someone else down the road.

bowfront26 · 24 April 2017, 16:05

I ended up going with west system epoxy with slow 206 hardner. I did a resin coat on the bottom of the ply then mixed in some 406 colloidal silica filler to make a peanut butter epoxy to use as an adhesive between the ply and deck. I ended up weighting the ply almost fully to the contour (slight rocker) of the deck. The main reason was because I spilled half the bottle of hardner (even with the installed mini pumps, the liquid spills out of a tiny pressure release hole) so I didn't have quite enough to make enough peanut butter to fill the entire gap.

It ended up working great and this last weekend I did my first glass laying attempt and put 1 layer of 6 oz biaxial cloth over the ply onto the deck. I also drilled out the existing holes for the (original side by side seating) mounts and filled them with peanut butter. I def learned a few things on this first fiberglass job, mostly the importance of prep, but it went pretty smoothly overall. Unfortunately, I ran out of time (these things always take much more time than expected/hoped) so I'll have to do the 2nd layer of fabric next weekend which means, I'll have to sand/prep the surface once again.

Once that step is complete, I will need to find a suitable paint to finish. Next I will need an appropriate rubber mat to fit under the jockey to absorb some of the remaining gap that exists as well as to protect the deck from dropped weight belts, etc.

Any recommendations on rubber mats?

bowfront26 · 24 April 2017, 16:58

Would it be best to install a full mat (kitchen/bar mat style with holes) across this area or instead maybe just 4" wide strips that span the entire length covering the bolts. This would provided cushion for the jockey seat but also allow any water to exit out the back and not get trapped.

Yellow outlines represent the rubber strips (drawn thinner than I would go).

Any reason to avoid this or go a different route?

ncp · 24 April 2017, 17:48

Bar mat is heavy. I'd voted strips.

I hope the head of the screw are big or you used decent sized washers so the bolts don't pull out!

Non-skid:

In the Macmillan SR5.4 rebuild thread, they talk about using waxed gel coat ("flowcoat" over there) matched for color hit with an air compressor to ripple it. I can't find the info but maybe you can google it or someone with chime in with better info.

Or, I've heard of thickening gel coat with silica and using a stippled roller to create texture.

Or, you could use Kiwi Grip. I hear the texture comes out similar. It' water based and tintable at a paint store. I don't know how UV sensitive bright orange would be though (I know you would keep it under cover so maybe not an issue)

ncp · 24 April 2017, 17:49

DELETED..double post

bowfront26 · 24 April 2017, 18:22

The heads are decent sized and I counter sunk them and filled that hole with epoxy so they should be in there pretty well. 3/4" ply plus resin and glass on top so there is def some meat in there. Glad I didn't go thinner than 3/4" ply though.

Yea I think I'll go strips of rubber as illustrated. I'll have to find some thinner rubber mats like those bar mats for the rest of the deck. Need something that can breath.

I'll have to check out that thread for the textured deck but there isn't going to be much slick surface at this point and I think I'd still want a rubber mat for added protection.

ncp · 24 April 2017, 18:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowfront26

I'll have to check out that thread for the textured deck but there isn't going to be much slick surface at this point and I think I'd still want a rubber mat for added protection.

A lot of people use:
https://www.dri-dek.com/

Supposedly this brand is cheaper (Multy):
Multy Home Extreme Black 18 in. x 18 in. Commercial Rubber Drainage Floor (8-Pack)-MT5100108 - The Home Depot

I can't find a price online for this type:
Utility Floor

Lot's of copies - Dri-dek will be the most expensive. As long as you take the time to cut it out nicely to match the contours of your deck, it will look good and protect from weights landing on the deck and so on.

bowfront26 · 24 April 2017, 20:06

I'll have to go check out home depot and see what they have so I can feel it out. For now, I requested a couple samples of these

"Safe-Grip" Anti-Slip Rubber Matting

I'm thinking the above could be good for the strips under the seating and wouldn't need much material.

“S-Grip” PVC Drainage Mats

The S grip could be used for the remaining deck coverage. It's only 3/16" thick so light weight, drains and would be about $100 to cover it all.