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Old 06 February 2017, 11:49   #1
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Filling screw holes on deck

Hi all

Another question!

I have removed all the jockey seats - they were fixed with S/S self tappers - so that I can cover the desk with Permateek.

The question is - when I refix the seats the chances are they will be in slightly different positions but only by a few mm or cm.

Rather than trying to marry up the old holes (which would be tricky once the synthetic teak is down) I need to fill the old holes but with strong enough stuff that if a new screw position is close to an old, they will still hold.

I was thinking epoxy filler - would this be OK?

Image shows the colour I am going for - if you are interested! :-)

Thanks!

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Old 06 February 2017, 13:26   #2
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Get some hard wood dowel larger then the hole with a point to start coat in waterproof glue and hammer in they will be force fit and swell if they did get wet but cover with flowcoat to seal before laying floor
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Old 06 February 2017, 13:30   #3
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Thanks!!!!!!
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Old 06 February 2017, 13:55   #4
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What's the deck made of? Foam sandwich or wood?

If foam id epoxy filler, either off the shelf or epoxy resin mixed with Cabosil
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Old 07 February 2017, 07:27   #5
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Ply with fibreglass
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Old 07 February 2017, 11:02   #6
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Also use Sikaflex as well as screws to hold the seats in when you put them back.
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Old 07 February 2017, 11:31   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mode View Post
Hi all

Another question!

I have removed all the jockey seats - they were fixed with S/S self tappers - so that I can cover the desk with Permateek.

The question is - when I refix the seats the chances are they will be in slightly different positions but only by a few mm or cm.

Rather than trying to marry up the old holes (which would be tricky once the synthetic teak is down) I need to fill the old holes but with strong enough stuff that if a new screw position is close to an old, they will still hold.

I was thinking epoxy filler - would this be OK?

Image shows the colour I am going for - if you are interested! :-)

Thanks!

Mode
Depending on how far you want to go & how good a job you want to do, you could bond some Big Heads on to the deck before you lay your permateak & bolt the seat pods down on a bed of Sika.
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Old 07 February 2017, 16:23   #8
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https://gcpat.com/construction/en-my...ellseal-Mastic

You could use this
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Old 12 February 2017, 17:57   #9
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Ply with fibreglass
Jeffs wood and grp or epoxy filler are both options
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Old 12 February 2017, 19:31   #10
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If you're sure that the new seat screws are not going to marry up with the old holes, then you could just countersink the old holes and pop self tappers back into them. I wouldn't hammer in a dry dowel made from wood because it'll be end grain up and wood end grain is like a bunch of straws. I guess you could saturate them first in resin and put them in wet, it might help.
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Old 13 February 2017, 05:15   #11
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I have just taken the bottle rack out of my sea-rider and replaced the existing fixings with a liberal 'dollop' of sikaflex in the hole and then painted over the top with a couple of layers of 'International' paint.
Aesthetically 'ok' but hopefully secure and long lasting.
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Old 13 February 2017, 13:05   #12
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End grain won't matter a jot covered in waterproof glue and then flowcoat or epoxy then covered with his flooring
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Old 13 February 2017, 13:11   #13
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Quote:
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End grain won't matter a jot covered in waterproof glue and then flowcoat or epoxy then covered with his flooring
....as said many times before
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Old 13 February 2017, 14:37   #14
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End grain won't matter a jot covered in waterproof glue and then flowcoat or epoxy then covered with his flooring
In that case, why not just scoosh the holes full of epoxy and save messing about? kiss...

I take it you've actually done this successfully and tested your results extensively before you gave out this advice so freely?

I've noticed you do quite a lot of armchair engineering....
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Old 13 February 2017, 15:43   #15
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If you just fill the hole with anything that doesn't swell you won't seal it and have a poor construction joint the holes will have a screw thread the full length unless he drills out bigger for a better face to glue to even then it's not going to be good due to the nature of drilling leaving a scroll
The swellseal mastic is a good product if he can buy a single tube we use it underwater to seal sluice gate frames when they have leaks behind frames to wall fixings


Yes I've done it before when I fitted new jockey bases to my rib filling the holes creates a platform for the flow coat to rest / seal to by making sure you have the hole sealed as a back up in case the flow coat cracks its basic engineering.

As for arm chair engineering anything I post is from expeariance or an idea to be kicked around the tin during open debate is this not the basis of a forum in the end the OP can choose from all the ideas and make his own mind up and it's free
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Old 13 February 2017, 16:14   #16
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I would probably run a drill through the hole to clean it up, prime the inside of the hole with straight epoxy and then fill it with epoxy mixed with microfibres which is the structural adhesive filler.

Another option is to 'insert' the area in way of the screw holes. You can cut the holes with a hole saw and being anal I tend to cut the inserts with a jig saw to get a better fit. Again prime the edges with neat epoxy and then use microfibres for the joint.

This seems like a PITA but it does give you fresh wood and removes any damage due to water ingress in way of the old screw holes.
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Old 16 February 2017, 08:26   #17
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Thanks for all the tips guys - I will pick a solution and run with it!

The only thing I will add is that the number of holes is going to be a lot - see attached image - 5 jockey seats with lots of screws in each!!

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Old 16 February 2017, 09:07   #18
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hi mode

two pics of mine i went from 4 jockeys to 2 suspention seats, my old jockeys were internal flange but i wanted external on the new ones so i could keep an eye on them with the extra forces on the bases since i installed them myself so in total i filled about eighty holes and redrilled forty with the method previously mentioned.
for info gorrilla glue is 100% waterproof and swells to 3-4 times when one side of the wood is damp so achiving a tight joint which willtake out the problem of rough surfaces if you go down the dowel method
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Old 18 February 2017, 21:08   #19
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Found this thread
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Old 19 February 2017, 09:01   #20
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Found this thread

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