Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 22 January 2014, 12:04   #1
Member
 
SteveHall's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancs
Boat name: Beretta
Make: Ballistic
Length: 6m +
Engine: 175hp e-tec
MMSI: 235035778
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,736
RIBase
Many weeks ago I started a 'replace my gauges' thread with ICommand and installed a NMEA2k network, but due to cash flow and wanting to get out on the water as soon as possible ICommand isn't going to happen this season. I toyed with the idea of putting some plastic over the holes and bolting through to the inside like a sandwich, but I have been thinking more and I wont be installing any smaller gauges anymore as everything is shown on my HDS - so I need to fill these holes up. Has anyone got any how tos? An idiots guide to fiberglass and flowcoat? I have done a search on here and I can find stuff about filling drill holes but nothing about 2.5" holes, and if the process is simple I may fill all the holes then re-drill if I get gauges.



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-1971728899.jpg
Views:	265
Size:	27.6 KB
ID:	89496

Old gauges.
__________________
Steve
Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
https://www.justgiving.com/blind-sailing
https://www.facebook.com/rib.beretta/
SteveHall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 12:27   #2
Member
 
jambo's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
RIBase
Steve the only thing I have herd off is to cover the whole of the consul face with either a complete piece of grp or the metal stuff that gives it a match look. Someone on here did that I can't remember
who. Maybe a search would come up with some answers.

Good luck.

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
__________________
jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
jambo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 12:35   #3
Member
 
SteveHall's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancs
Boat name: Beretta
Make: Ballistic
Length: 6m +
Engine: 175hp e-tec
MMSI: 235035778
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,736
RIBase
I was hoping I could keep it looking original. I've seen the Macmillan rib where they have filled an old compass hole - and that's impressive you wouldn't know it was there.

I just need tips on how to complete such a professional looking finish.

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
__________________
Steve
Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
https://www.justgiving.com/blind-sailing
https://www.facebook.com/rib.beretta/
SteveHall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 13:48   #4
Member
 
biffer's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
Jambo is right I did the dash with a carbon panel, I also filled the MacRib hole, you will need to get into your console to fill the hole properly, if you can do that let me know and I'll explain, the matting is done from the inside so you'll need to get a fair way in
__________________
biffer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 13:53   #5
Member
 
SteveHall's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancs
Boat name: Beretta
Make: Ballistic
Length: 6m +
Engine: 175hp e-tec
MMSI: 235035778
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,736
RIBase
I can't physically get into it - but I can get my arms in and move around.

I really want a finish that you can't tell the holes where there, if this isn't possible I will have to re think and may end up getting the small gauges.

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
__________________
Steve
Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
https://www.justgiving.com/blind-sailing
https://www.facebook.com/rib.beretta/
SteveHall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 14:37   #6
Member
 
Country: Luxembourg
Town: Hesperange
Make: Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 75HP
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 170
Hi Steve,

I am not the fibreglass expert but all my work I based on youtube You might find there a lot of tips. Check for example this one:
__________________
zubol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 14:40   #7
Member
 
Barrowboy's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Town: Galway
Boat name: Top Banana
Make: Scorpion 9m
Length: 9m +
Engine: Yamaha 421STI
MMSI: Yeah right!
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,164
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveHall View Post
I can't physically get into it - but I can get my arms in and move around.

I really want a finish that you can't tell the holes where there, if this isn't possible I will have to re think and may end up getting the small gauges.

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
Steve, if you haven't done something similar before, don't do it. Even the mighty Biff had a console free of wiring that wasn't fixed to the boat and that he could manipulate to any position he wanted.

Buggering about in a tight space at arms length with restricted movement with flocoat is a recipe for a less than 'showroom' finish. By all means practice on a piece that's 'scrap' but not one that's going to annoy you for ever if you don't get it right.

Even Usain Bolt doesn't 'practice' in the final!
__________________
Barrowboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 14:41   #8
Member
 
Country: Luxembourg
Town: Hesperange
Make: Searider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha 75HP
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 170
Hi Steve,

I am not the fibreglass expert but all my work I based on youtube You might find there a lot of tips. Check for example this one:
__________________
zubol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 14:45   #9
Member
 
biffer's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
I suggest a rethink, you have to lay wet Matt on from the inside to cover the hole then consolidate it with a roller to get the air out, it's a two handed job and nearly impossible if you can't get both hands to it and see what you are doing, post a pic of the whole dash and I'll see if I can come up with a solution
__________________
biffer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 14:47   #10
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: CA
Make: Zodiac RIB-P
Length: 7m +
Engine: Suzuki 250
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,235
The fiberglass is easy, the finish is difficult. For a beginner fiberglass is easy because you can just sand a lot to make up for the learning curve. Trying to keep a nice looking finish on the exterior is the hard part, well almost impossible. You might be able to refinish the whole front section where you do the repairs. Use the natural corners and edges as a break and it would be a little less noticeable.

Jason
__________________
Bigtalljv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 15:57   #11
Member
 
Chris Caton's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,405
Steve, like a lot of others on here I'm no fibreglass expert, if we were closer I'd recommend taking it to Biff for him to work his magic, and you may still decide that's the best option for you, but another more local option would be Mike at Whitham Glassfibre, he's near Ormskirk which I guess ain't that far from you, worth a call at least
__________________
Chris Caton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 16:14   #12
Member
 
A1an's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,896
RIBase
This may not be the proper way but it worked for me


Chamfer the holes to expose the fibreglass, rub back the inside and apply a sheet of glass to the back of the holes, fill holes with layers of glass making sure all air is out and its taken to chamfered edgesthen sand back until flush, I used a skim of flowcoat to fill any imperfection, then flowcoat, sand, polish, pour a dram and admire.

As of yet its still holding.

A couple of pictures.

Sorry they are in no order, uploading and edit function playing up. For some reason it won't let me upload the picture from inside console.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3863346873.jpg
Views:	212
Size:	60.4 KB
ID:	89506   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3680062429.jpg
Views:	205
Size:	51.6 KB
ID:	89507   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2326640608.jpg
Views:	176
Size:	54.5 KB
ID:	89508   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-631535291.jpg
Views:	199
Size:	41.0 KB
ID:	89509  
__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
A1an is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 16:28   #13
Member
 
biffer's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
Both the above post are right all but one thing. If you can't get in there. How are you two going to do what you say
__________________
biffer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 16:34   #14
Member
 
A1an's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,896
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer View Post
Both the above post are right all but one thing. If you can't get in there. How are you two going to do what you say
I presumed if he could "bolt through" to the inside then access wouldn't be an issue, how do you get access to wire gauges?
__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
A1an is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 16:52   #15
Member
 
A1an's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,896
RIBase
Here's a thought...


Say your gauge hole is 50mm, could you cut a piece of CSM 48mmx75mm and coat in resin and wait for it to go off, then drill a hole in middle of the glass and thread a piece of string through it, coat glass in resin and feed through gauge hole and pull string to position glass plate in place, tie off string to something then once set snip string off and proceed to fill holes as normal?

Get me?
__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
A1an is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 17:19   #16
Member
 
biffer's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
Quote:
Originally Posted by A1an View Post
I presumed if he could "bolt through" to the inside then access wouldn't be an issue, how do you get access to wire gauges?
As said in my earlier post, to do the matting you need two hands and your eyes, to wire a gauge isn't that bad, you could bond a GRP disc to the back of the hole and then fill in the face, you won't get a good finish and it will crack around the original hole line
__________________
biffer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 18:26   #17
Member
 
SteveHall's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Lancs
Boat name: Beretta
Make: Ballistic
Length: 6m +
Engine: 175hp e-tec
MMSI: 235035778
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,736
RIBase
If I could build something to support me at the level of the opening to the console then I could quite comfortably lie down for hours



Click image for larger version

Name:	image-4187006806.jpg
Views:	245
Size:	52.7 KB
ID:	89510

Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
__________________
Steve
Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
https://www.justgiving.com/blind-sailing
https://www.facebook.com/rib.beretta/
SteveHall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 18:29   #18
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,053
RIBase
Aren't the Icommand gauges the same size as your current ones?

I'd personally have the smaller gauges as well as they're easier to read at speed than a small digital display. Either that or stick something else in there.
Matching white gelcoat isnt' that easy if you don't know which white pigment they used originally, and there's going to be a certain amount of yellowing as well.

It WILL show, however nice a job you do.It just depends how much it shows. You'll know when you look at it, though others might not.
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 18:33   #19
Member
 
A1an's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,896
RIBase
A few planks and a joiners trestle?

One end of the planks inside console the other end on the trestle. A pillow for some home comforts and its night night.
__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
A1an is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 January 2014, 18:44   #20
Member
 
biffer's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
Right are there holes behind the lowrance units and yes I can see a way out of this, you need to get that sorted first, either the holes behind the units and laying on your back, as said before you need to grind out the back to a taper towards the edge of the holes, you need to glue, clamp, fix a flat bit of anything over the holes on the outside. Next you need to layup on the inside, I would suggest wet out a few layers of Matt and place them onto a bit of polythene, that way you can offer it onto the hole without it falling all over the place, you can consolidate it with the polythene still on it, pull it off when dry, once dry you can remove the plate on the front and do the Gell, this is just a basic intro to GRP layup
__________________
biffer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 12:16.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.