Engine flush

[FrankfromCrete]

Hi,

As a newby to ribbing, I have a question... In the manuals and various things I have read it advises to flush out cooling system of the outboard ( a Yamaha 225HP in this case) with tap water, no problem I have done this with a hose and a clamp once the boat is on the trailer.... but I now plan to leave the boat moored in a harbour for at least a couple of weeks so do I still need to do this ? As getting the clamp on the water inlet port would be almost impossible to fix it on as with the engine lifted it is about a meter further back than the back of the boat so I would have to get in the water to fix it on, as I have never seen anyone doing this im guessing people don't bother or there is another trick that I am missing ?

Also I have been experimenting withe the trim of the engine, with the engine fully down the trim meter shows a bar at number 3, the graduation is from 1 to 5, with just a few seconds on the up button once the boat is planning it goes to number 5 ie max although, looking at the wake the engine still need to come up a bit, so I just have to look at the engine a gauge it which makes having a gauge a bit pointless, am I doing things wrong or do I need to recalibrate the gauge somehow ?

Any comments and tips much appreciated

[Gobuchul]

Is there a top flush connection?

I know that more recent Yamaha's allow you to flush the cooling system from a top connection. Not sure if that's the case with larger engines?

[simonl]

Originally Posted by Gobuchul

Is there a top flush connection?

I know that more recent Yamaha's allow you to flush the cooling system from a top connection. Not sure if that's the case with larger engines?

I thinkk they all have them, from HPDI onwards

[FrankfromCrete]

Hi,

I have check my engine and definitely no top flush option, I managed to hang off the ladder half in the water and just about get the "earmuffs" on, I just thought there must be an easier way.
I suppose its not to bad as the water is 23 deg at the moment here, how long do people leave it flushing about 5 min I guess? And do you run the engine on tickover while doing this operation as without running no water was coming out of the outlet port?

[simonl]

do it when the engine's still warm. 5 min is plenty, engine must be running.

[treerat]

Originally Posted by simonl

do it when the engine's still warm. 5 min is plenty, engine must be running.

If on muffs yes, if using a flush point, no. My suzuki has a screw in one and the engine must not be running for this - so I was reliably told at last service.........

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by treerat

If on muffs yes, if using a flush point, no. My suzuki has a screw in one and the engine must not be running for this - so I was reliably told at last service.........

+1 never run it's in the manual personally I run in bucket so it's gets to operating temp thermostat is then open and it all gets flushed I keep mine going until the water is warm salt desolves better in warm water

Unless yams are different carnt remember running mine thow

[lakelandterrier]

Advice I had with the new engine was to use the flush kit from the top, and not to run it with muffs from the main dealer.

Suzuki Manual recommmends running with muffs though.

I'm therefore confused as to best method, or does it make no difference?

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by lakelandterrier

Advice I had with the new engine was to use the flush kit from the top, and not to run it with muffs from the main dealer.

Suzuki Manual recommmends running with muffs though.

I'm therefore confused as to best method, or does it make no difference?

A good set of muffs are just as good if you have good water pressure l prefer the bucket.
If your on a berth with a large boat you could flush with a flush bag tied around the leg fill with fresh water when down.

[Jonno]

My Suzuki is used constantly in salt water and I am suspecting there is a build up inside the galleries as even with a new impeller the output on the wee vent is poor (it is not blocked). I have a big tank which I can put the leg in is there anything I can use to descale or clean in addition to just fresh water?

[beerbelly]

Originally Posted by Jonno

My Suzuki is used constantly in salt water and I am suspecting there is a build up inside the galleries as even with a new impeller the output on the wee vent is poor (it is not blocked). I have a big tank which I can put the leg in is there anything I can use to descale or clean in addition to just fresh water?

some folk recommend vinegar god knows how many gallons you would have to put in a 45 gallon container tho you can buy blue tablets online too

[jeffstevens763@g]

Saltaway

[Manolism]

https://youtu.be/wkJ1lmT2tb0

I think this is the best solution if you have tank. It's to easy to build it with a spare pump.

[Jonno]

I could use something like sodium bisulphate which is granular acid used in swimming pools but what pH would i take it down to?

[jeffstevens763@g]

Your engine has special coatings to prevent corrosion be very careful using anything other that stuff designed for flushing

[jonp]

This side of the pond you don't see anyone use the bucket system to flush their outboards, most people use the muffs simply because this way cleans all of the cooling system where the hose connection doesn't. Most outboards need to be running for a few minutes so that the thermostat opens, once open the water then passes through the parts of the engine a hose connect cold flush doesn't.

Outboards shouldn't be revved hard when on muffs as there isn't enough back pressure and damage can be done to the engine doing so.

ive been flushing my outboards with a product called saltaway that removes salt and leaves a coating salt can't attach to, this can also be used on moored boats with a saltaway injection kit. Check out the product here Salt Away this is used by the Navy and other government boating companies.

[Maximus]

Originally Posted by jonp

This side of the pond you don't see anyone use the bucket system to flush their outboards, most people use the muffs simply because this way cleans all of the cooling system where the hose connection doesn't. Most outboards need to be running for a few minutes so that the thermostat opens, once open the water then passes through the parts of the engine a hose connect cold flush doesn't.

Outboards shouldn't be revved hard when on muffs as there isn't enough back pressure and damage can be done to the engine doing so.

ive been flushing my outboards with a product called saltaway that removes salt and leaves a coating salt can't attach to, this can also be used on moored boats with a saltaway injection kit. Check out the product here Salt Away this is used by the Navy and other government boating companies.

All good advice....and another vote from me for "Salt away"
If you use a Large container for flushing as I used too ...a wash down with a soft broom and the treated water on the tubes consul equipment ect...before a final rinse really does pay dividends long term!

[longjohn]

Originally Posted by Jonno

My Suzuki is used constantly in salt water and I am suspecting there is a build up inside the galleries as even with a new impeller the output on the wee vent is poor (it is not blocked). I have a big tank which I can put the leg in is there anything I can use to descale or clean in addition to just fresh water?

The Suzuki tell tale vent is just that and does not ever have a great force of water & is quite easily blocked - it is merely there to tell you that the impeller is working. Undo the flush plug if you want to see a better flow - but don't run it long like that.

[longjohn]

Originally Posted by lakelandterrier

Advice I had with the new engine was to use the flush kit from the top, and not to run it with muffs from the main dealer.

Suzuki Manual recommmends running with muffs though.

I'm therefore confused as to best method, or does it make no difference?

I can't see this making sense and why would Suzuki provide a flush port if they recommended muffs anyway?

I have always only ever used the flush port & on servicing there is no build up of salt or corrosion on my DF70

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by longjohn

I can't see this making sense and why would Suzuki provide a flush port if they recommended muffs anyway?

I have always only ever used the flush port & on servicing there is no build up of salt or corrosion on my DF70

the flush port is engine not running, muffs are for engine running but the best way is in a tub as it replicates normal running.[ not fed by tap water pressure]