DIY Console & Seat

davep · 16 July 2004, 13:06

I have finally got around to starting my DIY console project. To date I now have the console constructed using a 38x38 timber frame clad with ply. (loads of screws & gallons of PVA adhesive). I now intend to sheath (I think thats what it's called) this inside & out with glass fibre. Questions: 1) How many layers should I use. 2) What weight CSM would you recommend. 3) When I order the resin does the catalyst come with it, or do I order separately. 4) Any suggestions on applying the finishing coat in order to get the best finish. I realise I am going to get an orange peel effect, but would like to minimise this. Hope you can help.

slimtim · 16 July 2004, 17:24

Yo,

I'm no expert and have never done it myself but I can offer the follwing advise whihc may or may not be a load of crap (i'm sure the clever folk of this forum will correct me if I get it wrong).

Have a look at www.cfsnet.co.uk for all GRP supplies. They're cheap (their prices on the web are however EX VAT) and there resins come with catalysts.

I don't really know how many layers you should apply but it sounds as if the plywood shell would be enough on its own to stand up to all the forces involved? If this is the case then I would say only 1 or 2 layers of 300 or 450gsm CSM. Or maybe 2 on the outside and 1 inside. This way the wood will be encapsulated and impervious to water etc.

After this has been done I think you will then need to apply a layer of tissue which helps to cover up the rough CSM pattern. You can then flowcoat it (Gelcoat with a wax additive that means it will dry in air) to produce a very hard and resistant coating. This coating will however not be glossy so then you need to shine it up with wet and dry and a cutting compound. Alternatively I think you could use a 2 pack polyurethane paint that will dry hard and durable but will be glossy.

what ever you do good luck! I hope others on this forum can either confirm what I have said or correct me where I have got it all wrong!

Tim

Pete7 · 16 July 2004, 23:09

Dave,

http://www.rib.net/forum/showthread....hlight=top+hat

Pete

jwalker · 17 July 2004, 19:37

Much as slimtim said. 2 outside and 2 inside of 350gm csm (1½oz) and local reinforcing where you are going to fit handles. Flow coat white inside, you can see better what you are doing when working with only your head through a hole!

Be sure to tear the csm rather than cut it.

If you want a smooth and polished finish, be prepared for a good deal of hard work. Alternatively, go for a deliberate orange peel texture using a foam roller (B & Q).

Pete7 · 17 July 2004, 20:08

Jeff, was that just resin or a mix of resin and gelcoat ? any idea what happens if you use a fine roller ? hair or gloss radiator type ?

Pete

jwalker · 17 July 2004, 23:32

About 50/50. It just makes a flowcoat really.

When I apply gelcoat with a fine roller, it just leaves a light texture. The roller skids easily so you'd need to take care if using it for a finish.

roohairy · 18 July 2004, 18:58

Has anyone tried making a console from a female mould? Any advice and / or tips? Or should I forget it! Have done a bit of GRP repairwork but never tried moulding and it was a while ago now.

davep · 19 July 2004, 12:57

Thanks everyone. I will go for 2 layers inside & out with a final outer layer of tissue finished with a fine roller and a 50/50 gel/resin. Wax is mentioned as an additive to this, is it necessary? if so what type & how much? I will try and get some photos of the progress and post them here. One more question, what drying times am I looking at for the various stages of the work?

Pete7 · 19 July 2004, 13:14

Dave, without wax in the resin is will have a sticky surface, whilst with wax it dries to a clean surface.

Drying time is down to the amount of catalyst you add. Buy a little "medicine" type measuring thimble from the GRP supplier, the rest is trial and error. I found an 8 oz coffee jar and 10 cc of catalyst gave me 20 - 30 minutes work time.

Pete

Edited with advice from JW,

jwalker · 19 July 2004, 14:39

davep, forget the tissue. Add catalyst at about 1½%; 15ml (cc) per litre/kilo and wax at about the same. Conveniently, a litre of resin weighs about 1 kg.

Pete, are you confusing accelerator and catalyst? Most resins come pre-accelerated and you don't need to consider it.

davep · 19 July 2004, 15:08

OK I think wax is necessary after all. What do I get?

davep · 19 July 2004, 16:18

Tim, thanks for the CFSnet link. I've now ordered all the materials etc and I'm looking forward to the next stage of construction. I found out about the wax on their site as well. Cheers Dave

slimtim · 19 July 2004, 17:53

Dave,

Glad I was of some kind of help. That website has all the gear on it. Also order their catalogue as that has loads of additional and very useful info in it.

also try http://www.resin-supplies.co.uk/intro_page.htm

This has some info pages on it, including one on how to sheathe i believe.

Good luck.

Tim

Stephen-RIB · 19 July 2004, 18:07

I dont think I would use CSM at all, if its been made of plywood you have your structural strength already there, so I would sheath in two layers of cloth and then think about the finish.

On the finish I would go for Epifanes mono-urethane paint, if you do it nicely you would be hard pressed to tell the difference to gel coat, its cheaper, a lot easier and lot less likely to go wrong.