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Old 07 January 2008, 11:08   #1
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Built In Fuel Tank & Condensation

I will be using an 8.5 metre RIB in a hot climate where the humididity is very high.The Rib in question has a large ,I believe 180 litre built in fuel tank,situated under the deck.

There are no concrete slip ways where I am so I will be launching and recovering the boat on the beach, so the lighter the boat obviously the better.

My questions to you clever members of rib-net are.

If I keep my tank only partly full say 40% (to keep the weight down) all the time would this encourage moisture to collect in the tank due to condensation ?

or Would it be better to use a smaller plastic type additional fuel tank and forget the built in one all togther.

or

Will the weight of a completely full built in tank not really make that much difference to the overall weight of the RIB.

Over here we don't usualy launch and recover anything bigger than about 27ft boat on the beach or its quite likely the vehicle and trailer will get stuck. I am thinking that the extra weight of fuel plus the additional T-Top that I will be fitting might be the straw the camels back.

What do you guys think ? Your advice has always been spot on !!

Thanks
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Old 07 January 2008, 11:23   #2
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Will the weight of a completely full built in tank not really make that much difference to the overall weight of the RIB.
I don't think the odd 90 kgs you will save by having a half full tank is going to make any difference on a 8.2m rib. 180L isn't huge, I would keep the tank full to launch in the mornings just incase something goes pear shaped and your out for a bit longer than you planned. Top the tank up full each evening to stop the condensation forming as the air cools. What are you launching with? I would think your going to need a tractor or buldozer for sand.

However since your in the Caribbean if you need help I am available to fly out and assist you with launching, particularly as England is a little damp and foggy at the moment

Pete
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Old 07 January 2008, 11:48   #3
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Pretty sure it wont be an issue.If it's worrying you, put an in-line 'jam jar' in the fuel line and keep an eye on it.
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Old 07 January 2008, 11:51   #4
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Pretty sure it wont be an issue.If it's worrying you, put an in-line 'jam jar' in the fuel line and keep an eye on it.
I'm with Mollers - put a water separator inline and keep monitoring it - As Pete says it's good practise to keep the tank topped up anyway - what are the rescue services like out there?
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Old 07 January 2008, 12:14   #5
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Hi Pete7

Thanks for your response,good advice and your kind offer.

Sorry I meant to say 280 Litre Tank

I have used a tractor in the past to launch and recover a 25ft Skyride Parasail boat which had in a Volvo Penta inboard,but this was considerably heavier than the 8.2 metre rib.

Also i'm trying to avoid the cost of hiring a tractor !!

I will be using a Toyota Hillux 2.5 litre Diesel Pick Up to launch, with a rope to recover, which will allow me to get some traction on a concrete surface.

The launching of a boat like this over here usually involves undoing the hitch (Jaw Hitch not ball hitch) but keeping it in place,reversing the vehicle fairly fast then hitting the brakes when the wheels of the trailer are on the hard damp sand.

what happens or should happen !! when you get it right is the trailer and boat hurtle rather quickly into the water with quite a splash,it sounds quite comical but seems to work quite well with Sand.Then the boat is untied and the trailer recovered with a rope that has already been attached.

Hopefully this will work the 8.2 metre rib with full fuel tank and T-top,a little larger than i'm used to launching,

Any other advice guys ?
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Old 07 January 2008, 12:18   #6
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Thanks

Yes,I will be sure to fit a fuel/water seperator
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Old 07 January 2008, 15:28   #7
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Would a riggid bar like a scaffold pole with a hitch welded on each end be a good idea or any help in launching
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Old 09 January 2008, 15:22   #8
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Hi PeterR,

I have often thought about your idea,it would make things a lot easier but the bar would really need to be able to unbolt.Otherwise it would be a mighty long trailer.
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Old 09 January 2008, 15:36   #9
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Hi PeterR,

I have often thought about your idea,it would make things a lot easier but the bar would really need to be able to unbolt.Otherwise it would be a mighty long trailer.
Do some research. There are available kits for trailer extensions that bolt on and are stored underneath the trailer. Used all the time on inland lakes with steep slips/ramps, in the USA. Search; trailer tongue extension.
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Old 09 January 2008, 17:45   #10
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Used all the time on inland lakes with steep slips/ramps, in the USA.
Surely on a steep slip it is less of an issue and this is more help on a shallow slip?
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Old 09 January 2008, 18:30   #11
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Surely on a steep slip it is less of an issue and this is more help on a shallow slip?
Yes and No. A lake is not tidal so there is a tendency for a whole lot of weed on the slip therefore you do not really want to get your tow car too far in if at all.
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Old 09 January 2008, 19:03   #12
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This is the sort of thing I mean. I may get one.
http://www.xtend-a-hitchnorthwest.com/
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Old 09 January 2008, 20:01   #13
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This guy has a good set up worth considering.
http://captainslog.janktheproofer.co...rextension.htm
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Old 10 January 2008, 03:30   #14
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Would a riggid bar like a scaffold pole with a hitch welded on each end be a good idea or any help in launching
Use with extreme caution...

I was given one with my first RIB and unbraked trailer. It behaved like a supermarket trolley on acid and at the first touch of the brakes, would overtake the towing vehicle and head like an exocet for the most expensive car in the car park.

Think I used it twice then donated it to Rogue.
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Old 10 January 2008, 03:49   #15
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Use with extreme caution...

I was given one with my first RIB and unbraked trailer. It behaved like a supermarket trolley on acid and at the first touch of the brakes, would overtake the towing vehicle and head like an exocet for the most expensive car in the car park.


I'm not surprised! You need the bar to be locked to the drawbar as well as the trailer hitch.
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Old 10 January 2008, 11:54   #16
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Hi Breezing,
The only real advantage a tractor would have over your Hi-Lux is the flotation over dry sand of its tyres. If you get stuck in the sand deflate your tyres to 12-20 psi to improve flotation, use low range and ease it out. Be sure to carry a 12v compressor with a long lead to re-inflate them though.
Our own boat is considerably smaller than yours but we often launched and recovered a mate's 27' inboard cruiser with tri-axle trailer across soft sand with our Landcruiser and usually had to deflate the tyres for purchase.
Paul
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Old 10 January 2008, 20:54   #17
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Originally Posted by Bittentobuggery View Post
Use with extreme caution...

I was given one with my first RIB and unbraked trailer. It behaved like a supermarket trolley on acid and at the first touch of the brakes, would overtake the towing vehicle and head like an exocet for the most expensive car in the car park.

Think I used it twice then donated it to Rogue.
They are not intended to drive with, just for backing down into the ogin and pulling out.
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Old 10 January 2008, 21:42   #18
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Condensation

I have been living in Venezuela (high relative humidity index) for 7 years now. My RIB has a 180 lt tank. My boat was fitted with a Racor Filter and water separation flask. Never had a problem with condensation.
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Old 12 January 2008, 18:07   #19
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to avoid condensation problems, a soft tank (made in pvc fabric, like Zodiac ones) is a good solution.
You could even insert it into your present tank if there were an easy access through the deck and into the tank.

But a good Racor filter is perfect
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Old 12 January 2008, 19:59   #20
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Wow - Thanks guys (& Girls) for all your great advice,all of great merit,certainly food for thought.
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