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Old 26 May 2013, 23:22   #1
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Building anchor locker zodiac 733 ??

So I am considering building an on deck anchor locker for my zodiac. Currently there is no good place to store the anchor. There is a large forward compartment that has an aluminum hatch but it opens the wrong way and there is no place for the rope to run.

I mocked this up with some cardboard. I think I'd push it forward a few inches. I was also thinking about leaving it open in the front towards the post but want a flip up top that you can sit or stand on. It will be plywood and fiberglass.

I have the large tow post but I'm not sure what part, if any, that plays in anchoring. There were a couple cleats on the deck behind the post that I have removed to paint again not sure if I need them back.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks
Jason
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Old 27 May 2013, 00:16   #2
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Jason, I'm interested to hear what you come up with. I currently have my anchor/chain/line in a milk carton. When I'm diving or surfing, I leave the crate on deck lashed to the two cleats. If I have no plans on anchoring, I put it down below (where it then slides back and is hard to reach).

Are you thinking of keeping the deck and just building a box on top? With bolt on tubes, how high can you go and how much volume can you get in there? (The bolt line being the height limitation) Or, would you put a hole in the deck to increase the volume and install a bulkhead to separate the anchor/rode from the large storage area? If you were to build the box right up to the edge of the aluminum hatch, can you reinstall the hatch the other way (opening aft) so that you can maximize the anchor locker?

Except for lashing the milk crate down, I've never used the two cleats for anything. I always tie off my anchor to the sampson post.
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Old 27 May 2013, 10:00   #3
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It doesn't look like I can move the hatch back any significant amount. The structure below will get in the way.

I'm sure I could punch into the deck and do something super fancy and creative but, unfortunately, thanks not me. I guess in essence I am looking to build a fancy milk crate.

It turns out there isn't all that much space there that's why I'm thinking about leaving the front open to the Samson post. Then the anchor could protrude up that way.

Jason
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Old 27 May 2013, 16:53   #4
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Here was my set up today. In a perfect world, I'd move the Freeman hatch aft for dry storage, and create a slightly raised anchor locker separated by a bulkhead.
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Old 27 May 2013, 16:54   #5
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Old 27 May 2013, 20:01   #6
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Yeah. There isn't room to move the hatch back.

I hadn't thought about space for bolting the tubes on. Duh. The holes are tapped over for painting.

So here is a 9lb delta, 20+' of chain and probably 150' of 1/2" line? I need a slightly bigger anchor but it should fit. I think I will leave it open to the post so have a back, sides, and top. Ill take the sides up towards the post and same with the top. Should make a nice seat when not in use.

I will just bolt it on, no need to build it in. We'll leave the super fancy rebuilds to Ryan :-)

I want to move it forward as much as possible so the hatch has room to flip open. Also don't want to make it bigger than it needs to.

Jason
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Old 28 May 2013, 11:20   #7
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Bolt-in box would allow access to the tube fixings if needed. Keep the post and use that as the anchor tie-off. Looks to me that a box the size of your cardboard mock-up would store a decent amount of rode and any anchor you'd need to use, assuming your access into the box allows it to fit through.

If you''re like me (roundabout way of saying that this is what I do) you'll have a spare set of ground tackle and a ton of spare line (tow rope, allegedly) in the under-deck storage.

jky
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Old 29 May 2013, 06:49   #8
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I made a bolt on fiberglass locker for my 530, although didn't have the samson post to deal with or an existing deck hatch. I'll try to remember to stick a photo or two on this evening.

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Old 29 May 2013, 19:00   #9
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that would be great!

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 03 June 2013, 18:25   #10
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Scroll forward from here in this album:
RIBnet Forums - ericmx29's Album: photos - Picture

Bolt it in using the holes from the cleats that you took off. By being removable, there's no height limitation due to where the tubes bolt on.

I'm thinking this is a really good option, and if done well, will look seamless, and be sturdy. I'm no expert in glassing but I think that I might have to add this to my list.
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Old 04 June 2013, 12:17   #11
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Finally got round to posting my pics

Locker Build

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Old 04 June 2013, 12:52   #12
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Phil,

That's a good looking project for a first timer. I was going to cheat and use a plywood core

Jason
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Old 04 June 2013, 19:10   #13
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Quote:
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I was going to cheat and use a plywood core.
I would too! If done right, you'd never be able to tell.
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Old 03 July 2013, 16:04   #14
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Well the time was right and the spirit moved me as they say. A couple hours of work with the saws and I have the start of an anchor locker.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm not sure how I'm going to do the lid.

Jason
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Old 04 August 2013, 16:33   #15
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It's coming along. Going to put the fuel fills up there too.
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Old 17 September 2013, 10:43   #16
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Well it looks something like this. There are a couple design issues I will fix when it breaks. I still need to bolt it down but can't do that until the tubes are on.
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Old 17 September 2013, 11:21   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtalljv View Post
Well it looks something like this. There are a couple design issues I will fix when it breaks. I still need to bolt it down but can't do that until the tubes are on.
Pretty...

I think I'll be copying you at some point int time. Are you going to use the holes in the deck from the cleats that were there?
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Old 17 September 2013, 11:30   #18
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i filled in most of them but left a couple just for location reference. I'll drill new ones when I am ready to mount. it's probably best to spread the bolts around a bit. I also wanted to put a cleat back but am not sure where I can do that so it would be usable.

If you build one think about different mounting for the top. I wanted hinges that would allow the top to fold all the way back but got the wrong ones and went with them because I also wanted them to be flush and not be something to snag stuff or flesh on. I might reconsider just a snap on top that comes off completely. If I had the tubes on I would have thought about it being hinged sideways but couldn't measure to see how it would fit.

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Old 17 September 2013, 11:48   #19
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Good info. Might be this winter. 1/4" ply core?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtalljv View Post
I also wanted to put a cleat back but am not sure where I can do that so it would be usable.
Vertical surface of the box facing aft?

I don't know what I would use them for. I've never used mine except to lash down the milk crate that has my anchor in it. For everything else, I use the samson post.
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Old 17 September 2013, 12:19   #20
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1/4 ply. Glassed both sides.

Not sure what I want it for. Guess I was thinking one more place to tie off wouldn't hurt. I'm always afraid of boats slipping off the anchor line. It's never happened but just a phobia I have

I wanted to keep the pokey protruding things to a minimum so I was thinking it would be inside the box somewhere but at this point I will fix it later if I need to. Seems to be a recurring theme for things that aren't totally vital....
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