Axle changing

Jimbob · 19 November 2005, 13:49

So this winter i have decided to change the axles for some new ones, i could get the individual parts however have decide just to change the whole lot and its seem that cost v time this is the best option for me

I have looked at the axles to find out which avonride they are, thus i can order. I have also established that taking the wheels off one set of axles at a time (will put wood under as well for support) allows me to get to the bolts holding the axle on - all well and good to here and it means i dont have to put the boat in the water.

The tricky bit, i cannot shift the bolts, any suggestions. I was thinking of putting penetarting oil on, but the are quite rusty.

I am sure someone has hit the same problem. The trailer is RM

codprawn · 19 November 2005, 14:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimbob

So this winter i have decided to change the axles for some new ones, i could get the individual parts however have decide just to change the whole lot and its seem that cost v time this is the best option for me

I have looked at the axles to find out which avonride they are, thus i can order. I have also established that taking the wheels off one set of axles at a time (will put wood under as well for support) allows me to get to the bolts holding the axle on - all well and good to here and it means i dont have to put the boat in the water.

The tricky bit, i cannot shift the bolts, any suggestions. I was thinking of putting penetarting oil on, but the are quite rusty.

I am sure someone has hit the same problem. The trailer is RM

Don't know about on a trailer but having restored several old vehicles I do know about rusty bolts!!!

WD40 works wonders - spray loads on - then loads more as it evaporates quite quickly.

Make sure you clean any rust off with a wire brush and then use a good socket that is a perfect tight fit. Use a breaker bar or similar or an old torque wrench you don't care about. It should move - depends on the size of course - if they are small - you may shear them off but if good quality bolts it's unlikely.

Are the bolts going into a blind hole or do they go staright through with nuts the other side? If the latter then you need to release the nuts first - no good just trying to turn the bolt.

I know people who have to resort to grinders and all sorts

pressman · 19 November 2005, 14:38

stick some heat on them but be carefull you do not burn off any galvanise.

The only other option is to shear them off( grinder will dig into galvanise however hard you try not to) then replace bolts, or i presume they are U bolts, when new ones are fitted, get some tectil spray and coat them with this, good stuff but also, spray area where bolt/nut is going to stop with the same before fitting.

Quote:

Originally Posted by codprawn

Don't know about on a trailer but having restored several old vehicles I do know about rusty bolts!!!

WD40 works wonders - spray loads on - then loads more as it evaporates quite quickly.

Make sure you clean any rust off with a wire brush and then use a good socket that is a perfect tight fit. Use a breaker bar or similar or an old torque wrench you don't care about. It should move - depends on the size of course - if they are small - you may shear them off but if good quality bolts it's unlikely.

Are the bolts going into a blind hole or do they go staright through with nuts the other side? If the latter then you need to release the nuts first - no good just trying to turn the bolt.

I know people who have to resort to grinders and all sorts

Jimbob · 19 November 2005, 15:31

Its attached using nuts and bolts, what i will do then is clean up the bolts the best i can, then put lots of WD or penetrating oil on and leave a while and see what happens over the next few weeks e.g keep putting it on and leaving for a week. Once i know they are moving then i will remove and put new nuts and bolts in, so when i get the axles (saving up

) it should be easy,,,,he says

After that heat then

After that call in the heavy mob

jwalker · 19 November 2005, 15:58

WD40 = light duty.

Get out the fekkn angle grinder and be done with it.

Use water resistant grease and stainless nuts when you reassemble it. Fixed for ever.

Mollers · 19 November 2005, 16:03

If you're worried about the galvanising, whip 'em off with a hacksaw. If you use quality blades it won't be too difficult. I use water pump grease, it's evil!

codprawn · 19 November 2005, 16:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

WD40 = light duty.

Get out the fekkn angle grinder and be done with it.

Use water resistant grease and stainless nuts when you reassemble it. Fixed for ever.

Animal.....

jwalker · 19 November 2005, 17:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by codprawn

Animal.....

Skill man, skill.

Mollers · 19 November 2005, 17:27

Real animals would put a petrol saw to it!! The precision tool of the "cut and shut" artiste!!

Pete7 · 19 November 2005, 17:57

Jimbob if they are that rusty they will shear off with a socket and piece of drain pipe, might want to ask yourself how strong they are if they are that corroded. Doesn't the Avonride axle have sealed for life bearings like alko ? not my favourite type.

Pete

Jimbob · 19 November 2005, 18:17

so Guys

The Nuts and bolts are rusty, but not to the stage where they would fail and you can still see the tread well, i think the first option is to try the oil and a bit of force. I'm not sure its very easy, if at all, to get a hacksaw in but again i will try.

The avonride, i just know they are 1300kg Axles, but for sure they are bad, you can here me coming so they need changing. I could leave it another year but i just like to keep things in good order

plenty of ideas, i will keep you posted, I'm off down next weekend to have a go, may take some pictures of the whole event.

Mark Halliday · 20 November 2005, 08:37

My replacement axel came from
http://www.peaktrailers.com/

I was a lot better than the old Alco one, and cheaper. You will need to give them a couple of measurements and they build them to order in around 2-3 weeks.
They use proper bearings etc, so you have some chance of serviceing them.

Get some Plus Gas for any seized nuts, which is far better than WD40.

Are the axels fixed to a length of angle iron which is U bolted to the chassis?
If they are, you will have to take a saw/angle grinder/nut splitter/lump hammer & cold chisel because these nuts are the are on C'sk screws between the angle and chassis. Once loose they will just spin.

Jimbob · 20 November 2005, 09:57

Mark H

Yes i think thats how its works, i think this allows the wheelbase to be changed (nose weight). As you say the U bolts attach to the main frame and the nut and bolts i am on about attach the axles to the "sub frame" that can be moved.

The avonrides have been OK, i just think the bloke who had it before me did not give the axles enough TLC.

All good advise so thanks, i will keep you posted good

or bad

Nos4r2 · 20 November 2005, 10:35

DONT oil them. All it'll do is make the socket slip and muller the bolt head unless you do it as below...

Best way is to heat them up with a blowtorch/acetylene kit then oil the threads while it's all still hot. Put a piece of metal plate between the bolt and your hull to reflect excess heat.KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY!
They should come free with a socket then.

If that sounds too risky, dotpunch the centre of the bolt head and drill it off then replace them.

jwalker · 20 November 2005, 10:52

Sorry Nos4r2, do not replace the bolts with stainles steel ones! They will work harden and possibly break. Use high tensile bolts and stainless nuts and washers. As I said before, put water resistant grease on everything when you reassemble. Castrol CL is really sticky. You can get it from Halfords.

Nos4r2 · 20 November 2005, 10:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

Sorry Nos4r2, do not replace the bolts with stainles steel ones! They will work harden and possibly break. Use high tensile bolts and stainless nuts and washers. As I said before, put water resistant grease on everything when you reassemble. Castrol CL is really sticky. You can get it from Halfords.

Fair comment...!-edited to remove that bit.

codprawn · 20 November 2005, 13:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

DONT oil them. All it'll do is make the socket slip and muller the bolt head unless you do it as below...

Best way is to heat them up with a blowtorch/acetylene kit then oil the threads while it's all still hot. Put a piece of metal plate between the bolt and your hull to reflect excess heat.KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY!
They should come free with a socket then.

If that sounds too risky, dotpunch the centre of the bolt head and drill it off then replace them.

How the hell can oil make the socket slip??? It does NOT work by friction - it is not going to make ANY difference as long as the socket is a proper fit!!!

Gear teeth don't slip when they are covered in oil do they???

Mark Halliday · 20 November 2005, 15:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by codprawn

It does NOT work by friction

Errr.......... yes it does.

codprawn · 20 November 2005, 16:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark Halliday

Errr.......... yes it does.

Are you sure???

I think you will find that it is down to leverage.

Hugh Jardon · 21 November 2005, 07:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by codprawn

How the hell can oil make the socket slip??? It does NOT work by friction - it is not going to make ANY difference as long as the socket is a proper fit!!!

Gear teeth don't slip when they are covered in oil do they???

gear teeth are lubricated to stop them wearing, no they wont slip because they mechanically cant, but, they can wear out due to the friction.

if a socket is the right size then it can not slip but if the socket is slightly the wrong size for the nut or bolt then lubrication could cause the two to slip, perhaps this is what is being referred to here