Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 09 May 2014, 03:46   #1
Member
 
boristhebold's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,612
Any tips for rigging an A Frame

Finally my replacement A Frame is ready, so im planning on rigging it this weekend, do you have any tips on rigging, I need to pull through the following cables;

AIS GPS Antanae cable
VHF Cable
Nav lights x 2
Steaming light

Im thinking of threading some good strong string through the various points on the A Frame, then putting some adhesive around the mounting holes, then threading the sring through the holes and mounting and loosely bolting down, then pull through the cables with the use of the string and final bolt down, then connecting cables in boat.

Does that sound reasonable or do you have a better method.
__________________

__________________
boristhebold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 May 2014, 04:48   #2
Member
 
James3402's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 47
If you have and thin wire push that through first then pull the string through. Then tie string to wire tape that then a bit of washing up liquid over the tape to help it through.
Hope that makes sense.
__________________

__________________
James3402 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 May 2014, 05:48   #3
RIBnet supporter
 
Chris Caton's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,294
if you can terminate direct to the nav light fittings rather than a joint that's the best way, then run directly back to the switches, less joints the better, but don't pull the wiring tight, leave some slack in the A frame, you never know if you'll need it in the future, talcum powder is good for lubrication to get things moving when pulling the cables through, and if you can use some corrugated hose when the cables exit the tube ends, just to protect them, if not a good layer of insulation tape

VWP - cable sleeving
__________________
Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
Chris Caton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 May 2014, 05:52   #4
RIBnet supporter
 
bedajim's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
Deburr any holes and fit grommets if possible
__________________
bedajim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 May 2014, 08:02   #5
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Boat name: Worth the wait
Make: Parker
Length: 7m +
Engine: Outboard
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,446
Find somewhere with protection!
This weekend looks pretty grim
__________________
Steve_B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 May 2014, 10:27   #6
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
I'd also suggest leaving a pull line (string or wire) in place in case you decide to add something at a later date.

If you do find you need to get a string in, tie a small piece of cloth on the end, and use a shop vac to suck it through.

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 May 2014, 10:56   #7
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,902
RIBase
All good tips.

Some of my own:-

Put a thin line in each hole so every wire is pulled through by it's own line. Make every line long enough (like a normal lazy line) that you don't lose it if the cable gets detached from it.

Tie a knot in the line and tape the cable to it (stops the line slipping in the taped join).

Put the longest cables in first and (assuming it's all coming out of one hole into the hull) leave the line on the longest cable for use later on if you want to install other things on the A-frame.
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09 May 2014, 11:13   #8
Member
 
boristhebold's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,612
All great tips thanks.

250knots yes the weather looks grim this weekend its doing my head in cant get on with it when it rains. im going to put my sailing waterproofs on and carry on with it. if it gets too wet will just do the prep and wait until its drier.
__________________
boristhebold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11 May 2014, 04:39   #9
Member
 
Oscarguitar's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Poole
Boat name: Half Cut
Make: Cobra 8.6
Length: 8m +
Engine: Verado 275
MMSI: 235104619
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 381
Hi,

When I replaced my VHF antenna cable and put in a second antenna for the FM radio I had a devil of a job feeding the wires through the A frame. In the end I went to Screwfix and bought one of these

http://m.screwfix.com/pr-gallery.htm?id=75807#imggal1

It's a cable and flex draw tape and made all the difference. You can borrow mine if you like. Alternative is an old throttle cable inner, however I found that too stiff to get round the bends on my frame which has some right angles to get round.

Good luck.
__________________
Oscarguitar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2014, 10:35   #10
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Oscar: Your link brings up the Screwfix top page. I assume you're talking about a cable fish tape?

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2014, 13:06   #11
Member
 
Nasher's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Ocean & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzi DT200EFI, DT9.9
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,425
I'm in the middle of doing mine at the moment, but unfortunately don't have any images yet.

I'm using grommets with a sleeve attached as per the image below.

I tried pushing a 'fish' through first but it kept jamming up.

I've had most success by wrapping the end of the cable in white insulation tape with a tail on the end about an inch long of just the tape folded in half.
Being white you can see it when it appears in the hole and then grab it with a pair of thin long nosed pliers.

Once the cable is pulled through the hole the grommet can be slid down the cable and forced through the hole.

It's worked for me on 3 cables so far.

One thing to note is how difficult it is to get a nice round hole in a bit of stainless tube with a hand held drill. You end up with something that looks like a 3 leaf clover instead.
I made up a jig that clamps around the tube and has a large bush welded to it to drill through, nice round hole every time that way.

I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow night.

Nasher.
Attached Images
 
__________________
RIBBED For extra pleasure.
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
Member of the Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Nasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2014, 13:25   #12
Member
 
maxitope's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: lancashire
Make: xpro 380
Length: 4m +
Engine: tohatsu 20hp 4stroke
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 36
RIBase
Try stainless 0.8 mig wire its very flexable and if u put a small loop in the end u can conect the wires to it and pull threw hope it helps
__________________
maxitope is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12 May 2014, 17:42   #13
Member
 
Nasher's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Ocean & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: Suzi DT200EFI, DT9.9
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,425
Stopped off at the boat to get some pictures on my way to the gym tonight.

The whole point of this for me was that when I leave the boat tied up anywhere people will raft up to it by putting a line around the 'A' Frame and hence the cables cable tied to it. They have been damaged on more than one occasion that way.

Excuse the quality of the 'after' images as the light was fading fast, plus the amount of green slime that's built up in the last couple of months.

I'm pleased with how much neater it looks.
The Anchor Light and Nav lights are now wired from one multicore cable rather than two separate twin core cables.
The other two cables are the Antenna Coax, and the GPS antenna cable.

I've included an image of the jig I made to drill the holes.

I'm going to make up a stainless guard to protect the cable run at the bottom, then it's just a bit more tidying up and a good clean required before it's finished.

Also I can't stress enough how easy the white insulation tape made getting the cables through the holes.

Nasher.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	RN 3.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	161.6 KB
ID:	94593   Click image for larger version

Name:	RN 1.jpg
Views:	140
Size:	200.4 KB
ID:	94594   Click image for larger version

Name:	RN 2.jpg
Views:	140
Size:	142.1 KB
ID:	94595  
__________________
RIBBED For extra pleasure.
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
Member of the Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Nasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 May 2014, 02:35   #14
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Enfield/Switzerland
Boat name: Zonneschijn II/Vixen
Make: Shakespeare/Avon
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evin' 175 DI /Yam 90
MMSI: 235055605
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
Nasher
Nice job!
__________________
Neil Harvey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 May 2014, 04:26   #15
Member
 
HughN's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Littlehampton, W Sx
Length: no boat
MMSI: 235101591
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 732
Net curtain wire every time!
__________________
"Can ye model it? For if ye can, ye understand it, and if ye canna, ye dinna!" - Lord kelvin
HughN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 13 May 2014, 06:05   #16
Member
 
boristhebold's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,612
In the end I put small diamter rope through each hole then mounted A frame, then loose bolted and pulled all cables through so no wires are visiable apart from to the side nav lights which I also used some black conduit to make a neat job. Used two core wire for lights which has a good protective outer cable. The only bitch was pulling the GPS cable through the hull but managed in the end. Talc on cables helped.
__________________
boristhebold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 14 May 2014, 10:33   #17
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxitope View Post
Try stainless 0.8 mig wire its very flexable and if u put a small loop in the end u can conect the wires to it and pull threw hope it helps
Safety wire (the stuff they use on race motors to keep nuts and bolts in place) works well. Cheap, too, at around $15 a pound. Don't know what "normal" stuff is, but I get the stainless, which can be left in place for the next time you need to pull something through.

jky
__________________

__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 14:59.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.