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Old 13 August 2015, 12:09   #1
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Another SR4 Aux Outboard Thread

For peace of mind, I'd really like to get some kind of aux for my SR4.

I know this has been discussed many times on here, I think I've searched and read a lot of posts, but wanted to post some pics and see what options for an auxiliary outboard may be for my setup...

It's a bit tight on there with the A Frame, YAM and the moulded transom supports don't help. I actually bought an electric outboard that just fit, although one of the screws couldn't be done up tight due to the transom supports, a bit of wood to raise it may have helped but I sent it back for a refund as I thought it was probably way underpowered - I'd prefer a petrol aux.

Also, anyone know what the bracket is for on the transom pictured? Could that be for some kind of auxiliary outboard bracket?
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Old 14 August 2015, 19:45   #2
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Just thinking about this, I wonder if it's an idea to move the a-frame inboard, reverse the bolts and add some spacers to leave an inch or so clearance for the main outboard steering.

Still doesn't leave a lot of space, but at the moment I'm thinking I could squeeze a Tohatsu 2.5 in there?
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Old 14 August 2015, 20:19   #3
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With the design you don't have many options open to you.

Even if you get an aux bracket I am not sure how you could fix it with the transom supports in the way?

The proper way would be to have a lip glassed on one side of the main, probably a bit OTT though.

Anyways, sorry for poor drawing, done with my pad but you get idea hopefully.

Bit of wood, 2 bolts drilled through your A frame. The other side a bit more tricky. Im thinking you may get away with making it from 1" copper pipe and hammering the ends flat with bends to suit, catch the U bolt at the bottom to save more holes in transom. If you have the skills you could make a kick ass one from stainless or get someone to weld up something for you and paint it to stop rust. If that is the case can maybe get the whole thing made from metal and weld to you A frame?

Hopefully someone with an sr4 can give you some pics of their own for inspiration.

A 3.3 would be ideal on there

Cheers
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Old 15 August 2015, 03:27   #4
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Don't think the U shaped thing is for an OB - just small screws. More like a light pole before the A was there. The upright bit of tube on the top of the transom I assume is a Rod holder?

The A is quite narrow, I guess made in painted light steel? Could you have it widened to be closer to the toobs, and use the space better that way?
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Old 15 August 2015, 07:37   #5
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I had the same problem with the moulded deck but without the a frame. I used existing screws and mountings and raised the transom by adding 45mm aluminium box section, topped with 20mm nylon and reinforced either side with sone 4mm nylon, again mounted with existing fittings.

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Perfect for my 3.5hp tohatsu and gives me full steering range on the main motor. Could even leave me room for a basic aframe in the future?

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Old 15 August 2015, 07:41   #6
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Is nylon not slippery...
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Old 15 August 2015, 09:23   #7
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Highly polished it would be possibly slippery against wet skin?? With the transom clamps done up I'd challenge anyone to move the aux, even a tiny bit, more likely of picking the back end of the boat up. Its never moved for me even in some of the fairly rough stuff.
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Old 15 August 2015, 18:59   #8
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Quote:
Bit of wood, 2 bolts drilled through your A frame. The other side a bit more tricky. Im thinking you may get away with making it from 1" copper pipe and hammering the ends flat with bends to suit, catch the U bolt at the bottom to save more holes in transom. If you have the skills you could make a kick ass one from stainless or get someone to weld up something for you and paint it to stop rust. If that is the case can maybe get the whole thing made from metal and weld to you A frame?
Quote:
I had the same problem with the moulded deck but without the a frame. I used existing screws and mountings and raised the transom by adding 45mm aluminium box section, topped with 20mm nylon and reinforced either side with sone 4mm nylon, again mounted with existing fittings.
Some really good ideas there.

Shrimpy, Really good to see your pics on a similar setup . With the A-frame in the way, a combination of those approaches may work, although I'm not really proficient enough at DIY - at least not confident enough on my pride and joy.

On a similar note, maybe an outboard bracket may be the way to go, although as above I'm very nervous about drilling holes on the transom in case I screw anything up....
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Old 19 September 2015, 02:36   #9
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Just had a thought.
Looking around at the sr4 for a rib maybe next year .
Some have 40 hp and some have 50 hp outboard engines.

Is there a possibility of fitting 2 x 25 hp outboard engines or will there not be enough room or is it over the recommended weight.

I was thinking twins as if one stopped for some reason The other could be used as an auxiliary.

Rather than a single and a smaller aux with the same fitting problems.
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Old 19 September 2015, 02:51   #10
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You won't get the same power / speed from 2x 25 as 1x50. Search twins versus single for many discussions of this. You double the servicing costs, double the chances something goes wrong with one of the engines and you don't go out at all, and unless your fuel and electrics are totally independent you still run the risk of the most common faults affecting both engines. Unless you are boating in some safety critical area where an anchor is unlikely to work then most people conclude it is not worth it.
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Old 19 September 2015, 02:58   #11
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And I haven't checked, but 2*25 may be over weight for transom. So you end up going may 2*20, getting 40 horses on the back with power of a single 30!
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Old 19 September 2015, 03:39   #12
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Not a good idea then.

So it,s back to the title of this thread what aux engine and how to fit it.

The other option is a 5mtr rib Is this worth considering ? anything above this size and there will be storage problems well for me anyway..

I just do not like the idea of a single engine just in case.

I thought the sr4 for storage and the towing weight. Was hoping not to have to buy another car.

Any body have any idea on the weight of a 5 mtr complete package.?
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Old 19 September 2015, 03:52   #13
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It depends, but you can get 5m under 750kg all up weight if that is your limit.

An Aux is a good idea, it will be about what fits. On a sr4 that is likely to be an old small 2str. How far that will get you is another issue -- where do you boat-
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Old 19 September 2015, 04:07   #14
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It depends, but you can get 5m under 750kg all up weight if that is your limit.

An Aux is a good idea, it will be about what fits. On a sr4 that is likely to be an old small 2str. How far that will get you is another issue -- where do you boat-
Southampton at the moment but moving soon to whom knows where..
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Old 19 September 2015, 06:49   #15
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There are still options. Getting a Tohatsu 3.5hp or Mariner 3.3hp would be a good auxiliary. You might even get away with short shafts given its location.

I used to have a Zodiac Pro with a Yamaha 40hp main engine and squeezed a Tohatsu in. You have the advantage, as the Pro had a lipped transom.

Now the decision. Fit an adjustable bracket, and quite honestly it will rattle like a toolbox in a Vauxhall Viva. It be tempted to see if you could get something like this fabricated but with a far shorter stem box section. Over-engineered maybe, but it's not going anywhere.

I'd also ratchet the engine when it's in the up position. With a stainless steel U-bolt on the deck.
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Old 19 September 2015, 10:03   #16
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I have been looking into this and there isn't enough room on the transom on the port side as the stearing arm on my mercury 40 on full lock goes almost to the tube so would foul on a up tilted outboard so it would have to go on the starboard side but all the cables pipework ect runs up that side .tbh I think if you can get one mounted on the transom itself it will be very tight
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Old 20 September 2015, 01:43   #17
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If you see this Zodiac Pro - they squeezed a Tohatsu on the starboard side by buying the auxilliary bracket hard up next to the tube. Pretty sure the same can be done with an SR4. The A-frame is your biggest issue. You could lose the A-frame and consider a lightpole.
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