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22 March 2010, 16:22
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Johnson 60
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2
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Anchoring - RIB Tie/Cleat points
Hi all,
I used to tie up my anchor on my previous speed boat via the cleats/rails on the bow, but my new RIB has no such things !
(Boat is an AVON 4.65 mtr Sea Sport)
I assume all I have to anchor off is the "D" ring in the centre of the fiberglass the hull under the front tubes which is not easy/ impossible to lean over and tie to. I guess I can have a connecting rope to "flip up" when required but this doesnt seem very neat.
I was thinking of adding a folding cleat at the very front seat/anchor hold area so you could still sit down without it poking up but this would mean the anchor rope coming up over the front tubes when at anchor. This doesnt seem right so does anyone anchor off this way ie with rope going over the tubes and is this what you do or a no no ?
Or do you guys tie the anchor to elsewhere eg the side ropes ???
Any help or assistance is greatly appraciated.
much appreciated
RIB Newbie
Simon
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22 March 2010, 16:33
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Welcome to the forum.
I use a painted that is spliced to the D ring in the bow. When I need to anchor I put a loop/back hander in the anchor rope then clip the painter to this.
Retrieval is easy as you still have the anchor rope in the boat so you can pull the painter round and untie it.
I have the painter either clipped to the lifelines on the tube or on the grab handle on the console.
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22 March 2010, 17:00
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: North Lincolnshire
Boat name: Mary Olwen
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: OB, Petrol, 140HP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy
Welcome to the forum.
I use a painted that is spliced to the D ring in the bow. When I need to anchor I put a loop/back hander in the anchor rope then clip the painter to this.
Retrieval is easy as you still have the anchor rope in the boat so you can pull the painter round and untie it.
I have the painter either clipped to the lifelines on the tube or on the grab handle on the console.
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+1
Just make sure your painter isn't long enough to foul the prop if it comes loose and goes under the boat!
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22 March 2010, 17:02
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon P
I guess I can have a connecting rope to "flip up" when required
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Welcome and yes this is the way to do it
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22 March 2010, 17:29
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Scillies
Boat name: Freedom
Make: Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 2st 90
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 335
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same as Chewy.
Ian
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22 March 2010, 17:56
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#6
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,906
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I have a 6inch high sampson post bolted to the floor in the Bow, and an open rubber section over the tubes.
The Anchor line runs through the channel, and I put a few wraps aound the post.
The tube provides a little bit of protection from snatch, although I don't leave the boat anchored for long, overnight, or in rough weather.
Nasher.
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22 March 2010, 18:07
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: NW& wherever the boat is!
Boat name: depends on m'mood!
Make: Humbers/15-24m cats
Length: 6m +
Engine: etec130/big volvos
MMSI: many and various
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,816
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we spec our boats up with a jamming cleat anchor fitting on the bow, and it is useful for quick anchoring and esp for veering down to a casualty when acting as safety boat or whatever. Just drop the rope in the cleat and its anchored. But I wouldnt leave it there for any length of time or in strong tides, the painter gets tied into the anchor rope then, never to the end of the anchor rope - always leaving a length of it (the lazy line) coming back into the boat for retrieval time
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22 March 2010, 18:28
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#8
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher
I have a 6inch high sampson post bolted to the floor in the Bow, and an open rubber section over the tubes.
The Anchor line runs through the channel, and I put a few wraps aound the post.
The tube provides a little bit of protection from snatch, although I don't leave the boat anchored for long, overnight, or in rough weather.
Nasher.
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Oh man, I miss JSP...
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22 March 2010, 18:33
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Jersey
Boat name: Sea Quest
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mariner 150hp Mag3
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 49
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Those jamming rubber jamming cleats are ok but they tend to work loose very quickly, or the rope just slides straight through if there is any sort of deasent froce applied., I ended up bolting a deasent sized cleat to the deck and using that rubber jamming cleat to keep the rope in place.
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22 March 2010, 21:38
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#10
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Member
Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
Oh man, I miss JSP...
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Yeah, I put Rubber and Snatch in the same post and nobody bit did they
Nasher
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22 March 2010, 21:52
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#11
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher
Yeah, I put Rubber and Snatch in the same post and nobody bit did they
Nasher
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Your 6" Sampson Post almost got a nibble though
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23 March 2010, 10:13
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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Same as the others.
On a variation, if you on a visitor mooring, you can also tie the painter to that, but add a short retreival line unless you got a boathook.
Whatever happens, remenber to have the boat end of the anchor warp fixed to something inside the hull (cleat or an eye nut on the back of the D- ring threads at the bow)
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23 March 2010, 10:15
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
On a variation, if you on a visitor mooring, you can also tie the painter to that, but add a short retreival line unless you got a boathook.
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Thats where I go wrong, I just hang over the bow trying to find the D ring!
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23 March 2010, 10:59
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Avon
Length: 4m +
Engine: Johnson 60
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 2
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Thanks everyone for your replies and for your welcomes.
Great site too !
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23 March 2010, 22:58
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Central Belt of Scotland
Boat name: Puddleduck III
Make: Bombard
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50 HP
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dry_Doc
+1
Just make sure your painter isn't long enough to foul the prop if it comes loose and goes under the boat!
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a rope that is longer enough to reach the prop is not a painter!...
i teach definition of painter: rope attached to bow, that can not foul engine.
S.
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01 April 2012, 15:33
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Custard Pie
Make: Humber
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy
Welcome to the forum.
I use a painted that is spliced to the D ring in the bow. When I need to anchor I put a loop/back hander in the anchor rope then clip the painter to this.
Retrieval is easy as you still have the anchor rope in the boat so you can pull the painter round and untie it.
I have the painter either clipped to the lifelines on the tube or on the grab handle on the console.
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Sorry for the thread revival, but I was about to ask a similar question. Can you please post a pic or diagram so that I can better understand this method?
Thanks
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01 April 2012, 23:26
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ardfern
Boat name: Moon Raker
Make: Humber Destroyer
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF 90 D
MMSI: 235035994
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 694
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I attach the painter (spliced to the D ring on the hull) to the anchor warp with a rolling hitch, then ease the warp out to give plenty of slack (to allow for the boat sheering in the gusts) and make it fast to a side cleat on the tube as a back up. Even in very strong winds overnight, the rolling hitch has held and not slipped.
Easy, quick and cheap.
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12 June 2012, 08:06
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#18
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Member
Country: Belgium
Length: 5m +
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 90
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do you have a picture of this - I don't understand what painter is...
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12 June 2012, 09:40
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ardfern
Boat name: Moon Raker
Make: Humber Destroyer
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF 90 D
MMSI: 235035994
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarflyRIB
do you have a picture of this - I don't understand what painter is...
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'Painter' is English nautical jargon for the length of rope attached (usually permanently) to the bow of a small boat/dinghy, which is used to tie the boat up to something, or tow it.
On RIBs it is usually permanently attached to the 'D' ring on the stem head (bow) and led to a cleat on the tubes when under way. You must make sure that it is not long enough to foul the propeller if it falls over the side.
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