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Old 15 June 2016, 11:20   #1
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
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Zodiac transom wheels replacement turnkey/bolts.

I now have Firstrib's old Zodiac OE transom wheels.... the Aerotec/Futura/Classic HD type.

Bought knowing he'd lost one of the turnkeys and the replacement didn't want to screw in. So happy to sort a nut/bolt if needed but want to investigate more why the new turnkey thread is wrong.

Have a look in the images below where the original turnkey is the one on the left in both cases. You can see the design of the replacement he sourced shown on the right is slightly different.

Most important... and the camera doesn't show how obvious it is in real life... the original one has a much greater rake to the thread (to screw in quicker?) so the new one which is a more standard thread won't even start slightly in the leg threaded holes.

Could anyone with the same legs have a look at their turnkeys to see if they all appear identical to the original in this case? I suspect... assuming the replacement sourced by Firstrib was a genuine Zodiac... Zodiac may have had a batch made to the wrong thread spec.

At £20 bit reluctant to order another replacement from Zodiac in case that's wrong too... and I never get close to a Zodiac dealer who might have one for me to try in the leg.
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Old 15 June 2016, 15:45   #2
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Country: UK - England
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Make: Zodiac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
I now have Firstrib's old Zodiac OE transom wheels.... the Aerotec/Futura/Classic HD type.

Bought knowing he'd lost one of the turnkeys and the replacement didn't want to screw in. So happy to sort a nut/bolt if needed but want to investigate more why the new turnkey thread is wrong.

Have a look in the images below where the original turnkey is the one on the left in both cases. You can see the design of the replacement he sourced shown on the right is slightly different.

Most important... and the camera doesn't show how obvious it is in real life... the original one has a much greater rake to the thread (to screw in quicker?) so the new one which is a more standard thread won't even start slightly in the leg threaded holes.


Could anyone with the same legs have a look at their turnkeys to see if they all appear identical to the original in this case? I suspect... assuming the replacement sourced by Firstrib was a genuine Zodiac... Zodiac may have had a batch made to the wrong thread spec.

At £20 bit reluctant to order another replacement from Zodiac in case that's wrong too... and I never get close to a Zodiac dealer who might have one for me to try in the leg.
Hi David

I had to replace my turnkeys recently and apparently the threads were changed a few years ago. If you have older wheels the new bolts won't quite fit, I ran a tap through the the transoms wheels and they work fine now. I can't remember where I bought mine from (it was late last year) but the place I found was considerably cheaper than everyone else (they warned me about the threads before I purchased) but where there is a welded join this has already started to rust (guess the weld isn't done stainless too, been told that stainless should be done differently to standard steel otherwise the weld rusts) hope yours don't do the same !
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Old 15 June 2016, 15:46   #3
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Country: UK - England
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oh by the way the old type (thread) are no longer made (apparently)
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Old 15 June 2016, 17:12   #4
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
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Join Date: Nov 2007
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Ahhh excellent info .... that explains the whole thing. Oddly I did try the replacement turnkey in a standard M8 nut and it didn't go so I assume that's another odd thread.

I've already ordered something M6 to bolt right through that can be done up with fingers far easier than a nut and bolt so will just look out for the million to one chance of an old turnkey appearing from some dusty shelf in the future.

Did you see the thread where I mentioned about swapping the wheels to lose some buoyancy?
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Old 15 June 2016, 20:04   #5
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
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Posts: 8,308
BTW no rust on these but I've owned several sets before over the years and have noticed light rust on the welds before.
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Old 16 June 2016, 08:06   #6
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,308
I 've said previously I've owned several versions of the Zodiac OE wheels and for interest here is my first set. They were a quality way above any of the other variants and I've never seen another pair like that... wish I'd kept them as they would have looked great on the Aerotec.

But note... I never had the turnkeys for those so used a coachbolt and wingnut.
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Old 16 June 2016, 11:36   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
I 've said previously I've owned several versions of the Zodiac OE wheels and for interest here is my first set. They were a quality way above any of the other variants and I've never seen another pair like that... wish I'd kept them as they would have looked great on the Aerotec.

But note... I never had the turnkeys for those so used a coachbolt and wingnut.
They look really good in black ! could almost be tempted to paint mine.

Zodiac dont actually make their own transom wheels by the way (the Zodiac rep told me). He also said that Zodiac have currently lost their supplier and they dont have launch wheels available at the moment (they may have already found a replacement supplier). Guess this is why they change from time to time.
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Old 16 June 2016, 11:41   #8
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Country: UK - England
Town: Maidstone
Boat name: na
Make: Zodiac
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard 25p 2stroke
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
Ahhh excellent info .... that explains the whole thing. Oddly I did try the replacement turnkey in a standard M8 nut and it didn't go so I assume that's another odd thread.

I've already ordered something M6 to bolt right through that can be done up with fingers far easier than a nut and bolt so will just look out for the million to one chance of an old turnkey appearing from some dusty shelf in the future.

Did you see the thread where I mentioned about swapping the wheels to lose some buoyancy?
Where is that thread then ?

I may get the Aerotec out later and eye up the transom so that I can gather some suitable size wood for shims. Should be out this weekend with a group of people so will finally try the Aerotec with some weight in the front. Not been out recently as have been so disheartened with it, haven't enjoyed my few outings so far at all.

Have a replacement air pump too so should be able to get it to correct pressure without doubts too.

Hopefully I'll be posting about how much fun I had
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Old 16 June 2016, 12:18   #9
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,308
This re the wheels...

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/best-wh...els-72495.html

Yep a shim or two and some ballast/crew should improve matters massively.
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Old 19 June 2016, 19:10   #10
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Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,308
Given it is such a long shot I'd ever find an early matching turnkey I've made what will be my permanaent alternative. A nut and bolt is obvious but you either need to carry spanners to hand or leave it rattling so my answer is...

Used a long shank stainless eye and matching female eye for the other side. These can be tightened easily by hand and with the way stainless tends to bind when done up I think this will stay tight for even our longest road transit.
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