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Old 24 May 2022, 03:32   #1
909
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Zodiac H2P Acti-V Keel . Attn: Fenlander

How do you keep the keel straight. It pulls to one side.

How do you prevent the locking buttons from moving.

They feel like they want to pierce through the hull.
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Old 24 May 2022, 08:58   #2
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Ah yes... a very annoying flaw in this design. The high pressure keel has its own ideas about its positioning when you inflate and having it on the ground when you inflate can influence it even more. The only way to see how it is aligned and get it in the correct position it to have someone lift the boat up resting on the cones and push the keel into a central position as it inflates... this also needs a very long pump hose.

However when you get back from a few hours out it is likely you'll see the keel has settled back to its own preferred position anyway when on the water.

To help get the most central keel position take the floor out and inflate to full pressure upside down. It is likely you'll see the keel doesn't sit at 90deg to the floor and you can influence this a bit by trying re-fitting the floor-keel joining hose with a different twist.

If you mean the buttons/toggles that hold the keel to the outer skin yes they are an imperfect solution too. On mine the started to rip through in the first week of use and yes they can be trapped under the keel as you inflate and show in the outer skin.
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Old 25 May 2022, 03:14   #3
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Thanks

Very informative post .

Terrible design !
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Old 25 May 2022, 09:16   #4
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Have you tried any modifications. My idea is to remove the hardware buttons, and attach PVC permanently from the underside of the floor to the top of the keel. Essentially making a mini "hull" , restricting any left / right movement. Will it work.
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Old 25 May 2022, 10:02   #5
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Could you emulate a grab handle design to create loops to replace the fixings?
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Old 25 May 2022, 10:16   #6
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Country: UK - England
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I didn't mess about with mods given this was a brand new boat with just a week on the water. Another fault was the transom starting to delaminate. It was actually a replacement for the previous new one which suffered welded seam failure on first inflation.

I took a full refund from the dealer and bought a Chinese made Honwave for about 400 less which was free of faults.
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Old 25 May 2022, 10:20   #7
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This is what happened with the first boat to the cone-tube joint on initial inflation out of the box.
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Old 25 May 2022, 10:50   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TmMorris View Post
Could you emulate a grab handle design to create loops to replace the fixings?
Really interesting idea TmMorris. Care to elaborate ? Thanks

The way it comes from the factory, it's intended to attach to the hull and the air floor . I say , forget attaching it to the hull, and only secure it to the floor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
I didn't mess about with mods given this was a brand new boat with just a week on the water. Another fault was the transom starting to delaminate. It was actually a replacement for the previous new one which suffered welded seam failure on first inflation.

I took a full refund from the dealer and bought a Chinese made Honwave for about 400 less which was free of faults.

This is what happened with the first boat to the cone-tube joint on initial inflation out of the box.
Makes sense.

I wouldn't modify a new boat either.

These boats aren't cheap.
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Old 25 May 2022, 11:03   #9
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To understand what's happening:

Essentially you have a rectangular keel standing tall like building.

On either side of that building are 4 hard plastic buttons securing it to the floor and hull. 2 on top . 2 on the bottom.

When that building falls, the buttons get sandwiched between the hull , keel , and floor.

You'll likely rip a hole through the hull or the floor very easily if you're not careful.
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Old 29 May 2022, 12:47   #10
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Took it out for the first time.

Not bad, it didn't move too much.
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