Which roofrack for 3.5M RIB (Ford Ka) - Page 8

Firstrib · 24 January 2016, 10:55

Unrelated, but this video makes me laugh - especially the unlawful towing - just shows you what is possible with the Aerotec!

Firstrib · 24 January 2016, 10:56

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Utd4_-28VY

Firstrib · 24 January 2016, 11:31

Another question - I have an 8" tablet running Navionics Boating HD in a waterproof which is good but need to fix it to the seat or hand hold, any ideas rather than taping so I can get it at the right angle in the sunlight to see the screen?

Fenlander · 24 January 2016, 12:15

24kts and no spray... that's worked out a good combo.

Re bow rope I always check it's pulled tight inside the boat and tied off before getting under way.

Yep I like the scooter towing too... we are taking a 2wk holiday for the second year running in a place that's amazing for SIB use but the only tiny downside is to hide the SIB away means pulling it up a short hill to the cottage garden. It's a very quiet road and I'm tempted to get the Mrs to drive and I'll sit in the estate loadspace with the tailgate up and holding onto the bow handle.

Re the "right" side to sit. Personal choice of course but I always sit the other side to you... i.e. on the starboard tube. My reasons are that with the outboard tiller on port side sitting starboard you are sitting upright travelling straight ahead and when pulling the tiller towards your body isn't in the way. Then on an extreme starboard turn you are leaning into the boat towards the C of G as you push the tiller over.

If you are already sitting to port and need to do a sharp starboard turn you are in the way of the tiller and tend to shift/lean away to pull it round risking unbalancing backwards into the water.

Also if you are helming when it cuts up rough and need to move to kneel on the floor the tiller is in the way if you start from the port tube.

Re tablet... any ideas from these images...

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ta...1gDu4Q_AUIBygC

Firstrib · 24 January 2016, 12:20

Fenlander. Very very good points, thank you. I will try the Starboard seat and build my left arm muscles.

Firstrib · 24 January 2016, 12:24

I will tie off the bow rope going forward.

Max... · 24 January 2016, 14:32

Yes, the which side to sit is an old chestnut on here but general consensus (by no means universal) is pilot from the starboard tube. Most OB's are designed for use on the SB side, this is the way the RNLI have always taught it in there SIB's (and as finlander states you need to do it this wat when kneeling in the V, again all RNLI SIB's are generally helmed this way) and the tiller is much better positioned that way, the throttle also rotates the correct way if you're used to a motorbike throttle.

Max... · 24 January 2016, 14:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firstrib

Another question - I have an 8" tablet running Navionics Boating HD in a waterproof which is good but need to fix it to the seat or hand hold, any ideas rather than taping so I can get it at the right angle in the sunlight to see the screen?

You just need some sort of universal joint or make a simple bracket out of aluminium plate kind of related here:

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/bombard...tml#post683786

I'd highly recommend a fuel bladder too, frees up a lot of space. And a tiller extension so you can get your weight further forward.

ShinyShoe · 24 January 2016, 15:11

Your 'front rope' (painter) dropping in the water is a very common occurrence. As a result you should make it just short enough it can't foul the prop. Put a spliced eye in the end and carry additional line which can have a sheetbend used to attach it to the painter

Firstrib · 14 February 2016, 21:46

Hello, the Thames (4th) adventure was on Saturday, Fulham to Richmond again, with the excitement of Richmond Lock and the PLA lock keeper on Channel 80. There were lots of rowers including Oxford University preparing for the Oxford and Cambridge boat race.

I do now begin to accept why most people don't go out in the winter time, it took 1.5 hours to warm up when moored at Richmond.

Only two mishaps this time, dropped the wheel key right in the middle of the Thames for the Bombard Aerotec 380 (has a slight spiral angle to the thread) and can't find a replacement for my 2001 model. The genuine part has a different thread on it (straight non angled thread) - so if anyone has any ideas for a replacement. I did an excellent repair with a clamp (see photo).

The second mishap was a careless one, running the prop aground at Richmond, so took a chunk out of it, only a small one, so now two chunks - question, is this ok for now or serious - see picture.

Piloting from starboard side now, it does seem better, the only thing is that my left arm is not as strong as my right and against the current, the tiller pulled to the port side quite strongly and it felt a battle to control it on this trip, I found myself pulling it strongly to starboard to keep on course at speed, the floor was not quite sitting correctly and I wonder if that was the reason, or the chipped prop - any ideas on this one?

Got a nice camcorder case to hold the battery which I now disconnect for safety and only use for lights and the occasional electric start.

I have also planned the place for the light pole on the starboard side over the metal plate, just an inch or so for the pole avoiding the wheel movements and tiller.

I am now looking for somewhere to moor overnight on a Saturday as the set up and take down same day is a bit much, any ideas welcome around the Fulham/Chelsea area.

Are you getting out this time of the year or preparing for Spring?

Firstrib · 14 February 2016, 21:50

Prop pics

Firstrib · 14 February 2016, 21:52

More prop pics

Firstrib · 14 February 2016, 21:58

Screw emergency repair

Fenlander · 14 February 2016, 22:49

>>>Are you getting out this time of the year or preparing for Spring?

We managed loads of outings in 2015 but so far this year has been plans and prep stuff. At the moment one of our daughters needs support in a sat/sun weekend activity and that's taking out our boating opportunities... no matter as we have some fantastic possibilities as the year moves on.

Very close to buying a new engine and that will need running in so once purchased I won't be able to resist getting some salt water through it.

Another great report of your outings. The prop is looking a little ragged compared to the initial images of your outfit but it doesn't look ready for overhaul yet.

Losing the threaded key is one of the big disadvantages of that wheel type. There were three variants at least of the wheel set as supplied by Zodiac (I've had all three types). One had the leg in a high grade black coating, then a galvanised type and also a shiny plated type. But as far as I know there is only one Zodiac part no for the replacement (expensive!) threaded key. Have you been to a dealer to try one in yours?

Not quite sure what you mean by straight and spiral thread differences??

What I have done in the past is to get a high grade stainless bolt with wing nut that is just smaller than the existing thread on the leg so the bolt slides through. I've also always carried a spare pair of these bolts/wingnuts when using this transom wheel type just in case I lost the proper threaded key.

If the floor wasn't settled down properly that could have steered the boat a bit... also has the outboard a variable trim tab above the prop and could this have been knocked out of place?

That camcorder case for a battery holder is a great simple idea I'd not thought of... I have loads of old small camcorder ones spare which would be perfect for the battery and coiled excess cable from my Garmin GPS/depthsounder. I can hang it as you've shown from the grab "rail" near the seat... thanks for the idea.

Max... · 15 February 2016, 07:32

Well done for getting out, we are pretty much 'fair weather fairies' and the boat has been packed away for a few months now. Normally think about getting it out after Easter. The Land Rover thing didn't help...

I'd get a file on the prop and tidy it up. not sure it will create the pulling effect, our Tohatsu did this pretty badly but the Mariner is really easy with no pull to one side.

jeffstevens763@g · 15 February 2016, 07:55

yep as above tidy the prop up to keep it in balance.
on your bolts tie a lanyard on them that way if you drop it its on the end of the string.
i would invest in a decent flotation suit to keep you warm such as a fladen & neoprene welly's.wind chill at speed is a killer especially if clothing is tight plenty of layers thermals are good too bit old fashioned but hey better to be warm than cold and look good
steering wise i am the same as you if i don't use my left hand the boats all over the place so i stick to sitting on the port side unless trolling.
the battery bag is spot on by the way.
keep going out to iron out the the little things that need attention, i would seriously think about a spare prop just in case you ding yours proper especially in rivers with all the crap that's been thrown in over the years.

cheers

Nick Hearne · 17 February 2016, 13:07

Turn key NO. Z2281 I bought one from Salterns Boatyard back in 2008 cost me £17.17 posted but they do come in pairs so you will have a spare!

Firstrib · 20 February 2016, 11:17

Hi, thank you both for the encouragement and as always to Fenlander. Below I show the difference between the two bolts with the same part number. I need the off angle 2001 twisted one. Thanks. I will try that supplier you recommend. A pair, tied on isn't a bad idea.

RE the prop, may invest in a spare one. Is this the repairable on the water with socket set if I have a disaster?

I am going to start a couple of new threads on visitor moorings on the Tidal Thames and Sib to the Isle of Wight (Ryde), the next adventure.

Fenlander · 20 February 2016, 11:28

It's a little difficult to judge with the slight camera distortion but the leading end of your old bolt seems to have the same thread pitch as the new one... the thread only looks more angled towards the crank handle..... as if the top of the thread has been stretched by overtightening.

I'd be proving this by popping to a local hardware store and trying a correct size nut on both.

It could be that the thread inside the leg has become distorted over time in a way that matches the old bolt so now the new bolt isn't an easy fit.

What happens when you gently try screwing the new one into the leg... is it immediately tight?

Poly · 20 February 2016, 13:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firstrib

RE the prop, may invest in a spare one. Is this the repairable on the water with socket set if I have a disaster?

Do you mean can you change a prop afloat?

The easy answer is yes. Things are not quite so simple in reality. With a L/Shaft engine on a small boat the prop is a long reach over the transom which makes it at least awkward, and potentially dangerous depending on the conditions, who else is on board etc. I've heard of people on bigger boats actually going for a "swim" to do it.

The good news is that usually when you ding the prop you are close to shore so can at least anchor.

So lets assume you've got the boat in a safe, sheltered spot, and disconnected the kill cord etc. You first need to remove the split pin - usually you'll need pliers. Assume you'll drop it so you'll need a spare split pin. Then you need to remove the castellated nut - it shouldn't be ridiculously tight but you will need a spanner or socket the right size. Check before you go, usually this is bigger than most small tool kits include; you can get a floating spanner. You then need to remove the prop from the shaft. Hopefully it just slides off (because you greased the shaft last time right?) - but you might need something to help get it moving, especially if your angle is a bit awkward. Now you may find the thrust washer is stuck to the old prop - so you either need a spare thrust washer or some way to prise it off (like a big screwdriver). Some marine grease on the shaft and reassemble in the reverse order, doing the nut up finger tight and then just enough to get the split pin through. You'll appreciate that doing this hanging half upside down off the transom in a swell is not going to be trivial and having all your tools etc on a lanyard will make it much less likely to go badly wrong. I strongly suggest practicing in the driveway or somewhere else much less hostile so you know what to expect!

I imagine most SIBbers will just use low revs to limp ashore and either straighten the worst of the damage with some pliers/lump of wood or make alternative arrangements but I take a spare on holiday with me as missing a couple of days whilst trying to source one would be a PITA.