strapping down a fuel tank

SeanKent · 09 July 2014, 16:36

Finally have the outboard running as it should on the zodiac M2 GT I bought a few months ago.

Managed to get some speed up but this did cause the fuel tank to bounce about quite a bit. I've been thinking about how to secure it down, little nervous of bolting through the floor (worried about bolts/screws poking through and damaging the floor underneath).

I do have a supplier of some pretty strong glue and thought of gluing some straps with ratchets to the wooden section of floor up the front of the boat but not sure if will hold up or not. Thought I'd try to find out what others do ?

The new found speed has also detached the floor a bit so looks like I have some repair work to do there (reading various posts it appears to be hypalon so not the end of the world).

I have mentioned before in a previous post that the baffles have blown, though general advice was not to get involved, I'm still a bit tempted (rest of boat seems in such good condition and like the thought of a winter project). I can't find any guides or information on how to repair these, can anyone point me in the right direction ?

Thanks

Bushrider · 09 July 2014, 16:45

I use in my boats airline rails for all kind of applications .
Just last weekend I installed 2 of the for 2 tanks and a storage box .
I glue the with Sikaflex to the deck with additional screws .
In my Searider this construction survived well the Round Ireland last year .

Max... · 09 July 2014, 17:14

Post below may help, use flush SS fittings and eye bolts:

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/sib-alu...tml#post621967

Peter_C · 09 July 2014, 17:21

So do I understand it correctly that the floor is separating from the tube? What year is the boat?

This thread has more info and I posted a few photos.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/best-pl...ank-62856.html

SeanKent · 09 July 2014, 18:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter_C

So do I understand it correctly that the floor is separating from the tube? What year is the boat?

This thread has more info and I posted a few photos.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/best-pl...ank-62856.html

Thanks for the responses.

Its coming away from the transom, looks like it's already been repaired at somepoint (guess it wasn't done well enough) it's also had an even worse repair on the small wooden section of floor (has several aluminum followed by a small fixed wooden panel, then two removable plywood panels). it's the small wooden panel that I was thinking of strapping the fuel tank to. This looks as if it's been reglued in just slightly the wrong position and is coming lose due to glue failure.

Boat is early 80's, if I remember correctly 83. It's the red and black, looked at a few posts on here (there's one that shows the joints etc) and everything points at glued hypalon rather than pvc. Bow cover is different colour underneath etc. Though as yet I've done none of the tests to check the material been too busy trying to get the outboard going ! (that appears to be all sorted now).

Boat fabric seems to be in really good condition, no leaks or significant wear, seams look good too.

Just a couple of bits of gluing needed and the baffles (I am tempted to leave these). Though sorting the baffles would be my ideal, like the thought of the project and hope to be able to keep the boat going for a while !

Peter_C · 09 July 2014, 19:17

Yes it is a hypalon boat. The year says it all. Got any pictures of the failing area? Hard to understand what you mean by glued to the front panel as on my later model boat the floor boards are all removable, and I only have one ply panel which is the very front one.

You may very well have to remove the transom and reglue the entire thing. It is common for a little bit of the wood to stick to the boat material, then peel the rest of the wooden transom away.

Post #8 shows a good example of the wood peeling away.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/zodiac-...elp-63300.html

SeanKent · 09 July 2014, 20:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peter_C

Yes it is a hypalon boat. The year says it all. Got any pictures of the failing area? Hard to understand what you mean by glued to the front panel as on my later model boat the floor boards are all removable, and I only have one ply panel which is the very front one.

You may very well have to remove the transom and reglue the entire thing. It is common for a little bit of the wood to stick to the boat material, then peel the rest of the wooden transom away.

Post #8 shows a good example of the wood peeling away.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/zodiac-...elp-63300.html

Think these are the best pictures I have available right now.

I think I'll be ok gluing these, can't see anywhere where the floor is coming away from the tubes, though the floor itself has ALOT of patches !

The baffles are the bit I'd like to do but am a little nervous of getting involved with !

SeanKent · 09 July 2014, 20:13

I am hoping that I'll manage to use it for the rest of the summer as is and then repair in the winter.

Peter C was it you I saw in a post about baffle repairs ?

Saw someone had posted their number and offered advice.

jyasaki · 10 July 2014, 03:44

Pete's in California. Hope you have unlimited international calling.

jky

Peter_C · 10 July 2014, 04:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeanKent

I am hoping that I'll manage to use it for the rest of the summer as is and then repair in the winter.

Peter C was it you I saw in a post about baffle repairs ?

Saw someone had posted their number and offered advice.

Nope not me, but I do have Skype! I would NEVER post my phone number on the web, as a bot would probably grab it.

As I have never done a baffle repair there isn't much advice I could offer, except go BIG! That is not a small job, but not a big one either. Just takes some guts to cut a big hole in your boat. Although with a hypalon you might be able to just take it apart? See I am clueless.

As to the repairs I would recommend getting them done before using the boat, since the damaged area will just grow bigger.

SeanKent · 10 July 2014, 08:41

Some pictures would probably be more useful, before and after a repair, if anyone has any ? Or a step by step guide, have searched but not found one so far.

captain · 14 July 2014, 11:46

Hi

I had a mark II CGT back in the early 80's and had the same problem with the material floor coming away from the transom. I had it professionally repaired and it was perfect from then until I sold it. As a previous poster said it would be best to get this repaired before use as I think it will spread.

Cheers
Pete