Newbie start guide (journey / diary) to inflatable boats

[Jimbolio]

No side stringers on the wood.
I believe it to be a replacement floor, think the original was ally, but this’ll be long lost as it’s nearly 30yrs old...
Also, hence the forthcoming fabri-cobble to replace, I reckon some lengths of angle on top with t-nuts under the wood should suffice and shouldn’t foul the fabric floor below.

New pressure gauge ordered today, not sure I trust the one on the itiwit, plus I can’t use it when away from the fag lighter in the van!

Once the bending is sorted, I’ll hopefully get the idle sorted and trim to suit.

Also taking on a little water, but think this is backfill from the drain plug, new one on order.

Love a challenge... my copilot is now looking at speedboats from today’s escapades, so some good has come of it!

[Fenlander]

Bolting wood on top of the floor will make it rigid but how about where the floor sides fit into the angle formed between the tubes and hull fabric. They should be a tight fit here so the floor is stretched across its width as well as length. Hence the use of stringers when new.

Also the profile of the stringers is triangular and slightly rounded where they fit to the boat so they do not rub... the edge of a bit of DIY ply may in time damage the boat fabric.

Stringers aren't that hard to have made to a near enough profile if you have a woodworking shop locally.

I've had them made from a round pole with a slot machined down one side to take the floor and they were OK.

[Fenlander]

Have a look at this thread and particularly where Blankton made a superb job of making his own from post #16.

http://www.rib.net/forum/f64/new-sib-owner-81313.html

[Jimbolio]

The floor plates are quite a tight fit as it is, but I’ll have a word with my joiner mate who owes me a beer.

Worst case it’ll be as per doodle, but hoping for the former... beer for scale.

[Jimbolio]

Ok, so joiner mate reckons it’ll be easy to make the removal hardwood stringers & I should see change from £100.

I’ve seen a few different styles for wooden and alluminium floors, so I guess the question is on length?

Do we...
1. Support A+B+C (there will only be about 3” supporting C before the floor tapers in)
2. Support A+B leaving C free to flex a bit?
3. Rebuild the floor to make a longer C a thus get more purchase into the stringer?

Cheers all for your input [emoji1303]

[Fenlander]

Here is an example of the floor in my first Zodiac.

You can see the small bow panel and first floor panel back are not held by the stringers so free to flex slightly independent of the main floor.

[Fenlander]

Here is an example of an old Avon floor. See again the smaller bow panel is not held by the stringers.

Whoever made your floor in 3 panels did so for simplicity but it may need to be 4 panels with the front most one smaller and free to flex.

[Fenlander]

Finally I found this in my photo files. It's the floor from a 3.1m Avon I owned. It was the tender style Rover and not as sporty as yours having a lower outboard HP rating so three floor panels would do with the front one able to flex.

What I can't find is a good photo of your actual boat model/size as personally I'd not want to pay someone to make stringers unless the floor design was as originally fitted. As of now it's not clear if it should be 3 or 4 panels. Hopefully someone will have a picture to confirm.

[Jimbolio]

You are a star Mr F.

[Fenlander]

No problem... somewhat sadly too much time at home allows a bit of searching. Anyway finally found a Typhoon 3.4 image... from a member who just posted a handful of times over 3yrs ago.

You can see the three alloy rear floor sections with the stringers keeping in line. Then as far as I can see there looks to be the board with the valve hole and I reckon I can just see the join line of a final small triangular board at the bow... what do you think?

[Jimbolio]

Thank you for sharing your finds and I appreciate you awesome knowledge and efforts.

For now, the stringers will be made to the length of the two rear sections.

This will allow the floor to be tested and if it proves ‘iffy or concertina-like’ we’ll be remaking the floor with a smaller front section and two larger rear sections to make up the difference.

I don’t feel that splitting the floor into four sections will make much structural difference but only allow for a smaller package to transport and store, so may be fickle about it...

If a new floor IS required, the new stringers can be slid forward into the new recessed floor footprint as per the zodiac pic quite easily.
The new stringer length for the two (possibly three) rear sections will still provide ample length to cover this based on the pics I’ve seen.

2nd outing with the new stringers/old floor combo is planned for this weekend, providing the woodsmith can squeeze me in.

Keep an eye on the news chaps [emoji51][emoji51][emoji51]

[Jimbolio]

Beautifully crafted, no?

[69cmw]

Originally Posted by Jimbolio

Beautifully crafted, no?
Attachment 130870

[emoji108]

[Fenlander]

Yep they look excellent.

[Jimbolio]

Today’s efforts, much to the the dismay of Mrs Jombio, cos housework, kids football practice, cleaning, summit else...

1. Cut existing floor to suit new ‘straight making wobble stoppers’ expertly crafted by my mate. Somehow I ended up buying him the beer he owes me. Existing floor was not on the square at all, but eventually got it sorted...
2. Prop tightened and marked, will check for slippage on next run.
3. On board panic box tidied up to contain only what I deem necessary - this may change... cos fickle.
4. Oil checked.
5. Van emptied & then loaded - work in progress *yawn*
6. Beer drunk cos getting there.

[Fenlander]

You're getting there. Just had a thought. Is there a reason you go to Barton Point? West Mersea is half the drive from Stansted and has many benefits for those starting out.

[Jimbolio]

Will check out Mersea for next launch.

For now, BP is a gentle Sunday morning drive, 20 mins away for copilot + an excuse for Sunday roast at ma & pa’s...

[Fenlander]

>>>roast at ma & pa’s..

Ahh that tips it!

[Locozodiac]

Originally Posted by Jimbolio

Beautifully crafted, no?
Attachment 130870

A full length side joiner is a zillion times better than a 2 piece side joiners, the floor won't experience the hinge effect achieved with traditional 4 piece side joiners specially on rough water cond. My previous Sibs were factory ordered with 2 single piece alum side joiners, regardless of their lenght, a factory special. Inflate that oldie well and have good fun along many cold ones..

Happy Boating