For all Zodiac experts out there - My first Zodiac SIB

cancruiser · 02 June 2019, 03:26

Long time lurker on the forum and finally bought a 310S Zodiac after looking for a reasonably priced one for a few months.

It was unbelievably dirty with scum and stains, but I knew the bones underneath are good. It took me today 5-6 hours to completely clean it and it came out very nice. After cleaning I applied a good coat of 3M Marine Vinyl restorer and also some Aerospace 303. Looks like new now. See some photos (the floor is not pictured)..

Now, for all Zodiac owners and experts out there, What are the (Please refer to the last photo):

1- The round 'mushroom" buttons located along the top of the pontoons
2- The are two rectangular plastic pieces on the floor right under the transom
3- The two black plugs (or covered holes) close to the top edge of the transom
4- The hole at the bottom edge of the metal mesh of the motor mount.

I had before a Hydroforce Marine Pro-II which was actually of good quality, and longer than the 310S, but I disliked the soft floor and no transom.

For this Zodiac, I have a 4 HP Evinrude which I think should push it O.K. I wish if I had a 6HP or 9.9HP but I'll keep my eyes open for one.

Thanks to all your valuable forum posts which helped me greatly choosing and inspecting the boat before buying it.

Mickhitchuk · 02 June 2019, 05:10

Hi,
Not sure about the number 1 near the transom but the ones on the front hold a splash cover/storage bag
Number 2 is for the air floor mounts,they slide in
Not sure about 3,might be for transom wheels
4 I think is for a safety line to secure to the outboard
Bit vague but hope that helps

cancruiser · 02 June 2019, 05:14

Thanks for the reply.

What is the "air floor mount"? It has a slatted wood floor. Can you explain please. This is my first boat with a floor, so I'm not quite familiar with their options/construction.
Thanks again

Mickhitchuk · 02 June 2019, 05:15

Sorry 310s i think is a hard floor, so number 2 is for the boards to sit under

cancruiser · 02 June 2019, 05:20

Makes sense.. Thank you kindly!

Mikefule · 02 June 2019, 05:49

1- The round 'mushroom" buttons located along the top of the pontoons
2- The are two rectangular plastic pieces on the floor right under the transom
3- The two black plugs (or covered holes) close to the top edge of the transom
4- The hole at the bottom edge of the metal mesh of the motor mount.

I have almost the same model: same size, but with one or two differences. For example, mine has a different bung/drain arrangement at the bottom centre of the transom. Mine has a lever which you can move across to open or close the drain hole.

That boat should have a 5 piece plywood floor and two aluminium side pieces that hold the rear 3 floor sections steady. Without the plywood floor, it will not be comfortable to use, and may not be safe. It certainly won't go at normal speed. Without the aluminium side pieces, there is a danger that the floor sections will spring out of place, especially at speed.

The mushrooms near the back on top of the tubes are designed for special fittings to hold the Zodiac oars in place when they are not in use. If you don't have the oars, the mushrooms will perform no useful function.

The two rectangular plastic pieces are there to hold the rear section of floor in place. You slide the rear section in under these tabs first, then the front 2, then add sections 3 and 4.

The two holes (3) are not part of the original design. They may have had some attachment such as being used to tow an inflatable toy. Ignore them.

The loop at the bottom of the motor mount is so you can attach a lanyard (or a cable lock) in case the motor comes loose. That way, you don't completely lose the motor.

cancruiser · 02 June 2019, 05:54

Thank you Mike. Well explained.
I do have the complete floor setup with the aluminium lock rails and the original oars.
I did clean them all today along with the boat. The floor was FILTHY!! but cleaned up nicely almost like new.

How do you like the 310S so far? What size motor do you have on it..
Thanks again

Mikefule · 02 June 2019, 07:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by cancruiser

Thank you Mike. Well explained.
I do have the complete floor setup with the aluminium lock rails and the original oars.
I did clean them all today along with the boat. The floor was FILTHY!! but cleaned up nicely almost like new.

How do you like the 310S so far? What size motor do you have on it..
Thanks again

I have a 9.9 hp 4 stroke. With this set up, the boat will plane with 2 adults and an anchor box etc.

It's my third inflatable, and the smallest I've owned. I bought brand new and it was expensive, but I can't fault the quality. We don't use it as much as I'd like, but I also have a sailing dinghy which takes up a lot of my boating time. The Zodiac 310 is good for 2 - 3 adults, and exploring narrow river channels and coves along the coast. It is a seaworthy boat although I preferred the larger diameter tubes on my previous boat.

The oars: there is a pin part way along the oar that snicks into a fitting on the top of the tube, about half way along. There's a little spring-loaded push tab to lock it in place. There should then be a fitting on the shaft of the oar, near to the blade end, which slides until it engages with the mushroom. Then the oars are safely stowed along the top of the tube, but ready to use. It's a good set up.

To fit the floor boards:
1) Slide the aft section under those 2 tabs on the transom. On mine, the aft section is easily recognised because there is a crescent cut out of it that goes near to the drain hole.

2) Put the front two boards in. Support the nose of the boat with your fuel tank. This induces the nose-up curve of the floor that is necessary. If you miss this stage, it can be tricky to get the nose sections to sit right.

3) Put sections 3 and 4 in, so that they make a "tent shape".

(Note that some boards have battens screwed to them. These battens go on top.)

4) Lean on the apex of the tent until the boards click into place.

5) Put an oar shaft under the side of the boat, parallel to the tube, so that it supports boards 3, 4 and 5.

6) Snick the aluminium stringer into place.

7) Do the other side.

8) Inflate the hull to full pressure.

9) Inflate the keel.

Inserting the boards is easier with the tubes about 3/4 inflated. You will learn from experience. Too much air and the boards won't go in; too little and the hull will be too floppy.

cancruiser · 03 June 2019, 02:14

Many thanks Mike for the detailed explanation. Quite helpful indeed, specially the oars setup. It came with the original oars, so I will go try this.
The only motor I have now is a 4HP Evinrude. It will push the boat, but no hope of planing. Usually, it will carry 2 adults and a child, but we are all on the skinny side, so I hope this motor will be able to putt along..
Thanks again

cancruiser · 03 June 2019, 06:19

Another question out of curiosity, I'm assuming this boat (310S) is made of PVC (saw the inside colour through the valve the same as the outside) Does it have welded or glued seams?

It is 2002 model, made in France (says Made in France on the name plate. I noticed other models say Made in EEC).

Thanks.

Mikefule · 04 June 2019, 18:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by cancruiser

The only motor I have now is a 4HP Evinrude. It will push the boat, but no hope of planing.

1 light adult, sitting well forward, on perfectly flat water, no headwind, and you might. I used to get a slightly larger boat up on a 3 hp, but only in perfect conditions (a narrow, straight, canalised section of river) and I was steering with my finger tips.