Elling KB350 setup and mods etc - Page 4

Fenlander · 08 May 2021, 20:54

>>>good idea to start a new post asking for advice from other members who may not be following this thread.

Good point given there's a world of SIBs and other small boats out there.

Fenlander · 08 May 2021, 21:11

Tomorrow was to be river shakedown day but not having transom wheels has messed that up. We did try carrying the boat between us at home and it's doable to a point but with lively pup around our feet and a rather unforgiving concrete surface at the marina slipway I really don't want to risk a serious tube scuff for the want of waiting a few days until the new wheels arrive.

I did take the opportunity to practice a re-pack single handed. I'm still going with my initial impression the tube material is less pliable than the Zodiac/Bombard type so I found it needed a bit more care to get down to size.

The Zodiac/Bombard bags like many others open out to a flat cross on the ground so you roll the boat on and pull up the sides in turn. The Elling bag is more like a flexy box with flap lids and has pre-defined corners... so you need to get the boat rolled within that size. Then easier than lifting the boat into bag is lifting upside down bag over boat then rolling over and pulling up the flap straps.

A slightly untidy first attempt but made the bag dimensions OK ending up with a pack 116cmx53cmx41cm. This compares to the Aerotec stated pack dimensions of 115x72x39 (which I could usually beat on width). So broadly the same width and height but a useful 19cm saved on the front to rear dimension.

Of course the Aerotec is packed with the floor in and the Ellings is separate to be put elsewhere but it takes up little space and can be pushed into a spare space.

Oldman2 · 08 May 2021, 21:23

Can you not return the "wrong" wheels under distance selling Fenlander or have you had them too long?

Fenlander · 08 May 2021, 21:28

Sadly no... I was so keen to get ahead on some items while waiting for the Elling I bought them over two months ago. I kept the box so an easy repack and post... I'll chuck them up here as a bargain when I get a moment.

Tel1965 · 09 May 2021, 04:29

Chipko, the shark pump came with a few spacers at different thicknesses, and eventually got a fairly good seal. Forgive my dumbness, but why would I maybe need to use those special adapters? It seems to inflate and deflate alright at the moment.
Fenlander, I like the gauge but is it really necessary? My pump has a display on it saying what the pressure is so I just assume that that is correct.
You’ve made a lovely job of packing it into the bag, I hope I can get mine as neat next time. Btw, I left the valves open and the caps off when I put it in the bag, is this ok to do or should I have replaced the caps?

PEveritt · 09 May 2021, 04:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Hi PE and welcome to the forum.

Much depends on your intended areas of operation river/sea/how challenging... the speeds you are looking for plane/displacement... budget for outboard... carry in the back of the car or on a trailer... if a daily setup can you carry heavier weights and so on.

For my use where I'm having to keep the weight down... two of us plus dog... want to set up daily from the back of the car... want a comfortable 15kts from a 10hp... enjoy something lively... well it's looking good so far.

David

Many thanks for the reply. Being new to all this we are not too sure of our use but it will I suspect be mixed, sea rivers and lakes. We live in Brighton and will be transporting the boat in its rolled up form in the back of the car. Me and my Partner weigh about 14 stone each and will of course take some kit etc so was wondering if a 10 hp engine would be OK. I see that Boatworld do a 9.8 hp that fits our budget (which is about £3,000 for boat, Engine and other bits).

Many thanks any help is appreciated as we don't want to make too expensive a mess up

chipko · 09 May 2021, 06:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tel1965

Chipko, the shark pump came with a few spacers at different thicknesses, and eventually got a fairly good seal. Forgive my dumbness, but why would I maybe need to use those special adapters? It seems to inflate and deflate alright at the moment.

If you’re getting a good seal with the shark adapter then great, no need to swap out. [emoji106]

The bayonet adapter with adjustable centre pin was suggested in response to Fenlander’s comment regarding his Bravo pump prematurely switching to low volume/high pressure mode...an adapter that depresses the inner valve open reduces back pressure and allows the pump to operate longer in low pressure mode...faster inflation/less stress on pump.

Agree, no need for a separate gauge if your 12v pump has one....although always good for a second opinion. Also depends if you’re going to carry the electric pump onboard. We tend to leave our expensive electric pumps on terra firma and always carry aboard a simple foot/hand pump (no inbuilt gauge) for topping up/emergency duties/monitoring pressures during the day etc.

Tel1965 · 09 May 2021, 07:00

Thanks chipko for that explanation, I understand it much better now. My intention would be to take the pump out to sea with us as there seems to be plenty of room in the boat for the two of us, however I do have an old 12v pump which is a lot smaller than the shark pump which I may decide later on is more suitable for on the boat, in which case I’ll buy the gauge.

Oldman2 · 09 May 2021, 07:41

Not wishing to send this thread off on a tangent, so I will just post a couple of links to why you may need a pressure gauge as well as a small pump with you when boating.

https://www.rib.net/forum/f45/air-te...ure-68338.html

https://www.nrs.com/learn/raft-overi...amage-from-sun

Tel1965 · 09 May 2021, 07:53

Excellent advice oldman2. I think I should get one. Hopefully fenlander will post a link as to the one he has bought when he knows that it has fitted properly.

Fenlander · 09 May 2021, 10:38

I just like to have an independent gauge to check the pressures at any time without getting the pump out. For example if we are on holiday with the boat inflated for two weeks I check each morning before we go out. And of course as Oldman2 links there is the hot sun pressure variation... a real problem pulled on a beach out of the water in anything over 30deg C.

Tel1965 · 09 May 2021, 11:21

ive just done another inflate, only took me 20 mins this time. while its up i thought i would try the wheels again. having moved the bracket down to the lower hole and re-attaching the springs inside i mounted them onto some scraps of mdf at the position in the instructions.i am not sure if you can see in the photos, but when the wheels are in the down position i get 5 inches of clearance to the underside of the sausage. i have lifted the bow of the boat above my head and the tubes still do not touch the floor. so in that respect i am quite happy. i know i will have to be very careful as to the ground i will be wheeling it on as the clearance is only 5 inches. by lowering the pivoting bracket to the lower hole it means that the bottom of the brackets are approx 30mm overhanging the transom. any ideas as to if it will cause me any problems?

Oldman2 · 09 May 2021, 11:35

My opinion Tel would be as you already hinted at, to get the legs extended some at work and move the fixing brackets up to not overhang the transom. The wheels when up would be above the transom top is the only downside. I am assuming this wont interfere with the folding in of the legs.

Tel1965 · 09 May 2021, 11:47

If I extended them 2 inches so that all of the bracket was on the transom then the wheels will still be under the top of the transom. If I extended by about 4 inches then the wheels would sit about an inch above the top of the transom. I’m ok about having the bottom of the bracket in the water, just wondering if it would cause me any problems?

chipko · 09 May 2021, 12:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tel1965

I’m ok about having the bottom of the bracket in the water, just wondering if it would cause me any problems?

Personally I’d be vary wary of having anything projecting lower than the transom as it will cause serious splashing. Appreciate this is not as critical on a cat as when fully planing bottom of transom will be clear of the water, but may still cause some splashing at marginal planing speeds/choppy water conditions.

I would also be avoiding any fixings through the transom anywhere near the floor zone. Any protrusions will quickly rub/puncture the hp floor.

Tel1965 · 09 May 2021, 13:17

i think i have it sussed. as you can see in the first photo the bracket sits 30mm below the transom. in the second photo i have put a bar into where the bolt originally fitted. i cant put the bar fully through because there is a spring inside the bar. if i were to make a spring clip or a bracket which would go over the bar and clip into the hole on both sides then this would keep the bracket from being 30mm under the transom and would secure the bracket in place. do you think this would work?

Fenlander · 09 May 2021, 13:18

I'd forgotten your wheels were those clever twisty-turny ones. I guess you're more motivated to keep them than me with my ill fitting standard type.

I too would be wary of anything like those brackets hanging below the transom. It's amazing what a fountain even a streamlines depth transducer can kick up.

Re their fixings being behind the air floor not ideal but sometimes needs must and I've done it several times in the past using either a shallow domed stainless coach bolt or a countersunk head bolt which is what I'll use if any part of my new wheels fixing needs to be behind the air floor.

Tel1965 · 09 May 2021, 13:24

David, the wheels come with dome nuts to be fitted inside the boat and also the counter head bolts. To be honest I’d love to keep them because they look so good and feel sturdy. Having made sure that nothing touches the floor when lifted from the bow I’m pretty confident that they will do what I need them to do. The only problem I see is if there is an obstacle in my way when wheeling the boat or if it’s very soft sand.

Tel1965 · 09 May 2021, 13:28

I also checked the height of the floor against the bottom fixing bolt. It would give me 15mm of clearance from the top of the air floor to the dome nut.

Fenlander · 09 May 2021, 13:39

If you can re-attach the spring OK so they work at the height in post #76 right hand image that should be OK. What will you use to space the legs out so they miss that small lip at the bottom of the transom?

If your fixings will be above the air floor in all circumstances then dome nuts OK.