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Old 13 July 2021, 16:25   #61
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Just pump them up until they are firm, they should deform some when the boats on them. I pumped mine with a bellows foot pump. They are only thin so just dont get carried away
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Old 13 July 2021, 18:53   #62
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Agreed just fill them a fraction above full volume. A bit of give helps the SIB stay on them.
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Old 13 July 2021, 20:54   #63
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Thanks both.
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:03   #64
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So after 3 emails and 3 followup phone calls I appear to have got somewhere re: Broken Transom Wheel Number 2!!!!!!!
Terry is sending me a transom wheel "leg" to replace the one that snapped.
Fingers crossed that this one lasts longer than the first one.
I do think from now on, I will only be moving the SIB on the transom wheels and moving the OB to the waters edge with the outboard trolley, and if we beach for lunch - well I've got my new beach rollers �� Not ideal I know, but, once bitten twice shy and all that.
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:29   #65
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Just might be rouge transom wheel leg. re lunch just keep her afloat at anchor Steve less hassle mate
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:35   #66
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I'm sure it's kind of crossed your mind that not feeling confident using the transom wheels with the OB on means they really aren't fit for purpose.
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:39   #67
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Just might be rouge transom wheel leg. re lunch just keep her afloat at anchor Steve less hassle mate
True, unless you're in South Wales. One day I had to move Redneck 5 times when we stopped at a beach for lunch. 8 mtr tide and so bloody fast!
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:42   #68
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True, unless you're in South Wales. One day I had to move Redneck 5 times when we stopped at a beach for lunch. 8 mtr tide and so bloody fast!
Rule of twelfths that’s tides for you
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:43   #69
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I'm sure it's kind of crossed your mind that not feeling confident using the transom wheels with the OB on means they really aren't fit for purpose.
Maybe

There is a very strong possibility that I may get a friend to re weld them and beef them up a bit.

It will be interesting to see how others get on with them.
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:45   #70
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Rule of twelfths that’s tides for you
Now I'm lost, and I've only had 1 bottle
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:50   #71
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Now I'm lost, and I've only had 1 bottle
Divide the tide height so you know how far out to anchor on a falling tide a flood tide is easy
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Old 21 July 2021, 20:56   #72
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So 8 mtr/12 x 100?= 66 mtr

Good job I got my bronze, knew swimming in pajamas would be useful one day
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Old 22 July 2021, 09:04   #73
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I'm sure it's kind of crossed your mind that not feeling confident using the transom wheels with the OB on means they really aren't fit for purpose.
Morning. Being completely new to this area I've been looking around at transom wheel setups where I see them and I'm of the general opinion that like the ones I have they are generally enormously overpriced, really borderline designs and Colin Chapmanesque use of materials.

Having done a sedate river launch and one gravel beach launch I can see that the wheel set up that I have is very weak and certain to fail.

The gauge of the metal is just too thin to give the strength between that the stub axle and the leg that is required for them to be considered robust. But the major weak point is the bracket. It hasn't been designed with usage in mind just designed to take a basic downward force.

There is a lot of twisting forces that will get applied in basic use. Not just when manoeuvring to line up on the slipway but the big risk that I spotted was from launching into a very modest swell where if the wheels were to touch the bottom while a swell was pushing the boat they wouldn't stand a chance.

The fact that the stub axle doesn't pass all the way through the leg and is double welded is shocking for the price. You can use very light metal but no one in their right mind would basically take tube that thin, knowing even the most basic load it's going to be taking and use a single butt weld.

And the bracket is far too short to be able to withstand the twisting forces of just basic manoeuvring on land let alone getting an accidental whack when launching. I'd say that the legs need to be longer and sitting in a longer bracket.

Given the inherent weaknesses I'm thinking that it will be important to try and run higher pressures in the tyres to keep the contact patch as small as possible, to avoid pivot turns and generally move the boat in as wide an arc as plausible and when launching in a swell to wade to the back as soon as the boat is in and take the wheels off to minimise the risk of them snagging on the bottom. They need nursing at all times.

Short of fabricating a suitable set I was wondering what could be done to beef up the existing design and my first though is to somehow drill accurately a hole on the leg, opposite the stub axle so that a 4 inch bolt that just fits inside the stub tube can be pushed through and held and be snug with just a skim of sikaflex to hold it firmly so that the load is spread and not being taken all on that single weld on thin gauge metal.

When I look at my wheels I do see an inevitable difficult end to a lovely day out.

There is a more expensive design of launch wheels that use a much more four square bracket where the wheels pivot up. Are these the Trem wheels being discussed? They look a much better design and more worth their £200 tag whereas I would say the fundamental issue with my type of set up is that it's not worth more than a few pounds and is extremely over priced for what they are.
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Old 22 July 2021, 10:41   #74
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Agree with all that TM... I hope my comment wasn't insulting to Steve it was more re the supplier just sending out another leg which I bet is made broadly the same as the failed one.

Many folks have many different transom wheel sets which may not meet your considerations but they find them OK... fair enough. However right from my earliest sibbing days I settled on just two transom wheel brands... OE Zodiac and Trem.

I look for a strong design with good height clearance for the OB skeg and a mount that spreads the load over as much of the transom as possible. Also if the flip type a mechanism that doesn't rely on removing any pins to rotate and if the "catch" is spring loaded it must be failsafe in the down posn so the leg can't jump put of that posn on bumpy ground. Finally I want the bracket/fixing that stays on the transom to have minimal impact or damage threat to the tubes when packing away.

Personally I don't like to keep the wheels on under way (weight/look) returning them to car/cottage after launch. So that makes the two Zodiac types best for me. On the recent Elling setup I fitted the lighter weight type (still heavier than many so called heavy duty types) at around £200. A foolproof lower bracket and single top bolt arrangement with the load spread over a decent amount of the transom. With the way they fit and the modest tyre size very easy to fit/remove on the water. As shown in first two images below.

On my Aerotec I have the set for the larger Zodiac boats. Much the same way of fitting and super strong. Only downside is the very large tyres are too buoyant and can be a devil to fit/remove in the water. Cost a stupid £300+ new but wait a month or two and there are usually some used somewhere. The easy solution to being over-buoyant is the famed yellow puncture proof wheels which have near neutral buoyancy. These heavier type legs as in latter two images.

Flip up type in next post.
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Old 22 July 2021, 10:53   #75
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Re the flip up type if that suits your needs better I only buy the Trem brand heavy duty ones. They fit with a fairly usual bracket... but importantly also have a bottom button like the Zodiac HD type so the load is spread. They have a 90deg bend to the bottom leg to become the axle so no weld needed and the tube has proved strong enough for this design. Again over-buoyant large tyres but same yellow remedy can be taken. Usually about £180.
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Old 22 July 2021, 12:11   #76
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Agree with all that TM... I hope my comment wasn't insulting to Steve it was more re the supplier just sending out another leg which I bet is made broadly the same as the failed one.
No insult at all David

I was hoping for a refund, but will have to make do with a replacement.
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Old 23 July 2021, 22:01   #77
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I was out with a friend tonight who I had hoped would be able to weld and reinforce the broken transom wheel leg! Some hope, he just laughed and asked where I got that cheap shit from! Said it couldn't possibly be re-welded as there is "flip!!! all thickness to weld"
Looks like it will have to be plan "B". Remove the 20mm tube axle and replace it with a M20 x 160mm set screw. At least if it's bolted in it will provide a bit more strength.
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Old 24 July 2021, 05:43   #78
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Can I suggest you whittle some hardwood down to the internal size of your legs, knock out the plastic plug from the axle end and tap in your timber strengthener until flush. Then drill through for a replacement axle, though my suggestion would be to have someone make you a pair of stub axles which are the correct diameter for your wheels and are internally threaded so you can drill through your reinforced legs and use a short bolt to connect stub to leg. Using your M20 x 160 set screw directly would work without crushing the leg box likewise but you will need to sleeve the M20 threads to say 25mm to stop the threads damaging the wheels.
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Old 24 July 2021, 07:18   #79
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I was out with a friend tonight who I had hoped would be able to weld and reinforce the broken transom wheel leg! Some hope, he just laughed and asked where I got that cheap shit from! Said it couldn't possibly be re-welded as there is "flip!!! all thickness to weld"
Looks like it will have to be plan "B". Remove the 20mm tube axle and replace it with a M20 x 160mm set screw. At least if it's bolted in it will provide a bit more strength.
If it were me, I'd braze weld as the failed weld has left enough surface area for that and it would still be as strong as the factory weld. But I would be looking to drill the other side of the leg so that a nice long and snug bolt can be pushed through to create a solid stub axle that is supported on both walls of the leg.

Chances are you just got a leg with a bad weld and you'll never have the issue again but for a little bit of faffing about for peace of mind it might be worth it.

When I first unpacked my wheels it was the first and only bit of Chinese manufacturing in all the boxes that screamed 'over priced' and 'under engineered' to me.

I'm going to be having a look at mine this week to find a simple solution to beefing up the stub axle.
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Old 24 July 2021, 07:25   #80
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Can I suggest you whittle some hardwood down to the internal size of your legs, knock out the plastic plug from the axle end and tap in your timber strengthener until flush. Then drill through for a replacement axle, though my suggestion would be to have someone make you a pair of stub axles which are the correct diameter for your wheels and are internally threaded so you can drill through your reinforced legs and use a short bolt to connect stub to leg. Using your M20 x 160 set screw directly would work without crushing the leg box likewise but you will need to sleeve the M20 threads to say 25mm to stop the threads damaging the wheels.
If they are the same as my wheels then the end of the leg is closed as if a washer has been welded to the end of the tube to seal it, otherwise I would think that would be the best solution.

A slug of something hard wood, nylon, Ali or steel pushed up and then drilled through to take a bolt that's long enough and thick enough to be the stub axle.

Also, is it my imagination or do I recall correctly from school that chroming can make metal brittle?
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