9.9hp 4-stroke or 15hp 2-stroke for Aerotec?

[samt]

Jerry, i think you messaged me about mine a few weeks ago through ebay. Still got, took it off sale as I had to use it on the avon.

It's not mint. But after £950

[Fenlander]

Surely that's what you need Jerry??

[Jerry]

Originally Posted by samt

Jerry, i think you messaged me about mine a few weeks ago through ebay. Still got, took it off sale as I had to use it on the avon.

Indeed. I thought it was gone.
Can you PM me your mobile please?

[Jerry]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Jerry take massive care with the seller of the black hood one

Thanks, I think I guessed this right then! To be honest if the engine is in a very good state, then it should be OK. What puts me off is the black hood.

Also beware if you were tempted by a 20hp... having an OB where you need help is OK in theory but there are many reasons at the setup/launch point and back at home when that help might not be available where you end up risking your back.

That's exactly why I'm super-careful with 20HP - to be honest it's your change from 20 down to 9.9 that got me thinking not to try to aim too heavy!

Hence us just having the 20hp a couple of years before sense prevailed.

That's why the logical choice for me (at the moment) is a 15 2-stoke. The only downside would be having to come back to the smell of burnt 2-stroke oil - not that it doesn't bring nice memories!

[whiskylee]

I replied to one of your previous posts I have a super clean Evinrude 15hp Short Shaft that I am selling as a package with a honwave, happy to split the engine would be looking for £900

[whiskylee]

[Max...]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Surely that's what you need Jerry??

+++1.

Just buy that off Sam and job done (once you add a 20mm batten ) - buying off a trusted fellow forum member is worth a lot in terms of peace of mind. Very fair price too on which you'll never lose a penny come sale time yourself.

[samt]

Originally Posted by Jerry

Indeed. I thought it was gone.
Can you PM me your mobile please?

Message sent.

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Jerry

On the Yam, I'm more unlucky - I'll be in the air when the bidding ends.

As a guide, a new Yamaha 15hp 2-stroke (commercial users only) is £2,239. With EBay you can bid before you leave and set a highest bid. With these sort of engines bidding is pretty manic in the last few minutes, so this can be advantageous if you want to win it.

It's currently a cool grand with 16 bids. Reckon it'll go for £1,250 to £1,400 tops. Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

[Jerry]

I don't bother bidding on eBay. If I want something then I'll put my one and only bid 5 seconds before the end. Anything else is just inflating the final price I may have to pay
You have a point about commercial 2 strokes. If a new one costs £2200 and a 15 years old costs 1400, why not go for the new one? Are these 'commercial' outboards similar to normal 2 strokes from 10 years ago?

[spartacus]

Originally Posted by Jerry

I don't bother bidding on eBay. If I want something then I'll put my one and only bid 5 seconds before the end. Anything else is just inflating the final price I may have to pay
You have a point about commercial 2 strokes. If a new one costs £2200 and a 15 years old costs 1400, why not go for the new one? Are these 'commercial' outboards similar to normal 2 strokes from 10 years ago?

The engines are exactly the same. You can't buy them though unless you can prove you're using it commercially, so company address, VAT registration, etc.

I know what you mean about bidding early, but in my experience it's easy to lose out towards the end of an auction when it all gets a bit daft. It's easily worth more than £1k, and chances are it'll sit at that price for the next couple of days. Don't worry about age. I sold a 1986 Yamaha 25hp 2-stroke a few years back for £500 strapped to a pallet. It's worth what folk will pay.

Work out a figure you'd be happy to pay and submit it. If you win, the great. If not - what have you lost? There's not many bargains to be had these days, engine wise. You pay your money and make your choice.

[beerbelly]

Originally Posted by spartacus

The engines are exactly the same. You can't buy them though unless you can prove you're using it commercially, so company address, VAT registration, etc.

I am thinking of adding a mobile scratch repair arm to my body shop for the local marina I have seen new tohatsu 9.9 would do nicely ( I cant be held responsible if I don't get any business )

[rik_elliott]

Tohatsu 2 stroke 18hp is an amazing engine for the aerotec. It's what I used on mine. Weight is the same as the 15, so very manageable. They don't come up all that often though.

[badbaws]

I have a 2006 2 stroke 15hp Mercury short shaft for sale for £995..

[Jerry]

Originally Posted by badbaws

I have a 2006 2 stroke 15hp Mercury short shaft for sale for £995..

No, you don't

One question to all Merc users: I burnt all the petrol by disconnecting the fuel line. Then, when I wanted to start it, it took ages - at least 15 pulls to start. The same happens with the engine both hot and cold.
What's the tried and tested way of priming it from dry, so it starts easily?

It took 1.5 squeeze of the fuel line bulb (and then the bulb went hard), I then pulled the primer 2x and proceeded to start. Clearly I'm not doing it correctly - this shouldn't take that many pulls.

When it already has petrol inside, starts with half-pull, both hot and cold.

[Fenlander]

That doesn't seem enough pumps of the bulb before it gets hard. I don't count but I reckon it takes several even if not run dry in every OB I've had. From dry I'd expect it to take 5 plus squeezes. Wonder if there is something stopping the fuel when you pump but allows it when the vacuum of the OB's own pump draws the fuel up??

Good OB choice. Very simple to work on so this will just be a glitch. The three I've had were often a first time start from cold and similarly hot.

Unrelated to the bulb but worth checking the primer is OK and delivering fuel.

[jeffstevens763@g]

yep i run mine dry it takes 7-8 pumps to get it solid but mine runs through a fuel seperator i would pump leave it a while then pump again you might have a constriction somewhere took me two seasons to prove my new bulb was allowing fuel to flow away from the engine because the non return valve was not positioned properly from the factory. check fuel hoses too

[Jerry]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Unrelated to the bulb but worth checking the primer is OK and delivering fuel.

I checked everything today. The bulb works well, the primer makes a noise that sounds like it should, I can see petrol going in the carb when I prime with the throttle open (throttle body open to see if petrol is getting in).

I think I might've been flooding it. Ran it dry today, then 2-3 squeezes of the bulb, single prime and it started without any shenanigans. I suspect I need to get used to this motor - for the last two years I had it easy, just put 90L of petrol in, then turn the ignition on (Mariner 90 4-stroke, never missed a beat and always started within one second!).

When testing in the bucket today, it backfired 2-3 times when I had the hood off, but seems to be working OK with the hood on.

I'll go to Overcote on Sunday, to give it a solid try and open the throttle up a little bit. If there's a backfire then this will go to GB Watersports on Monday morning for adjustments.

[minisponger]

I have recently bought a 15hp Johnson 2 stroke, and with two sizable adults, a full 25 litre fuel tank, all our fishing kit, drinks, food and everything else for the day we were a good chunk quicker than a friend on his own in a similar boat with a 10hp Yamaha.
The engine is a fair amount heavier and uses a bit more fuel, but I think it's well worth it for the extra performance. With just me I hit 25.3mph yesterday on some very flat water....