Wheel bearing failure poll

[Nos4r2]

I don't think they are the 'sealed for life' bearings. I've got exactly the same trailer but it has bearing buddies fitted. AFAIK they would be pointless on the 'sealed for life' bearings.

[jyasaki]

One thing I neglected to mention over the course of this conversation: IR temp gauges.

I make a habit of checking the trailer hub temperatures at each stop (usually for tow vehicle fuel). When properly adjusted, they seem to run in the 97 to 110 degree F range. Any increase means that something is amiss, causing friction, baking the grease, and most likely, signaling imminent bearing failure.

The device I use is from Radio Shack, but there are a ton of them out there:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Simply point the device at any exposed portion of the hub, press and release, and read the temp. Pretty simple, and takes about the same amount of time as walking around the trailer.

Interestingly, the tow vehicle hubs tend to run nearly 100 F warmer than the trailer hubs, I figure it's probably due to the disk brakes.

jky

[wavelength]

just towed hundreds of miles this week for training purposes for some security personnel, and luckily no probs but I do carry a big plastic box with wheel bearings jack etc etc in it and a BIG extendable wheel wrench cos them wheel nuts do get tight. Loadsa launching at a variety of slips from very shallow gradients (rope it back cos I never get the car wet)to incredibly steep ones (engage 4wd lo to get back up again !)and whilst we are infamous for our launching techniques on home ground there are lotsa slipways where keeping the wheelbearings out of the water is just not an option. Well not if you want to keep the gelcoat on the boat that is!

[Biggles]

Dave,

My situation is pretty much the same as you. I have to submerge my trailer most times to launch. No failures. Touch Wood. My road trip is 80 miles round trip. I honestly believe a lot of these problems occur because trailers just don't get used enough. If your using it once a week your soon going to know if you have seized brakes etc. However if you don't use it for 6 months during the winter its pretty likely its going to have problems.
The problem with any wheel bearing is if the trailer sits static for months on end. A little bit of pitting occurs where the weight is all put on one place for a long time.. Then when you start towing this causes a heat build up which leads to ultimate failure. And if it sits for ages the breaks will definately seize causing more heat problems.

NR.

[wavelength]

agreed when I had to store m'boat just by the slipway in a damp underground store the wheel bearing used to go all the time. A bit of a tow down the road regularly works wonders

[trailerman]

I repair trailers for a living. I have seen almost everything when it comes to trailers. When you use the Grease fittings Such As (Bearing buddys, EZ Lube, etc...) be carefull because you can blow out the seal in the back of the hub and that will allow water to enter the hub and rust the bearings. You can repalce bearings every 6 to 8 months when takeing a bath in salt water cheaper than replace the axle when the bearing welds it's self to the spinle. I am in the trailer repair business and I keep the bearings instock for most American trailers if you want to email me the numbers on your bearings I can tell you how much they go for here. I will assist any one who needs instructions on how to service there trailer properly.

[Limey Linda]

Does anyone recommend the use of waterproof grease ( white stuff)on trailer bearings.

[Chris]

I use the Johnson / evinude wheel bearing grease which is water proof grease. So far so good ( It has only been 6 months though)

Chris

[geoff]

I have given up with braked trailers after many problems with bearings and with brake shoes coming loose and jaming the brakes. I went and bought an American trailer with bunks, not rollers and no brakes. Fantastic piece of kit. The boat sits nice and low on the trailer and getting the boat off and on the trailer is a breeze. Getting the boat on is especially easy. When the sea is a bit rough you just drive it onto the bunks and clip on and thats it.
The only problem is that these trailers are illegal because they are 3cm too wide and you need brakes if the gross weight is more than 750kg. However since I am pulling the boat with a Discovery and the boat is kept only a mile from the slipway I am prepared to risk it. I had an American trailer on a previous boat which I towed all over the country with no problem and never had to touch the bearings.

[Hightower]

When I replaced the bearings on a trailer 3 years ago, I made some bearing savers and greased with "X-Tra Heavy Duty Wheel Bearing Grease" from Lucas oil products. This was sourced from my local indispension dealers and is green in colour.

I checked my bearings fequently but was amazed to see no corrosion at all. As some of you know, Kohaku was out of action for a year and no maintainance was done on the trailer, when I sold her earlier this year I inspected the bearings once more and again found them to be as good as the day I'd fitted them.

Now whether this is down to Savers or Grease or both I'll let you decide, but the guy in the trailer dealers that sold me that tub of grease, swears by it and said I could gowrong if I used it.

I would like to add that know where on the tub dose it say "waterproof" but it dose state it exceeds all Marine application requirments.

[Biggles]

My trailer repair man told me not to bother to keep topping up with grease via the grease nipple. (He might be after more business). He said just change the bearings every six months. I wish I could but I've got brakes so its a no go for me. I'll be getting him to change them every year from now on.
Whilst on the road with the trailer I always check the hubs for heat. If I notice any wheel getting abnormally warm it will be in for a checkout. And because of the mileage I do I have joined the breakdown company that was flagged on this forum and will recover your trailer.

Note to self. Must learn how to change bearings inside brake drums.

[Hightower]

Originally Posted by Biggles

Note to self. Must learn how to change bearings inside brake drums.

I have strip the brakes and fit a fresh water flushing system to the rear plate, will also make myself familiar with the mechanisms in there for future referance.

[rbw156]

I've recently been through an expensive and step learning curve following a wheel bearing failure on the M3, coupled later with a seized drawbar. Total costs for parts and recovery was around £800, plus many hours of blood, sweat, swearing and lost boating hours!

Basically, one wheel bearing failed on the M3 last year. My RAC membership included recovery of the trailer. However, this only covered the trailer if the fault was with the tow vehicle, not the trailer! This taught me to read the small print in more detail.

The rollers in the tapered bearing were ground to dust, the wheel rim too hot to touch and smoking. Total cost for this experience was approximately £300 for recovery and parts (bearing, hub and brakes).

My next experience was when I noticed that the brakes on my tow vehicle juddered slightly. The front discs and pads needed to be replaced at a low mileage due to excessive wear caused by the fact that the brakes on my trailer were not working because the drawbar had seized. I replaced the drawbar, two damping couplers, brakes (again) and brake cables at a cost of £300. The tow vehicle repairs cost £200.

Total cost for all repairs to a new trailer over 18 months is £800!!!!!

The trailer manufacturer was not sympathetic at all! His comment was "what do you expect when you launch the boat in water". The RIB manufacturer helped me obtain parts but refused to contribute to my costs.

My learnings:

• I replace my wheel bearings annually
• I check my wheel bearing mid-season - How to check wheel bearing
• I use waterproof grease (the green Lucas stuff)
• I've fitted bearing savers (these had to be turned down to fit my hubs)
• I check the temperature of my hubs when arriving at the slipway (if they feel hot, then this is a very strong indication of a problem) and before launch (to ensure they have cooled too avoid drawing air into the hub)
• Check and grease my drawbar regularly
• I use a slipway that avoids submerging the drawbar, even if this means paying to use a slipway!
• Change to a breakdown recovery service that covers trailer faults, not just "recovery of trailer" as they mean two different things. Check the small print in detail, but don't just skim it or rely on what the telephone sales person tells you.
• I always used to rinse the trailer with fresh water on my return home. In addition, I know flush the brakes and drawbar. If possible, I'll do this after launch and after recovery before returning home.

My advice - Simple, learn from my costly experiences!


Finally, this year I'm trying out dry boat storage at Southampton Dry Stack. Initial impressions are very positive. This avoids the need to get the trailer wet at all, is very convenient, but you pay for convenience! I'll let you know how it works out.

[Rogue Wave]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

.

If you're dunking it in salt water don't expect it to last-it's NOT GOING TO! It's the way it works. If you get salt on it it'll rust,score/break up and collapse.316 or A4 stainless isn't any good for bearings so unfortunately Fit for purpose=bollocks in this case.

Yeah , if you regard Salt water as A corrosive Acid then you can get a better grasp on how regularly you need to check your bearings.

There is a heating /expansion cooling/contraction cycle that affects the bearings. I.e Bearings get warm on the tow and the get plunge into much colde warmer. This also has the extra benefit of flushing out some of your warm grease.

I think you'll find the traser warranty covers the trailer for carrying a boat not for being an amphibious device.

The only good things about sealed bearings ar they are a lot easier to change on the roadside if they fail. Froviding you have an 2kg clubber, a jack some 3/4 sockets a spare bearing and load of othe stuff that might come in handy! Ohyeah and some disposable gloves

I too am a big fan of Bearing Buddies and taper bearings but mostly I like trailers that don't need to go in the water!

BTW Machine Mart sell a real cool tool ( I like real cool tools ) that is a slidehammer/Hub Puller for about 40 kwi. It makes getting the hubs off a doddle.

[Rogue Wave]

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

Yeah ,
BTW Machine Mart sell a real cool tool ( I like real cool tools ) that is a slidehammer/Hub Puller for about 40 kwi. It makes getting the hubs off a doddle.

As one of the forums leading gadget inspectors I expect your already on the wy too buy one. Next time you are down with your boat drop in and I'll show you how tyooservice your Bearings.

[Rogue Wave]

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

As one of the forums leading gadget inspectors I expect your already on the way to buy one. Next time you are down with your boat drop in and I'll show you how t oservice your bearings.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...mer-puller-set

[Biggles]

Stu,

If I knew what to do with it then I would buy one. Unfortunately that looks like something that might sit around on my garage shelving making my garage look like yours. Meow !!!!!

[Rogue Wave]

Originally Posted by Biggles

Stu,

Unfortunately that looks like something that might sit around on my garage shelving making my garage look like yours. Meow !!!!!

Do you mean Busy

[Biggles]

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

Do you mean Busy

Chuckle Chuckle.

[The Garfish]

Originally Posted by jwalker

You may have to be subtle, cunning, sly, wily, shrewd, crafty or even ingenious

orr orlturnativly yew cud jus pritend too bee a scoch gitt forr de daiy

gaRf