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Old 28 December 2015, 04:10   #1
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New replacement axle - what's best PCD ?

Merry Christmas all,

Should I go for same 4x5.5" PCD or is the 4x100mm a more common (modern) set up and rims more easily available ?

Thinking about getting new replacement axle for my Ind. roller coaster. Current single axle is rated 900kg (braked) with 4x5.5" PCD and 175/70x13 wheels.

Current wheels (rims and tyres) will get renewed as in fairly poor condition so no restrictions if new axle is different PCD.

Thanks for any opinions.
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Old 28 December 2015, 05:49   #2
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Probably depends what you want to do with it. For example I had my new trailer built with 5x165 M16 studs so I could put Land Rover 16" wheels on it and flotation tyres (it currently runs 255/70R16 AT's, but I can put bigger ones on).

Not sure which is most readily available out of the two you selected though. Why don't you just get an axle supplied with wheels and tyres? I would imagine that choosing a readily available tyre size is probably more important than the PCD.
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Old 28 December 2015, 07:29   #3
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Thanks.
Main towing would be on 60mph roads, launching almost definitely always from concrete slips both tidal and non-tidal.
Yes, I'll probably get the axle manufacturer to supply the new wheels at the same time, unless there extortionate, but was just thinking ahead to the time of having to replace a damaged wheel. Which, if it happens (here's hoping it doesn't), will hopefully be before having to renew the axle again.
From my simple web searching it would seem that both PCD's on rims are readily available just now. Just wondered if metric was slowly replacing imperial (in the UK !) so just trying to future proof before spending 100's.
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Old 28 December 2015, 12:17   #4
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Try "Peak Dynamics" They make the axles for a few of the major trailer manufacturers.
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Old 28 December 2015, 13:37   #5
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I'd go with a 4 x 4.5 or a 5 x 4.5 pattern as this is what most hubs are nowadays. Which of course means most wheels are as well. (At least on the left side of the pond. My trailer is overbuilt, and uses 6 x 5.5")

If you're not looking at a all-in-one supplier (tires, hubs, bearings, and axle), start by choosing what PCD you want to use, and select an axle with spindles to match the hubs and bearings you need. Or look for an axle with replaceable spindles.

jky
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Old 28 December 2015, 18:04   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Last Tango View Post
Try "Peak Dynamics" They make the axles for a few of the major trailer manufacturers.

Thanks, hadn't heard of them. I think I'd read somewhere, probably here, that Meredith and Eyre were another axle manufacturer for some of the 'big' trailer companies. Will probably get in touch with them both for some advice / cost once everyone's back from the festive holidays.
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Old 28 December 2015, 18:10   #7
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Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
I'd go with a 4 x 4.5 or a 5 x 4.5 pattern as this is what most hubs are nowadays. Which of course means most wheels are as well. (At least on the left side of the pond. My trailer is overbuilt, and uses 6 x 5.5")

If you're not looking at a all-in-one supplier (tires, hubs, bearings, and axle), start by choosing what PCD you want to use, and select an axle with spindles to match the hubs and bearings you need. Or look for an axle with replaceable spindles.

jky

Cheers for reply.

'Or look for an axle with replaceable spindles.'
Yeah, guess it'll all come down to cost.
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Old 29 December 2015, 04:16   #8
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You may find that your weight requirement may be a consideration for you.

4 x 5.5" PCD and therefore wheels etc, will be rated to a higher capacity than a 4 x 100mm PCD.

Also, 4 x 5.5" is more common than 4 x 100mm and certainly imperial PCD measurements, on UK trailers, are not becoming obsolete. They certainly haven't changed in the 20yrs I've been in the industry.

All the best.
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Old 29 December 2015, 05:08   #9
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Ok, great, appreciate the advice about weight. Current axle is rated 900kg but I've always thought that I must be pretty close to the trailer's net capacity.

I was going to go for a 1300kg replacement axle which hopefully will give me closer to 1000kg capacity, which will be plenty with my current rig and still allow for a newer heavier outboard, etc. So 4x5.5" hubs would seem the best bet.

I'm presuming it's ok to slightly uprate the axle, although I doubt I'll ever get anywhere near limits with my current rig ? And that the trailer frame will still be suitably strong to support it (which it does just fine at the moment) ? Even I did change change the outboard it'd only add an extra 40kg ish onto the overall weight.

Thanks again.
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Old 29 December 2015, 07:26   #10
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Yes, it'll be fine and is quite a common practice.

If you go for an aftermarket / different manufacturers axle, bear in mind that it will likely have a different mounting configuration.

Your original axle has long arms, which attach to the chassis with six u-bolts. A non OE will likely have two M12 bolts, per side, to hold it on. Therefore you'll have to drill your chassis. Also, you'll have to ensure you get the measurements spot on. Even 15mm out and you'll find you're nearly drilling through the side of a chassis rail.

Not trying to worry you, just ensuring you take your time and consider your options. I've done it dozens and dozens of times, so it's all feasible. You just have to be accurate.

An alternative to OE (because I know Indespension are expensive for their parts) would be Extreme Marine. They manufacture in the UK and based their trailers on the original Indespension Roller Coaster chassis, ergo the dimensions are the same. They use Alko axles (the best in my opinion), have them on the shelf and are usually considerably cheaper than Indespension. Take a few measurements and flick them an email. Also their axle will also have the same longitudinal arms, so you can u-bolt back on, rather than drilling.

All the best.
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Old 29 December 2015, 08:10   #11
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Excellent advice and info. Very much appreciated. Top man.

All the best for the New Year.
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Old 29 December 2015, 09:09   #12
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No problem at all. All the best to you and yours.
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Old 03 January 2016, 17:31   #13
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hi ,just a couple of quick points , if you don't go for an axle with the u bolt mounting ,you will have no ability to move the axle forward or back if you change engine or boat layout ,which gives you a noseweight headache ,this can also be a pain when manually pushing the boat and trailer about , also if you start drilling holes in your galvanised it will just encourage rust !! , check the indespension website they seem to be offering 1300kg off the shelf for about 400 poss less 10% ,and having been down this road in may myself when I phoned them they had a few "clearance " items if I remember rightly , good luck
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Old 05 January 2016, 17:55   #14
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Yep, all noted, ta. Saw the Indespension axle 'sale', certainly wouldn't like to pay full price ! 😳
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Old 25 January 2016, 08:15   #15
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Another wee thought - do you have any other trailers?

I am looking at re - hubbing my (unbraked) box trailer to take the same wheels / hubs as the (braked) rib (I specified 10" hubs for the RIb - yes the higher load rated tyres are slightly more expensive, but les so than removing bits of A- frame every time I put it in the garage! - & also makes launch so much easier as it normally floats off before the car is anywhere near the brine.....but I digress)

The box trailer has oldschool Mini Hubs & rims. Was great 20 years ago, but the rims are getting harder to come by and the current ones are slowly rotting (as was the way with a lot of BMC's output! ) As the suspension units are stiffening up, I am planning on replacing the whole shebang, so that I don't need to worry about which spare bearing set I just picked up for that jounrey...... and also give more flexibility with spare wheels and replacing tyres should I get a puncture......
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Old 25 January 2016, 18:13   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
Another wee thought - do you have any other trailers?

I am looking at re - hubbing my (unbraked) box trailer to take the same wheels / hubs as the (braked) rib (I specified 10" hubs for the RIb - yes the higher load rated tyres are slightly more expensive, but les so than removing bits of A- frame every time I put it in the garage! - & also makes launch so much easier as it normally floats off before the car is anywhere near the brine.....but I digress)

The box trailer has oldschool Mini Hubs & rims. Was great 20 years ago, but the rims are getting harder to come by and the current ones are slowly rotting (as was the way with a lot of BMC's output! ) As the suspension units are stiffening up, I am planning on replacing the whole shebang, so that I don't need to worry about which spare bearing set I just picked up for that jounrey...... and also give more flexibility with spare wheels and replacing tyres should I get a puncture......

Thankfully I only have the one trailer to worry about !
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Old 25 January 2016, 18:14   #17
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New axle now bought and delivered. Next problem is ........ see new thread !!!
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