How to replace trailer hitch

Into The Blue · 08 January 2012, 07:38

Some days you just wonder why you have a boat.

Yesterday THe triple lock on the hitch failed to unlock, had to drill it out yesterday to get the trailer off the tow ball. Now I've got a non functioning trailer and a boat I can't tow.

I can see the replacement hitch on the indiespension website for around £80 which is steep but ok. The question is how to get the old one off?

Looks like it is fitted with security bolts where the nut shears off when the bolt is originally put in place. All very sensible and secure but a PITA if you need to replace it.
My only solution at the moment is to cut the thing off with a 9" grinder and hope I don't cut anything important but that seems a bit cavalier and prone to failure and more expense.
Any know anything better?
Cheers
ItB

mick · 08 January 2012, 07:53

Can you drive a smaller socket on the bolt or if you have a good sharp chisel you may split the nut.

Festinghouse · 08 January 2012, 08:20

go to a small independant trailer place - i do and i get indespension parts through them at a fraction of the price that indespension sell to the public. they will also advise you the best way to get the old hitch off.

Into The Blue · 08 January 2012, 08:35

Thank you both. Time has come to get out a big hammer and see what happens.

mick · 08 January 2012, 08:38

As far as I know the front bolt will just go through the tube and the back bolt will have the over run ram attached to it if you do a search you will find an exploded drawing which will give you a better idea.

Trailer Guy · 08 January 2012, 16:30

^^^ Discomick's correct. The front bolt just secures the coupling head to the drawbar tube and the rear bolt does the same, but also secures the the damper in place (inside the drawbar tube).

Most expedient way is to use a 4" grinder, with a thin (1mm) disc and cut the top off the two caps. Take you 15 seconds per cap. This will allow access to the M12 bolt. Use two 19mm sockets (on 3/8" or 1/2" ratchets - or a combination of both

) and undo as normal. You may need to 'assist' the bolt out by knocking it with a hammer and drift.

The damper will then push forward, once you've removed the bolt. This is normal. When you put the new head on you'll need to line this up (with a screwdriver or similar) and hold it in position, before pushing the rear retaining bolt through from the other side.

PS. You could always not remove the head..... and just drill right the way through the coupling head (and handle), where the original lock was and put a nice heavy, long shank padlock through it. You could get a lot of nice, heavy long shank padlocks for £80...

Into The Blue · 08 January 2012, 18:47

again, thank you all