How to Properly trailer a SIB

[themarkjohn]

hi there. just bought my first boat. a 14ft zodiac futura mk3 with a 50hp yamaha 4 stroke. I am concerned about how its been trailered and so im posting here to ask you guys to check out my setup. when i got the boat the previous owner didnt have the hand crank far enough forward to allow the transom to sit fully on the bunks. yestterday i moved it forward while i had the boat in the water and now the transom sits fully on the bunks by a couple of inches. anyhow here are some pics

in this pic you can see how there is a bit of a gap between the bunk and the boat

here you can see the starboard trimtab and the transome resting fully on the bunk

port side trim tab

a bit more of an under view of the port trim tab. you can also see a big ripple in the fabric right before the transom.

here is a rear view of the boat. the motor travels in the fully down position. i mainly travel on highways and decent roads, not out on gravel bumpy roads. it has a good amount of clearance it seems. is travelling with it fully down reccomended or could i raise it up a bit to add to clearance without damaging anything?

[themarkjohn]

here is a pic of the bow clip. here i am worried about the metal ring having too much strain on it and ripping off.because of the inflated transom kind of pushes the bow up. the majority of the wieght of the boat is at the transom because of the motor, and it sits completely on the bunk so i guess im concerned about a bit of bouncing dowing damage.

you can see the gap between the boat and the bunk

ok so here is an underneath picture. you can see there is support for the keel and some short bunks further back. they are about 4ft long. is it a problem that these are not under the main tubes? i dont think there is much weight on these shorter ones because the transom rests on them and the keel is fully supported. but would like to hear opinions.

another pic from underneath but further down

again underneath

[themarkjohn]

underneath again

close up of the bow clip. am i using it right? why is there a wide part and a pointed part?



so thats the boat and those are my concerns. any help at all from somebody more knowledgable on these things would be great. still figuring out the whole thing. im horrible at reversing with the trailer but luckily i got to places not many people are there to laugh at me. except my driveway. its pretty embarrassing backing it into the driveway. thanks guys and i look forward to your replies!

[Peter_C]

Nice boat!

I am not an expert, and our boats are built completely differently, with mine having the speed tubes under the main tubes, but that does not look proper to me. You definitely want the transom supported, which you have. If it were me, I would look to support the main tubes. There should be a roller or the like under the bow of the boat where it would touch when beaching. The forward part of the trailer with the hand crank should make contact with the boat. I add in two more tie downs in the front to hold the front of the boat down, but they are only under light tension and the tension falls off when I let the air out for storage. Always make sure to release pressure on the bow deal, as I figured out the hard way what happens with heat, glue, and constant pulling. It needed to be reglued anyhow.

Learning from other peoples mistakes, I am also a strong believer in tying the stern down. I used to tow like you do with the motor straight up and down and it never once hit anything. I got away from it to save wear and tear on the boat since I bought a new in box transom saver for $15, then modified it to fit my application. Now at least half the engine weight is on the trailer. Another reason to tie the stern down. Oh and when I did tow with the motor upright I always put a bungee cord holding the tiller in place, although your steering setup may not flop around like a tiller does.

I searched for pictures on my computer of your boat on a trailer and couldn't find anything.

[themarkjohn]

i've tried to get the bow to rest on that front pad but i can only do it if i deflate the keel. as for the main tubes, i knew that was coming and am going to have to figure out how to do it. same for the transom saver. now the transom saver, it looks like these would be so the motor could sit in a tilted position while transporting? the motor sits in a tilted position and transfers some of the weight to the trailer and prevents it from bouncing correct?

[Starovich]

Trailers are a one stop shop most are generic across many boats, as such they are not alleys adjusted correctly. If you are unhappy with the position of the bow post, you can loosen the bolts and ,

[chriswood]

Hi there. I have had a similar issue and spent a lot of time looking at different trailers for my 3.8 HD SIB with 30hp. As with many SIBers got fed up with inflating, deflating etc so decided to buy a trailer and keep it in garage. Due to weight on transom etc i invested in a de graff trailer with bunks so most of the boats weight is supported by the tubes. Also have a transom support to take the weight of the transom and engine etc. this is were most of the weight is so you have done the right thing by making sure you have this properly supported. To be honest on my set up very little support is provided direct to the keel as it's just in effect material covering a small inflated tube (inflated keel). In my opinion the keel is not structural - it's mainly the floor and the tubes. I would be concerned how much support is being given to the boat via the keel supports as shown in your picture. Certainly on my boat I would be concerned that type of set up would possibly damage the keel material. How long has the guy you purchased it from had it on this set up and is there any damage? If he's been regularly trailering it around like that and there's no damage then obviously it's getting the support it needs.

With regards to the the bow ring mine in attached very similar to yours but I also run straps from the front towing rings to the base of the winch post. Angle is just slight enough not to put too much vertical strain on the rings. This helps to take the strain off the bow ring. I also run a strap off the transom towing eyes to the trailer to keep the back end secure..

If you are very concerned about the trailer may be worth selling it and using the cash to buy a bunked trailer as it's a nice boat

[Peter_C]

Originally Posted by chriswood

With regards to the the bow ring mine in attached very similar to yours but I also run straps from the front towing rings to the base of the winch post. Angle is just slight enough not to put too much vertical strain on the rings. This helps to take the strain off the bow ring. I also run a strap off the transom towing eyes to the trailer to keep the back end secure..

That is how I too tie my boat down as a basic description.

On the front pull I use the little triangle to winch off of, and when anchoring there is a rope from the side D-rings that passes through the larger portion of the front handle that the anchor line then attaches too. That way if one D-ring rips off the boat, I still have the other side holding and most likely the front as the D-ring can pass thru, so there are three points of contact when anchoring. The OP has the nice bow roller and cleat on the front of his though.

Originally Posted by chriswood

If you are very concerned about the trailer may be worth selling it and using the cash to buy a bunked trailer as it's a nice boat

Nothing wrong with the trailer and it is a bunked trailer setup. I checked the specs and it is very similar to my Pacific trailer. It just needs a few adjustments. It even has the nice side rail guides to drive straight on

[chriswood]

Fair point and agree it is a bunked trailer and not a roller but what I should have said is 'a bunked trailer that's supporting the tubes'. As you say though the trailer spec is fine and the guy he bought it from will have been using set up with no damage so it's obviously ok with that boat. Just always led to believe that a Sib needs support along the base of tubes.

[Max...]

I'd definitely want to rig some support for the tubes, you don't want any load on the fabric floor.

And some lightweight ratchet/tension straps over the tubes and under the trailer.

[jyasaki]

Looks like you need to move the winch post back a bit.

The side "bunks" are guide rails to keep the boat from slewing sideways when recovering in wind or current. They don't need to touch the tubes.

IMO, the support bunks should support the tubes where the floor material joins. That's where the deck pieces hit the floor material, so you are supporting what structure you have rather than stretching the floor material.

jky

[Boatnomad]

Yes,needs some more support.Picture below is not mine but seems a nice setup.

[spartacus]

Lift the engine slightly. The skeg or prop are likely to be damaged trailing it in the down position. You can use a transom saver (meant to be fairly common state-side).

[themarkjohn]

Im going to look into the whole situation tonight when I get home and see what I can come up with to support the tubes. I have an idea that involves using rigid electrical metallic tubing bent up and over thewheel wells and then covered with a pool noodle for padding. More straps seem like a good idea as well. The bow ring really stumps me though. Dont quite onow what to do with that.

[jyasaki]

Try running the line through the winch post and pulling the boat against the bunk. The pointed part of the handle will run up against the bottom of the bunk as a stop indication, and the bow will be supported by the bunk.

jky

[Peter_C]

Originally Posted by themarkjohn

I have an idea that involves using rigid electrical metallic tubing bent up and over the wheel wells and then covered with a pool noodle for padding.

Personally I don't like the idea of tubing and pool noodles. I do like the idea of carpeted bunks under the tubes. The bunks themselves are just pressure treated lumber. You could probably make some stanchions to hold the bunks up with just a hacksaw and some aluminum. Utilizing U-bolts on the frame and lag bolts into the wood. These boats are pretty light.

My boat does not have the tubes themselves directly supported, as the speed tubes are right under the main tubes. My bunks are right up against the tubes though and support them pretty well. Most important is the transom.

Here are a few pics that might give you a little insight of my boat trailer setup and another one I found online showing the black Zodiac with the bunks under the main tubes.

[Northern Pike]

Here's mine. Same boat and HP, but a little older.
The flat part of the bow handle is for your hand. The pointy part is to attach a line.
I use the 2 side D rings to tie down to the trailer, and also to attach my anchor line.
I use the centre bow fitting for a pulling handle when landing, and for a bow mooring line.